All your problems are fairly easy to fix. My suggestion to you is to send the dog out if you don't have the time to join a VHDF or NAVHDA group. You need someone hands on to show you what to do.

Griff

 

All your problems are fairly easy to fix. My suggestion to you is to send the dog out if you don't have the time to join a VHDF or NAVHDA group. You need someone hands on to show you what to do.

Griff

Yep.

 

It sounds to me like the source of most of your issues is that your dog isn't fully "whoa" broke/trained. Yard training may be firmly imprinted but that training often doesn't translate to the field without using incremental stages. I start with whoa training in the house over food and by the door when letting them outside. I then, with a check cord move to the yard until I can get across the yard away from the dog & then get the dog to come & whoa all the way back to me. Once that's mastered I move to heel/whoa while on walks until I can drop the check cord & walk 50 yds away & get the dog to come & whoa all the way back to me. I then move to a park & repeat the same things until they have mastered the come & whoa commands, & I can pretty much get them to stop on a dime while coming back to me. I then move to the field and repeat the same exercise in a non hunting scenario. Now all this can be done while still doing some hunts with your dog but that's done with a willingness to accept imperfections.

It's only when a dog is fully whoa trained that you can effectively move on to dealing with retrieving issues through training. In the meantime I would do fun retrieving exercises in the yard with a non toy item.

With a dog that wants to bust/catch birds I have found pigeons in remote pop up traps to be a quick cure for this issue but caution must be used to insure that the trap is never released so that it pops in the dog's face..... potential BIG problems! If you don't have access to them pm me and we might could arrange to spend a few hours together. Another method used is, with a check cord flip the dog over on their back when they try to take birds out.... not fun for the dog & they learn pretty quick to stand by just a slight rope tug. This then can translate to exercises without check cord. As well, here is an article that you may find interesting that suggests a method that I've used with adaption that suggests a combined method for two of your issues:
http://www.gundogbreeders.com/dog-training/bird-dog-training/bucketsforbirddogs.html

Most importantly.... don't get frustrated with your dog. Be consistent. Have fun.

 

It sounds to me like the source of most of your issues is that your dog isn't fully "whoa" broke/trained. Yard training may be firmly imprinted but that training often doesn't translate to the field without using incremental stages. I start with whoa training in the house over food and by the door when letting them outside. I then, with a check cord move to the yard until I can get across the yard away from the dog & then get the dog to come & whoa all the way back to me. Once that's mastered I move to heel/whoa while on walks until I can drop the check cord & walk 50 yds away & get the dog to come & whoa all the way back to me. I then move to a park & repeat the same things until they have mastered the come & whoa commands, & I can pretty much get them to stop on a dime while coming back to me. I then move to the field and repeat the same exercise in a non hunting scenario. Now all this can be done while still doing some hunts with your dog but that's done with a willingness to accept imperfections.

It's only when a dog is fully whoa trained that you can effectively move on to dealing with retrieving issues through training. In the meantime I would do fun retrieving exercises in the yard with a non toy item.

With a dog that wants to bust/catch birds I have found pigeons in remote pop up traps to be a quick cure for this issue but caution must be used to insure that the trap is never released so that it pops in the dog's face..... potential BIG problems! If you don't have access to them pm me and we might could arrange to spend a few hours together. Another method used is, with a check cord flip the dog over on their back when they try to take birds out.... not fun for the dog & they learn pretty quick to stand by just a slight rope tug. This then can translate to exercises without check cord. As well, here is an article that you may find interesting that suggests a method that I've used with adaption that suggests a combined method for two of your issues:
http://www.gundogbreeders.com/dog-training/bird-dog-training/bucketsforbirddogs.html

Most importantly.... don't get frustrated with your dog. Be consistent. Have fun.

Thanks for the information. I always make him whoa for food, every night.......mostly because he likes to knock the bowl out of my hand! I work with him in the yard, and he does well, but it seems like he is having a hard time transitioning into the woods.

I have a launcher, but it's funny because he has absolutely no interest in the bird while it is in the launcher, (chukars) once the bird is out you can't get him away. He will find the bird in the launcher, sniff for a second and move on. I think I may be expecting too much......since I'm a beginner I get stressed at the fact that I have pressure on myself to turn him into a great bird dog. I don't want to mess up, and he is almost a year old so I don't want it to be too late.

 

"Train your dog, birds will come"

dogs that eat birds usually have some other issues to be concerned with
generally i look at the dogs background pedigree if not then it his enviroment.
Though some training has taken place and dog does not seemed to respond when hunting,... training and or proofing has been faulty or scattered.
And please donot put the shock collar on him it is not a cure all
especially if the dogs basics are out of balance
if a training class one on one with a Pro. doesn't fit your schedule then if you really want the dog fixed you need to send him out to a Pro for fixing.
Normally most folks will not do this until they are sick and tired of being sick and tired.

 

"Train your dog, birds will come"

dogs that eat birds usually have some other issues to be concerned with
generally i look at the dogs background pedigree if not then it his enviroment.
Though some training has taken place and dog does not seemed to respond when hunting,... training and or proofing has been faulty or scattered.
And please donot put the shock collar on him it is not a cure all
especially if the dogs basics are out of balance
if a training class one on one with a Pro. doesn't fit your schedule then if you really want the dog fixed you need to send him out to a Pro for fixing.
Normally most folks will not do this until they are sick and tired of being sick and tired.

Well we are talking about a drahthaar, so I think that is breeding is fine. He is a beloved house dog who spends time outside as well, so I think his environment is fine.

Could anyone reccomend a trainer??

 

As one that has had a hand full of DD's your dog needs to be finished out in the training. As for trainers we have many good ones here in michigan and on this board any one of them would be great but as I walked through Modaka Kennel tonight there was 3 DD's that he is training and has worked mine. Good luck and not to be a a## not all DD's are well bred
Nick
Posted via Mobile Device

 

Well we are talking about a drahthaar, so I think that is breeding is fine. He is a beloved house dog who spends time outside as well, so I think his environment is fine.

Could anyone reccomend a trainer??

Training dogs is not an exact science. Though behavorists can develop models that will lead to conclusions based on stimuli and response... many times in the course of development much detective work is needed to identfy the core issue of unwanted behavior i.e. eating birds. Dogs will develop as total of the sum parts, they cannot verbalize where it "hurts" we only have their actions and behavior to guide us.

The questions I pose are not to develop hostilities. Ok
Does your dog come from a breeder that also trains at elevated levels?
If so this really an issue for him/her and you to deal with together.
If your breeder does not train at a level then chances are they would not have a clue as to how help either, and that is why you went to public forum for help
When you say "you the breeding background of your pup is fine"
How far back do you have 1st hand experience Sire, Dam, Grand sires and Grand Dams? in the dogs background how many dogs have titled at the advanced levels. Utility VVD, Understanding that NA does not really test a dogs ability or talent to handle stress and pressure. NA / Natural ability only gives us a clue as to what the dog is made of and should further training development be made. Training is the activity that "tempers' a dog like fire tempers steel. Sounds harsh, however that is just the way it is.
I could not possible comment on enviroment though i could from some 30 years of training others, ask many questions ,but decline at this juncture
It is through the development of bloodlines that breeders should be testing and training at high levels their stock to find what their dogs bloodlines are really made of.

Natural abilty, Junior Hunter Or Started Retriever titles should not be constued as a license to breed. At best they are indicators as to whether or not more time and money should be spent on advanced development

 

I agree a trainer is needed. My DD also has a difficult time staying still duck hunting and has periods of hardmouth. I read an interesting article that says dont let them retrieve until its corrected. Then its just a matter of whoa training that you may be able to do.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. My breeder is a trainer as well, and I suppose I am going to have to get with him. He lives 3 hours from me, and it is hard to find the time. I know that it is my responsibiliy to find the time to properly train him even if that means boarding him.

 

I am purchasing a dog from Hunters Rose Kennel in Dundee, Mi (which should be closer than 3 hours). They specialize in Pointing Labs - but I think they do training on other breeds - and the owner, Dale, is known as a top notch trainer.

He has basic training programs on his web site that seem reasonable to me - in terms of cost and commitment - to achieve various proficiency levels. Your dog is not a pup, so may not fit automatically into a standard program - but I would suggest you look up his web site, and send him an email.

I am absolutely planning on enrolling my pup in his training program - which entails leaving the dog for about 4 weeks - then going down on weekends to participate and learn as I able. This will be my first pointing dog, and I want to observe and learn so I can continue to grow the dog on my own too.

 

u need to first teach the dog how to hunt birds and hold point for you to flush birds. then force break the dog to retrieve.

trying to do both at the same time doesn't work well


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