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Copper is not anything magical and anyone who says it is is full of it.. It is all about getting to the depth of the fish. Use to be talk about it giving off electrical currents and whatnot attracting fish but it's all wivestales and can't be proven. WS is so much more user friendly and more forgiving than copper, I catch more fish on it because I run it more than copper because it was such a PITA..
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
So does copper have to be fished all the way out everytime to the same length?
Reason I'm asking is I been watching vids about how to spool up and looks like everyone uses a section of mono between the copper and the backing. The guy in the video said he uses the mono section for the planner board to hook to. So if I'm understanding this if I set up a 300' copper rig I have to always use it to fish the same 300' long depth range?
Is this the same for WS?
 
I love copper. This would be my favorite setup on a convector CV 45 or CV 55 reel:
300 yds 40 lbs braid
150 ft 40 lbs mono
200 ft copper
1 ft 40 lb mono
2 colors leadcore
30 ft leader - 25 lbs flouro.

This setup is easier to deploy with the leadcore in front.
You can add snap weight just after letting the copper out and can let out more line before attaching the planer board (i hate clipping boards to braid so I add the mono in there).
This allows you to use the setup as either a 200 copper or deeper (with added weight).
The two sections of mono help cushion shock on big hits or the board catching a wave.
 
So does copper have to be fished all the way out everytime to the same length?
Reason I'm asking is I been watching vids about how to spool up and looks like everyone uses a section of mono between the copper and the backing. The guy in the video said he uses the mono section for the planner board to hook to. So if I'm understanding this if I set up a 300' copper rig I have to always use it to fish the same 300' long depth range?
Is this the same for WS?
Yes, same holds true for copper, weighted steel and leadcore.
 
Dipsys...

Read your post again and realized that you don't have any wire dipsy rods. Forget what I said about the 300/10 colors and get two wire dipsy divers. Usually the most productive rods in the boat. There is a learning curve, but it's not all that hard after the first few runs. Figure out the wire rods and then go to the copper/LC.
 
Read your post again and realized that you don't have any wire dipsy rods. Forget what I said about the 300/10 colors and get two wire dipsy divers. Usually the most productive rods in the boat. There is a learning curve, but it's not all that hard after the first few runs. Figure out the wire rods and then go to the copper/LC.
:yeahthat::yeahthat: Much better off adding a wire dipsey setup. With this setup you can cover from surface to as low as you dare go. Much better next setup for you than a board line
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Read your post again and realized that you don't have any wire dipsy rods. Forget what I said about the 300/10 colors and get two wire dipsy divers. Usually the most productive rods in the boat. There is a learning curve, but it's not all that hard after the first few runs. Figure out the wire rods and then go to the copper/LC.
Can I use my down riggers and dipsy divers at the same time? I thought I needed to have a board to get it out away from the boat. I really want to keep my down riggers as I prefer fighting the fish and not a diver.
 
Can I use my down riggers and dipsy divers at the same time? I thought I needed to have a board to get it out away from the boat. I really want to keep my down riggers as I prefer fighting the fish and not a diver.
You set your dipsy with a side setting of 2 to 3 and it will pull away from the boat. You can fish both downriggers and the dipsy. To start out I would probably rig up a rod to run braid line for the dipsy. 300 yards of 40 or 50 lb braid.

Sounds like you're probably fishing solo? In that case, maybe look at a slide diver setup so you don't need to try and net a fish with a 10-15 ft leader.
 
Can I use my down riggers and dipsy divers at the same time? I thought I needed to have a board to get it out away from the boat. I really want to keep my down riggers as I prefer fighting the fish and not a diver.
Yes, the weight on the bottom of the dipsys rotates which allows you to adjust it so that it planes out slightly to the side, preventing tangles with your riggers. You can effectively run 2 dipsys per side by having varying degrees of plane like one on a "1" setting (slight side plane) and one on a "3" setting (greater side planing).
 
Are you guys that switched having the same catch rate success with steel vs copper?? All about easier but all I hear is copper catches more fish. From my limited experience it does catch alot of fish I would hate to switch for ease but less bites
cant tell the difference in catch rate. I mainly run 300 and 400 weighted steel and anything shallower is leadcore. I dont mind a few extra turns of the reel to avoid dealing with copper and in the same depth ranges I think leadcore outfishes both IMO
 
cant tell the difference in catch rate. I mainly run 300 and 400 weighted steel and anything shallower is leadcore. I dont mind a few extra turns of the reel to avoid dealing with copper and in the same depth ranges I think leadcore outfishes both IMO
That’s pretty much what I do.
 
I converted all of my LC and most copper setups to WS. I went with Blood Run and one Torpedo. The Torpedo seems a bit more supple and will likely be the direction I go in the future. 100, 150, and 200 are still Cu. 225, 250, 275, 300, 325, and 350 are all WS.

Many thanks to the guy that took out 6 of my long-lines a few years back for sending me in this direction. WS is easier to deploy and untangle than copper but copper is easier to rig and repair. In the end I’m not overly sure it makes a difference. I like the 32# copper which does not seem overly popular, it doesn’t take up as much space on a reel as the 45#.
 
I'm about to upgrade my now coppers. Old wore out cranks. Thinking about going saltists I'm surprised that convectors are such an overwhelming favorite when they need an upgrade. I like the idea of a saltwater drag for less than a bill more. I have them on my riggers and wire divers and they make all my other reels seem like zebcos.
 
Convectors in the larger sizes are a good value. The cost to upgrade the drags puts you way under the higher end stuff. I agree in the Saltist being great, own a couple myself. I won’t by any more, can’t justify the cost/value.
 
Yes, the weight on the bottom of the dipsys rotates which allows you to adjust it so that it planes out slightly to the side, preventing tangles with your riggers. You can effectively run 2 dipsys per side by having varying degrees of plane like one on a "1" setting (slight side plane) and one on a "3" setting (greater side planing).

This is how I run my divers. They are usually out 100-175 feet and angle away from the boat, so they usually don't tangle with your riggers (never say never). If you go with divers, take a look at Chinook divers. I bought a pair and they were great, so I bought another pair. :)

A lot of people start with braid, but fleas can be a PITA with braid. I would suggest that you buy a Convector 30 LC and put 1,000 feet of wire on it. Pair it with a 9-1/2 foot MH wilderness rod with a twili tip and you should be into it for about $175 each. Be patient when you deploy them and you shouldn't have any issues.
 
Solid advice there.

Next on my list is to convert my high divers from braid to wire.

but before I do…. What length of torpedo weighted steel do I need to get me to the same depth as a 200 cu?
If these dive charts are correct...about 210.

Image
 
Solid advice there.

Next on my list is to convert my high divers from braid to wire.

but before I do…. What length of torpedo weighted steel do I need to get me to the same depth as a 200 cu?
I would consider keeping one braid diver and either attaching a heavier segment of mono. in front of your leader to run a slide diver (black) on to get it away from you lure/flasher fly set-up as a stealth diver set-up, or a dipsey run off an S-hook on a similar heavy monofilament segment between the braid and leader connection you have currently. Wire can get you deeeper and a large fish on wire is quite a fight, but when it is calm braid and wire fish the same or braid set-ups seam win out. When there is a good surface chop wire excels, I suspect due to the additional jigging action triggering reflex strikes by following fish.

The next three years of salmon fishing on Lake Michigan are going to be more similar to 2007 through 2012 catch rates...have fun! Individual fish size will likely fall though...
 
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