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All these properties are incredible. Just that fact that all your parcels are getting attention will increase their deer attraction. Always like to watch developments. So many great parcels viewed here.

My work 2021:
Removable fence and irrigation on my front yard plots (nearly complete).
Hinge and block to direct movement and increase bedding cover west of main box blind. 1/8 acre of work.
Trim blinds more effectively (don't know if that counts as habitat but if done right it will).
Work on phragmites in my pond.
Clear better access lanes through previous hinge stands and update most hinged stands.
Clear trails as I have areas of no navigation.

That's enough!! I try to keep it simple and manageable so I don't end up doing nothing. Smaller projects now at 10 years+ is all I need to maintain.
 
My list seems to change after every seed catalog I get in the mail or website I stroll through on a particular evening.

Build two small raised blinds and have locations already marked out.
I have a patch of ***** willows that I want to take cuttings from and use to form a visual screen in two different locations. (free)
Remove a horizontal rub that hasn't been used.
Build another licking branch location.
More lime.
Put ground cloth/weed block around previous and new plantings.
Drop roughly half a dozen trees.
Start building cages next month.
Alsike clover and WR in the main plot. Unsure of plot 2 and 3. Plot 2 is around 500 sq ft. and intermixed with hard and soft mast.
Toying with....swamp white oak, more hazelnuts, mulberry, small cluster of staghorn sumac, chestnut, additional apples, crabs etc etc. I need to balance wants, needs, cost and time.

On a side note, short of ninebark, lilac and spruce all shrubs and trees I've planted are edible.
 
So far I have not heard if QDMA will have the Conservation Seed Program. I left a message for Josh, if I hear anything I will post a thread. Typically speaking branch orders will have to be in by the end of January.

In 2020 I had a bunch of left over RR beans that I planted. They worked as designed for feeding the local deer population all summer but it was obvious that they would not be available for the hunting season on my interior plots. To ensure that I had some available food I broadcast aroostook rye seed into the beans. This spring I’ll have to deal with termination before they get to tall.

I have my Welter Seed catalog in front of me and was looking at brassica seed varieties. I’ll order more but only after I verify what left over at camp.

Aroostook rye variety was such a hit, I’ll skip beans on interior plots if they become available and prep/plant brassica plus over seed with rye a month later.

Depending on cheap bean seed availability my destination plot planting are undecided at this point. Worst case will be brassica and rye seed. After last years large scale aroostook rye experiment I’m planning on at least a ton purchase of rye seed for the season.

If spring comes early enough I’ll plant a Egyptian wheat screen. I think I have enough seed left for a quarter mile long screen. If not I’ll buy some screen seed from Northwoods. My two row planter makes quick work of that project.

I still have winter clean up projects from last year to take care of plus I’m behind on firewood for next years sap season and for camp. I like to be way ahead of the game on that project just in case something happens and I miss a year of prep.

I may add another firearm season shack that will double for bear season spot.

What’s everyone else’s 2021 plans?
  1. Install a new pond and re-work the ground around one other working with USFWS.
  2. Start to implement a new multi-year Forest Management Plan with Brush Management and Forest Stand Improvement practices.
  3. Install a grassed waterway and surrounding land in CRP.
  4. Frost seed some chicory and clover on top of some old food plots.
  5. Frost seed some area with switchgrass to create additional bedding.
  6. Attempt to stop the woodpecker from using my blind as a home.
 
After owning the property for only six months. I have a better idea of the deer patterns and what the property needs. Food and Cover, big surprise, lol.

2021-
I’m working with NRCS to apply for a grant for my consulting forester to write me a plan.
Hoping to take advantage all available grants to improve the property.

The property is overloaded with red oak (wilt in the area) and Jack pine that need to be taken out. I’m going to leave the all the white oak, spruce and younger white pine mixed throughout.

If all goes well I’d also like to get into the property tax saving program before the September deadline. I’m never going to live on the property, so I figure I might as well take care of the non homestead tax savings. I’d like to put a small cabin on the southwest corner so I need to better understand how to properly do this within the programs framework.

I don’t want to spend too much time and effort on habitat work before the loggers come in and make their mess.

I am going to expand my food plots. Starting with lime and buckwheat in the new areas and continue with cereal rye and rye in the existing plots. Even if these are not perfect long term locations at the least they will improve the hunting this fall.

Im going to attempted to transplant ROD in wet swamp edges and see if they will take. Low cost/ high reward

My big goal for the year is to complete a trail around the perimeter of the property. I need to continue to hunt the outside edges until I can thicken the interior after the logging.

I am considering adding more crab apples and apples, but may wait until the loggers are here and gone. Might just grow them in 5 gallon buckets for a year.

Final goal is to harvest my first deer off the property. I was fortunate enough to take a Elk and Mule deer this fall. With two full freezers I didn’t have any intention of shooting deer this past fall, baring a booner walking by ;)

While lofty, I fully expect to complete these goals in 2021.
 
oh the list.....

I wanted to put two new blinds in. Of course the carpenter who said he wanted the job is like most contractors these days... After 4-5 follow ups and the same outcome (after no contact, i send him f/u then he replies he still wants the job and promises to get back to me and then goes mia again - been going on since mid-dec); it is clear he isnt dependable. So..immediately need to find someone new to make up for lost time. Starting to look like maybe custom builds won't work... are there any competent, dependable contractors out there these days???

My other things:

1) Shooting lanes for said new blinds!
1a) Put up new blinds (august).
2) Better shooting lanes for current blinds.. A SUPER LIKE here for Labtech Lewis' post on lanes. Every year in August we get in the blinds and look out like hunting and direct the lane clearer with the brush cutter/chain saw...And then in Nov/Dec we are kicking ourselves because the lanes aren't really what we needed. Labtech is 100% spot on with the point we only clear a small lane in 3 spots and then the leaves/foilage fall and there are more that could be available but many have a small but snarly branches that get in the way. I am going to do more this year. Full day just on lanes! I watched my #1 target last year on the sat of tgiving meander 20 mins in front of me. I had a shooting lane due south and due west. He walked right in between them - back and forth. I had the scope on him the whole time but had saplings, branches, brush, etc. All of the thick stuff that made him comfortable to be there.. I am going to be more aggressive with my lanes.
3) Buying new equipment this year...that will also let me take back some AO areas. Trim back brush growth over my plots, And to create some new trails for the deer. Full day here too likely. I am buying a brush mulcher I am SUPER excited to get.
4) War on Pigweed...I will post another thread on this topic but the Whitetail Institute company went way out of their way to help me with a plan on this. It will be a lot of work to attack the pig weed... spray and then till every two weeks until fall planting. (will consume 3-4 days).
5) Fruit trees (add some) and re-cage the ones I have. Need 25 more cages. And ready to cut down pear tree tubes. To let these trees start to spread their branches. Adding Crabs mostly I think. 25 more.
6) Annual Miscanthus hole filling. Generally 25 rhizomes.
7) New Perm no trespassing sign project...i have had it with paper ones.. I cut 3/4 inch treated plywood tiles and am using those metal white/yellow signs with name/number on them. Putting them about every 25-50 yards... I am sure my neighbors who don't know me will think i am making a statement. I am not. Just want to use these so every season i don't waste half a day stapling plastic/paper ones to trees that just fall off in 3-4 months.
8)) Annual stuff...fps, trail clearing, maintenance on equipment, etc.

I am excited about all of it... Heading up this friday to finalize to begin.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Pig weed is very easy the control in clover. It grows so fast compared to clover it makes the perfect candidate for a rope wick applicator with glyphosate and AMS. One wipe and done until a new germination takes place.
 
oh the list.....

7) New Perm no trespassing sign project...i have had it with paper ones.. I cut 3/4 inch treated plywood tiles and am using those metal white/yellow signs with name/number on them. Putting them about every 25-50 yards... I am sure my neighbors who don't know me will think i am making a statement. I am not. Just want to use these so every season i don't waste half a day stapling plastic/paper ones to trees that just fall off in 3-4 months.
Buy these posted signs and be done with buying signs for the rest of your life:

Serious Property Markers | Durable Posted Signs Made in the ...seriouspropertymarkers.com

They aren't really inexpensive but you only have to buy them once:

749725


For metal gate you can just drill a couple holes and use self-tapping metal screws....

749726


749724


Any screw will do on treated posts. Those that I hang on live trees get Star Head deck screws. Every 2-3 years I will go around the property and back out the screws a turn or two so they don't pull through the sign as the tree grows. That is the only maintenance needed. These things will last forever.

749727


These signs are aluminum with a treated board for a backer. I got them at Home Depot.

Image
 
This is a transition year for me. We're selling our Hillsdale County property very soon. We moved north to Menominee County and bought a home and pole barn on 40 acres. There is an open field, perhaps 12 acres in size, that was planted in sorghum last year. I already started liming the food plot areas and frost seeded switchgrass in much of the large field. There are about 20 acres of cedar swamp with some black spruce, tamarack, poplar, birch, red osier dogwood, and tag alders mixed in. The plan is to make some bedding areas in the field and more bedding in the swamp. Trees and shrubs, including cuttings will be planted in the field bedding areas. We'd like to put in a pond that we can see from the house. Dozer work needs to be completed in several areas on the property. Screening will be planted along the road. I purchased Egyptian Wheat to block the view onto the property until the switchgrass matures. Stands need to be put up and access trails need to be created. I'm in the process of marking access trails and bedding areas with orange ribbon. Licking branches will be installed near the stand sites. Apple and pear trees must be pruned. I'd like to drop some of the poplar trees in hopes of getting more browse growing on the property. I'll start a new thread soon to show my habitat plan for the new property. Attached are a couple pictures of our new property. View attachment 749093 View attachment 749094 View attachment 749095 View attachment 749096 View attachment 749097
Mike. I would love to see your new place. Let me know a good time and I will bring my chainsaws.
 
Buy these posted signs and be done with buying signs for the rest of your life:

Serious Property Markers | Durable Posted Signs Made in the ...seriouspropertymarkers.com

They aren't really inexpensive but you only have to buy them once:

For metal gate you can just drill a couple holes and use self-tapping metal screws....

Any screw will do on treated posts. Those that I hang on live trees get Star Head deck screws. Every 2-3 years I will go around the property and back out the screws a turn or two so they don't pull through the sign as the tree grows. That is the only maintenance needed. These things will last forever.

These signs are aluminum with a treated board for a backer. I got them at Home Depot.
A little tip that could make your life easier along with the lives of folks who are not as ambitious as yourself. If you use reasonably long aluminum nails when attaching to trees and only drive them in part way, the tree can grow for a long time, maybe twenty years or more with some trees, before any maintenance is needed. If the nail happens to stay in the tree, no harm no foul. Apparently aluminum nails don't really bother sawmill or pulp operations, or at least that is what the DNR bigwigs said when they had us nailing thousands and thousands of ORV signs to trees back in the day.

BTW, driving aluminum nails into maple, beech and oak can be quite challenging to say the least. FM
 
Prune and train a couple dozen 4 year old apple trees. Most will be losing their large 5' cages and replaced with a small 4' cage for rub protection. Large cages will be reallocated to new plantings.

Expand a current 1/3 acre hinged bedding area to be about an acre.

Cut up and remove many trees that I hinged into a field edge for feathering. It's been ineffective for it's intended screening purpose, the area will be planted in a strip of switch this spring.

Transplant the last 50 apples I grafted 2 years ago from the garden to their permanent locations. Some will get tubed, some will get caged.

Dig up and divide established switch clumps. Divisions will be transplanted to mostly failed switch screens. I'll transplant blackberry canes into newly created pockets within switch.

Dig and Divide Miscanthus rhizomes for planting around box blinds and along their access.

Transplant more sumac into my "Rub Island" and I have a couple 4' white pine ordered to add to it. This is about a 500 sq ft area I added into one of my food plots last year to become a focal point for buck activity. Worked too well, they broke off or uprooted every single sumac. Plan to fence off for a year or two to get bigger sized trees that'll not be so easily ruined.

Transplant some of my favorite shrub varieties to create travel corridors that connect cover.

Plant 8 sweet cherries, 1 pear, and 1 apple from Grandpa's Orchard. Will all be caged.

Planting 2700 conifers over 3.5 acres through CRP. Norway Spruce, White Spruce, White Pine and Jack Pine.

Planting 17 acres of NWSG through CRP.

Graft a dozen 2 year old persimmons over to the "Meader" cultivar.

Plant 1/2 acre of sugar beets. Will be e-fenced or receive a few applications of morganite as deterrent.

I built a crimper last year and attempted to go no-till in my 2 largest plots totaling about 2.5 acres. Weeds were a major issue, mainly because summer drought. Doing Liberty Link beans there this spring to hopefully get those weeds under control, which will then get top dressed with cereal grains, radish, and annual clovers in fall. That hopefully puts me on the path for future broadcast and crimp plot success.

Plant approximately another acre in fall plots.
 
Transplant more sumac into my "Rub Island" and I have a couple 4' white pine ordered to add to it. This is about a 500 sq ft area I added into one of my food plots last year to become a focal point for buck activity. Worked too well, they broke off or uprooted every single sumac. Plan to fence off for a year or two to get bigger sized trees that'll not be so easily ruined.
Now, that is interesting. Any good pics?

What a great idea. Does sumac transplant with high rate of survival? This is staghorn?

I've thought about trying to add these for stem density. What else do you know about them?
 
Now, that is interesting. Any good pics?

What a great idea. Does sumac transplant with high rate of survival? This is staghorn?

I've thought about trying to add these for stem density. What else do you know about them?

Yes, they're staghorn. They transplant very well, I don't even take that much for roots. These are probably 1.5-2" in diameter and 7-8' tall, that seems to be the sweet spot for transplanting. Much bigger and they start getting difficult to dig (their colonies are typically one root mass so there is some chopping of roots involved), any smaller and they get browsed to death. Unfortunately it's a little small for rubbing durability as you'll see.

They're preferred for rubbing and browse, I know RMH also likes them for licking branches.

Here is how it progressed this season, these were transplanted dormant in early spring. Right above the bucks antlers there is 2 in a 4' cage. They're the re-sprouts of one I transplanted the year before.
750013


First one gets rubbed and pushed over in the back just above the doe.
750014

One on far right starts to get hit.
750015


Two on far right and back left are all broke off and back middle starts to get rubbed
750018


All broke off except one pushed way over
750020

Nothing vertical by Oct 1
750021


I'm going to transplant many more into it, plus those white pines I mentioned, and fence if for a couple years. Aside from those new trees I'll be transplanting, the roots from the old ones should be sending up a bunch of new suckers.
 
Yes, they're staghorn. They transplant very well, I don't even take that much for roots. These are probably 1.5-2" in diameter and 7-8' tall, that seems to be the sweet spot for transplanting. Much bigger and they start getting difficult to dig (their colonies are typically one root mass so there is some chopping of roots involved), any smaller and they get browsed to death. Unfortunately it's a little small for rubbing durability as you'll see.

They're preferred for rubbing and browse, I know RMH also likes them for licking branches.

Here is how it progressed this season, these were transplanted dormant in early spring. Right above the bucks antlers there is 2 in a 4' cage. They're the re-sprouts of one I transplanted the year before.
View attachment 750013

First one gets rubbed and pushed over in the back just above the doe.
View attachment 750014
One on far right starts to get hit.
View attachment 750015

Two on far right and back left are all broke off and back middle starts to get rubbed
View attachment 750018

All broke off except one pushed way over
View attachment 750020
Nothing vertical by Oct 1
View attachment 750021

I'm going to transplant many more into it, plus those white pines I mentioned, and fence if for a couple years. Aside from those new trees I'll be transplanting, the roots from the old ones should be sending up a bunch of new suckers.
Thanks! A+ answer!

Funny you mentioned RMH. He was promoting that at the habitat day last week, again. That's what restarted the wheels turning in my head. That, and I can see a small colony of staghorn sumac in my backyard. No question -- anytime you see sumac (even when it's adjacent to someone's driveway) it's rubbed. I wonder how long it would take for your rub island colony to expand and thicken.
 
Solid morning of cutting spokes / shooting lanes at The 200. This stand is not far from Bedding Area #1 and Bedding Area #3. One of the spokes gives us a good 75 yard look down towards BA#1. It will prove to be time well-spent. As this area thickens more and more with brambles and prickly-ash, it becomes increasingly difficult to identify a shooter as it's moving through. Field edge (with licking vine) behind at 6 o'clock. Foot path at 12 o'clock. Spokes at 2 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 9 o'clock and 10 o'clock, plus a field in corn next season, are going to make sure this ambush remains in high demand. Bet on it.
 
Starting to get the habitat plans sorted out for the year.

Right now I've 360 white spruce plugs ordered and 48 larch, had to change larch vendors as the original is out of all conifers. Have clover seed to refresh several acres of pathways and to plant a couple other areas. In three or four areas I will add pt turnips or groundhog radish or some of the other seeds ordered or on hand.

Lots of spraying and turning some dirt to prep areas for pheasant brush runways, I'll fence the brush runways until they get going then I'll also let the deer use them.

I'm thinking I'll have a dozer guy come in this winter and get a price and plan for having some of my dirt paths built up and ditches so I have better drained paths. The dozer work will need to be done in late summer when its a little drier where the paths need work.

Going to use the backhoe to move some of my willow, gray and silky dogwood along the edges of my newly dozed paths.

There will also be a lot of the normal cutting and mowing and stand maintenance.

This is what I started with for my plan about 12 years ago and pretty much of this is all done and needs to mature. The cool grass field will be preped this summer for the pheasant bush pathways.

I don't know how I had time to work before I retired.

751430
 
I’ll be doing a burn on the CRP grass behind my house very soon and replanting any trees in the bedding pockets or wind break that didn’t make it from last year. Frost seed existing clover. Other than that it’s mainly being patient and letting everything grow here at the homestead.
The new property I have no idea yet. Its all so new just trying to get the lay of the land and see how everything is being used. Will start with bedding area and trail maintenance following shed season, soil samples for food plots, frost seed into existing clover, and hang stands. That’ll be plenty for now.
 
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