Michigan Sportsman Forum banner
1 - 20 of 160 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,784 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m thinking about getting into making my own inline spinners. There doesn’t appear to be a ton of baits between the size of a number 5 Mepps and big double 10 cowgirl. Mostly I’m looking to the in-between size for pike & light muskie duty with size 5-8 single and double blade setups in the 3/4 to 1 1/2 ounce range. From doing a bit of research, figuring out how to get a balanced design can take a bit of trial and error, and I’m fine with that.

Since there are a variety of wire forming tools out there, I’d like to hear what others have experienced. What size wire you are bending with what equipment and how easy/repeatable it is would be helpful.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
38,569 Posts
I've made some heavy duty musky stuff. 0.051 wire. Haven't tried lighter. Bought some quality round nose pliers and although the loops and wraps aren't perfect they're pretty darn good with minimal practice. I'm not selling for profit so function is more important to me than perfection. Oh and compared to wire the tools are pretty expensive as I'm sure you've seen.

I put a little weight in the back but if it's off balance I don't notice. I just make em and throw em. They catch fish and don't get bent up.

I have found I prefer marabou over bucktail. It flows nice in the water. Take a look at a mepps marabou musky. They're size 8. Good size for a big pike and musky like them too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,784 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've made some heavy duty musky stuff. 0.051 wire. Haven't tried lighter. Bought some quality round nose pliers and although the loops and wraps aren't perfect they're pretty darn good with minimal practice. I'm not selling for profit so function is more important to me than perfection. Oh and compared to wire the tools are pretty expensive as I'm sure you've seen.

I put a little weight in the back but if it's off balance I don't notice. I just make em and throw em. They catch fish and don't get bent up.

I have found I prefer marabou over bucktail. It flows nice in the water. Take a look at a mepps marabou musky. They're size 8. Good size for a big pike and musky like them too.
Good to hear even using pliers on the heavy wire isn’t a problem. Stuff in the size range of those Mepps is what I’m targeting, but at $20+ a pop I’d rather make exactly what I want instead of settling for kinda what I want.

I’ve learned enough about pike moods that I want to make a couple set color patterns with a variety of blade size and shapes to be able to give them the thump they want any given day. And then replicate this in several weights to fish different depths.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
38,569 Posts
Good to hear even using pliers on the heavy wire isn’t a problem.
It's not the easiest but it isn't that hard either. One size lighter wire would be nice but for musky it gets bent up.

The mepps catch a lot of fish... but they get destroyed after about 8-10 fish. Not bad but not like the .051.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,659 Posts
but at $20+ a pop I’d rather make exactly what I want instead of settling for kinda what I want.
You'd be able to make your own much cheaper. I've been taking an interest into making my own spinners and spoons. A 5 pack of spoon blanks runs like $6 for the larger ones (3/4oz on up) and a 10 pack of smaller spoons (1/4oz, 2/5oz, etc) runs about the same price. Add your own split rings, hooks, and paint and you're fishing.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
38,569 Posts
Its cheaper for each individual bucktail made by the $/part used, but by the time you buy an assortment of stuff its really not cheaper. I bought several hundred dollars in parts and if I made lures out of every single piece, fine, I save money. But who needs 50 bucktails? I use 2 or 3 a trip.

I make double 10's with double marabou tails for about $13-15. The marabou pre-tied on a coil is like $4 each by itself. Might be able to save a couple more bucks if I bought the materials and tied my own I guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,746 Posts
Getting bent, no longer running true. PIA
You might want to try using some #90 (or lighter. Depends on your wants/needs) handling wound wire.
Easy to crimp, cut etc. Cheaper to build. Heck I've even changed length/color etc out on the water.
You need 2 sizes of crimps. One for double wire (making loops etc) and one for setting stops if required so the blade will be the exact length away from the hook and not cover the hook. Bead stops, piece of tag wire as a weed guard etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,947 Posts
Getting bent, no longer running true. PIA
You might want to try using some #90 (or lighter. Depends on your wants/needs) handling wound wire.
Easy to crimp, cut etc. Cheaper to build. Heck I've even changed length/color etc out on the water.
You need 2 sizes of crimps. One for double wire (making loops etc) and one for setting stops if required so the blade will be the exact length away from the hook and not cover the hook. Bead stops, piece of tag wire as a weed guard etc.
Had many HiFinns I burned in for musky, when one finally smashes it they would always bend the shaft and the lure would run right again. Still caught fish on them but was a PIA. I really should sell my musky casting box with the lures don't think I will ever really cast for them again for any length of time.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
38,569 Posts
Had many HiFinns I burned in for musky, when one finally smashes it they would always bend the shaft and the lure would run right again. Still caught fish on them but was a PIA. I really should sell my musky casting box with the lures don't think I will ever really cast for them again for any length of time.
0.051 wire? I have yet to have a musky bend one of mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
337 Posts
I've made inline spinners using steel leader for the shaft. Just loop and crimp the sleeve with hook on one end, thread on the weight/ beads/ blade and loop and finish. You can leave a long lead so ya don't need to add a steel leader. For pike/ musky titanium leader would resist kinking.
Also, if ya tie flies, consider tying to the shaft itself. I make a wooly bugger spinner that way, body on shaft, tail on hook.
I prefer a mix of bucktail/craftfur/crystalflash over maribou. Still has good action and much more durable.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
638 Posts
I've often wondered if making inline spinners with Titanium wire is feasible. Just to resist kinking better. Not sure if it can be finished / "tied" appropriately, though?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,784 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've often wondered if making inline spinners with Titanium wire is feasible. Just to resist kinking better. Not sure if it can be finished / "tied" appropriately, though?
Yes it can, but you have to form with the material at the right elevated temperature, and probably control the cooling process too.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
638 Posts
I might have to start experimenting. I throw a lot of Arctic Spinners and spoons at the same time. The shafts on the Arctic's can only take so many kinks before they get retired. Cohos and pike are the worst on them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
337 Posts
I was referring to using flexible steel/titanium leader material, not wire.
Sort of like a crawler harness on mono but with steel leader instead.
I've made smaller spinners and trolling rigs that way.
When making a spinner I peg the weight, put a bead and 2 slipbobber stops above the blade so it doesn't slide when casting.
Haven't tested much, just throwing an idea out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,640 Posts
Wonder what the cost difference would be. While it would last alot longer not sure it would be worth it. As soon as I get a spinner that doesn't swim right I just throw it aside. When I get enough of them I just take them into the shop and remake them one at a time, the exact same way. Truth be told it doesn't really take that long to cut one apart and rebend a new wire... just my thoughts gents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Following. I also plan on starting to make my own spinners, spoons, and tieable wire crawler harnesses soon. More about having exactly what I want than cost saving. I'm more interested in making steelhead and smallmouth sizes than musky tho. Will update when/if I get around to making some.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Michigan Sportsman mobile app
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
638 Posts
Wonder what the cost difference would be. While it would last alot longer not sure it would be worth it. As soon as I get a spinner that doesn't swim right I just throw it aside. When I get enough of them I just take them into the shop and remake them one at a time, the exact same way. Truth be told it doesn't really take that long to cut one apart and rebend a new wire... just my thoughts gents.
Good call, didn't think about it like that.
 
1 - 20 of 160 Posts
Top