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Glad you guys brought up the fertilizer question. I see the majority of the posts here feel it isn't a good idea (or necessary) for switch. Even if soil is bad. Lime? Same view? Good idea to throw some down before planting? And don't ask if i did a test. LOL.

Second question - do opinions change if you are using the screen cover method per above. I am planting this Saturday. I waited based on this thread. I sprayed two weeks ago. Planning to till, broadcast switch then broadcast Northwood HD screen.

I was thinking i would hedge throw down some 19-19-19 (or 13-13-13 if good deal) to help it out. But now not thinking i will. BUT...do you all have a different opinion if i am using the screen as the cover? I will still use Urea as needed.

Thoughts?

Also - noted Jake didn't cultipack. He disked. He dragged. Broad cast and then dragged again. His bed was level and smooth after a drag only. Mine tends to not be that great. But... all agree I should till.... drag... broadcast and drag?

So key questions in summary - assuming no idea of soil condition.

1) Lime before planting switch/scree sorgum?
2) Use fertilizer for this combo?
3) Cultipack?

Thanks all!
 
Glad you guys brought up the fertilizer question. I see the majority of the posts here feel it isn't a good idea (or necessary) for switch. Even if soil is bad. Lime? Same view? Good idea to throw some down before planting? And don't ask if i did a test. LOL.

Second question - do opinions change if you are using the screen cover method per above. I am planting this Saturday. I waited based on this thread. I sprayed two weeks ago. Planning to till, broadcast switch then broadcast Northwood HD screen.

I was thinking i would hedge throw down some 19-19-19 (or 13-13-13 if good deal) to help it out. But now not thinking i will. BUT...do you all have a different opinion if i am using the screen as the cover? I will still use Urea as needed.

Thoughts?

Also - noted Jake didn't cultipack. He disked. He dragged. Broad cast and then dragged again. His bed was level and smooth after a drag only. Mine tends to not be that great. But... all agree I should till.... drag... broadcast and drag?

So key questions in summary - assuming no idea of soil condition.

1) Lime before planting switch/scree sorgum?
2) Use fertilizer for this combo?
3) Cultipack?

Thanks all!
Lime….if the soil needs it yes, if not, no, but only way to know that is from the soil test not done. 😂
If it were me, I’d skip the fertilizer.
However you prep it is your call. Spread the north woods, cover it, pack it, spread the switch and pack again. If you spread the switch with the north woods, you’ll likely bury the switch too deep, need to do the extra step of spreading it on packed ground and repack.
 
Finally got this done..... this is my FINAL attempt at switch. Although I would probably hire someone with expertise to finally get it in the right way.

I ended up with the spray two weeks ago.... did an ok job. I had rotary cut the week before i sprayed. So weeds were low. Shocked how tall they were again yesterday even though yellow and dead. (other than those pesky spots i always seem to miss - ha).

I tilled the dead grasses under... tried anyway. Dragged... Broadcast the Northwoods HD screen... Dragged... Broadcast the switch (damn those seeds are small) and then dragged again. I NEED RAIN! I saw the birds already starting to gather to enjoy the buffet i put down.

Fingers crossed!
 
Wish I would have taken pictures. The screen I frost seeded this past march is on the struggle buss. Germination is extremely low. Maybe 1/4 of what was seeded. Hopefully the remaining is laying dormant. Ground is super hard and has has very very little rain. What rain we have received has come down hard and fast so I think most of it runs off. Lots of cracking in the soil. Did get a good soaking last night but we need that probably every couple days especially with this heat coming. I see nothing in the 10 day. More frost seeding next year I guess. 1 plus is the simazine is working great. hardly any weed competition as of now.
 
@NovemberWhitetailz - Where is your place located and do you think you got enough freeze thaw cycles after seeding in March? It was a particularly warm/ early spring.

My home ragdoll test showed very low germination for non-stratified seed (<20%), even at 21 days.

I have had the same issue with year 1 seeding if not early enough to catch the freeze/thaw cycles. However the dormant seed was there and came in strong the second year.

Hopefully this is the case for you. (Although another spring frost seeding at 50% rate might not hurt)

D
 
@NovemberWhitetailz - Where is your place located and do you think you got enough freeze thaw cycles after seeding in March? It was a particularly warm/ early spring.

My home ragdoll test showed very low germination for non-stratified seed (<20%), even at 21 days.

I have had the same issue with year 1 seeding if not early enough to catch the freeze/thaw cycles. However the dormant seed was there and came in strong the second year.

Hopefully this is the case for you. (Although another spring frost seeding at 50% rate might not hurt)

D
Tuscola county. I'll have to go through some texts to see when I did frost seed. When I sprayed Simazine and Gly there were no seeds on top. So either they worked themselves in or they were picked off by turkeys and birds. I do know there was at least 4 good nights below freezing. Not sure how many it takes but i'm happy to hear the seed came back up in year two. I think I have just about 50% of the recommended rate leftover so that's what I will plan to do.
 
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@NovemberWhitetailz - Where is your place located and do you think you got enough freeze thaw cycles after seeding in March? It was a particularly warm/ early spring.

My home ragdoll test showed very low germination for non-stratified seed (<20%), even at 21 days.

I have had the same issue with year 1 seeding if not early enough to catch the freeze/thaw cycles. However the dormant seed was there and came in strong the second year.

Hopefully this is the case for you. (Although another spring frost seeding at 50% rate might not hurt)

D
Cold stratification can be done by just leaving the seed in the freezer for the required period. You can get Gibberellic Acid which is cheap and will last a lifetime. I still like to CS even with the Acid.
 
Expectations for a switchgrass planting frost seeded this year should be nothing at this point.

I’ve never been able to positively ID switch until mid July when I’ve done it in the past. This year being an exception. I added to a food plot screen and I’m seeing a lot of switch seedlings now.

All I did was mow/scalp low last Sept, frost seed in March, and sprayed with Gly in early May. This is what an excellent first year switch planting looks like today. I’m talking about the area between the plot and the existing switchgrass.
Plant Sky Cloud Natural landscape Tree

In the past I’ve been at this point about mid July and by then there is more weed competition and foxtail so its hard to ID.
Plant community Plant Natural landscape Terrestrial plant Grass

Long story short, you may just need to wait longer.
 
I did zero cold stratification with my switchgrass seed and it germinated great. I purchased the seed from John Kronk at Northwoods Whitetails, Inc, and left it in my unheated but insulated pole barn until I drilled it on June 11th. I don't know if John cold stratifies the seed prior to selling it or if I was just lucky but it all germinated very well - even the leftover seed which I drilled 2 years later.

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Drilled on June 11th - by July 4th it was well on its way...

Plant Natural landscape Groundcover Terrestrial plant Grass
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Agree with Wild Thing, I've never stratified CIR, Alamo, Blackwell or Kanlow SG seed. I plant mine anywhere from mid-May to mid-June. I've never frost seeded, but have broadcast and drilled during the same exact time with great results. It's nice to drill the seed for a couple reasons, first off the seed planting rate is perfect and secondly the rows of switchgrass are very easy to see once they start to sprout. With that said, I wouldn't bother drilling small areas.
 
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I drilled on June 18 of this year. Latest I’ve ever planted due to some unforeseen issues. We will see how it goes. Got a little rain last night but there isn’t a mere drop in the 10 day so I don’t know what to expect. I will begin to look for new grass in a month or so. Switch is a waiting game.
 
Looks great. Mine is looking weak. Weeds seemed to do just fine! But the Northwoods Screen growth was spotty and I just don't see a lot of switch in it. Crab grass...yes! lots of it! But switch... not so much.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
I'll have to get some pictures of my switchgrass this weekend. Some of the switch I planted last June is over 7' maybe even 8' tall, the buffers planted adjacent to wood lines are probably only 4' due to the lack of rain this year and it competing with trees for moisture. All of the 3rd year switchgrass is between 6'-8' tall. I have a couple of long trails that I mow through my switchgrass, those mowed areas put on 12-18" of new growth about every (2) weeks..
 
I just took this pic a few days ago. This is at eye-level. My switchgrass just does't get all that tall here in Dickinson County. This is Cave In Rock with about 20% Kanlow mixed in. This is a 4th year stand I believe. I know it really needs to be burned next year - should have done it this year. Maybe it will do better after being burned??
Plant Green Natural landscape Tree Terrestrial plant
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I remembered to take (1) picture of my switchgrass today, planned to take more, but never did. This mowed trail goes through switchgrass that was planted at two different times, June ‘20 (right side of picture) and June ‘21 (left side). It’s hard to tell, but the 2YO stuff is just a touch taller. Both are incredible stands of switchgrass that exceed 7’.

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