I am getting ready to make my own stinger hooks for the fast approaching jigging season on the D and Sag. Should the stinger go behind the tail, even, or in front? Don’t want to take away action of the plastic. What do you think. Thanks for replies.
Stinger hook length
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Grandriverrat
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I agree with most of the guys here, 2.5" stinger, with size 12 eagle or vmc's, 15 lb floro for line (keeps it away from the jig). Only thing I do different is cyclop beads for attaching the stinger to the sickle, size 5/64ths. It's small enough that it blends into the hook, easy to loosen/reuse. If you do it, keep the open end of the bead to the jig, avoids the fraying. **** that reminds my I need to order more stuff I don't need! 
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What size crimp sleeves are you using with 15lb? I’ve been using 12lb fluro and mustad trebles. I tried to do 15lb but couldn’t get it to fit through the size 1 crimps. And I have like 500 size 1 crimps so I wasn’t about to not use them lol
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I prefer tying stingers by hand and skip the crimp altogether...never lost a stinger hook this way either...it looks cleaner then the crimp
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Hmm. I think the crimps make it look pretty clean and straight, no tangle or anything. I tied the hooks to the line by hand last season, but towards the end switched to crimping both ends and haven’t had an issue yet. And I caught a lot on the stinger, more than I thought I would
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I was planning on using crimp sleeves to tie stingers this year for the first time. Not really sure what ones I need as far as diameter , usually use 12 -15 # line. Any suggestions on what to get or where I should get them from?
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These short ones tied with stiff mono work well for me, especially if the receiver is dipped in tool handle rubber coating. Wyandotte Boat Launch sells these in various lengths; I get their 2” ones.
The stiff mono allows the treble to stand out above and away from the worm, reducing worm hookups and definitely eliminating any contact with bottom snags or zebra mussels. The rubber coating keeps the stinger in one place on the hook, fairly well; if you notice it has moved down, just re-adjust it and you’re back in business.
Good luck
Jay
OBTW, that is my favorite “go to” jig and color combo....thanks Brian Woodard!
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Cabelas keeps AFW sleeves in stock, I think the size you need is #1, but can’t swear to that until I get back out to the shop. If someone else doesn’t confirm PM me and I will get out there tomorrow.
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I crimp both ends and use 12lb fluro, with size 1 black sleeves
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I buy my sleeves from Jann’s Netcraft, unless you buy really early, the majority of Tackle shops around SE Michigan sell out of them very fast. I buy 1-200 every November/December timeframe
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No crimp sleeves for this guy, cyclops beads made for fly fishing, 5/64th. Works good with a single knot at the bead, 15lb slips on off easy and pinches to the jig tight, no movement at all
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68,226 Posts
We aren't dialing in seating depth for the tightest group. It's not that precise. Just make a jig board with a couple options for Wyandotte worms, fin S, and whatever else you want (suggestion would be a variety of "bulk" for different water conditions). +/- 1/2" of the plastic's tail is easily good enough.
Use whatever hook you like and pick your preference of tied or crimped stinger. Try both to see what you prefer. Size 8-10 treble. Nickel, bronze or red. The more important thing is keeping them sharp, Imo. I personally wouldn't spend a ton on them as you'll lose them anyway. I'm still using the 50 size 10 mustad I bought 3 yrs ago and have no complaints.
I know we all want to have the perfect rig but what it always comes down to here is what you are most comfortable and confident with. I'm sure this thread has helped more than just the OP, being it is the time of year the DR thread wakes up again.
Use whatever hook you like and pick your preference of tied or crimped stinger. Try both to see what you prefer. Size 8-10 treble. Nickel, bronze or red. The more important thing is keeping them sharp, Imo. I personally wouldn't spend a ton on them as you'll lose them anyway. I'm still using the 50 size 10 mustad I bought 3 yrs ago and have no complaints.
I know we all want to have the perfect rig but what it always comes down to here is what you are most comfortable and confident with. I'm sure this thread has helped more than just the OP, being it is the time of year the DR thread wakes up again.
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Here is exactly what I do using 15 pound test mono! Simple, and extremely effective.
Came up with this on my own and found it illustrated by Lance V.
http://www.walleyekid.com/stinger_hooks_
Stinger hooks will help you catch more walleye.
Learn to tie your own removable stinger hooks that work great for minnows and plastics. You should be able to tie your own with a good quality hook for less than 20 cents. Use the best quality hooks you can afford since many of your fish will come on the stinger early in the year.
Step-by-Step with Colored Line. Click Photo to See Larger Size Image.
Step 1 - Hooks and Line
Start with about a foot of 10lb or 12lb monofilament line. We prefer a stiffer line to keep the hook properly positioned relative to the bait. Get a good supply of quality #8 round bend treble hooks. It's a lot more productive if you tie 20 or 30 of these at one time.
Step 2 - Attach Hook to Line
Tie the hook to the line with the knot of your preference. We generally use a snell knot but you can also use a palomar knot. Here are some diagrams for each type of knot: Palomar Knot or Snell Knot
Step 3 - Determine Stinger Length
Tie an overhand knot in the line the length you want your stinger hook to be when finished. We tie different lengths from 2-4" depending on the size bait we are using. Experiment to find your preferred stinger hook length. Once you have the overhand knot tied you will cut the line about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch above the knot. This is called a tag end and is used to tighten and remove the stinger hook.
Step 4 - Building the Loop
Put the tag end knot in your left hand. Grab the treble hook with your right hand. Move the treble hook in a clockwise direction until a loop is formed. Critical Step: Bring the hook behind the loop and down so it ends up below the loop. Hold the entire set up in your left hand while you grab a jig with your right hand. This will take a little practice and can be frustrating.
Step 5 - Attach Stinger Hook to Jig
Here is the trick: pull the line behind the loop through the loop by using the hook of your jig. Pull slowly and the line will begin to tighten on the jig hook. You may need to reposition the hook and tag end knot slightly. Hold the tag end of the line so the overhand knot remains outside the loop as it closes. Once the stinger is attached to the jig simply pull the tag end line to open the loop and remove the stinger from the jig!
Step 6 - Getting Bait and Stinger on the Jig
Once you have removed the stinger hook you can put a plastic bait or a minnow on the hook. Simply slip the loop of the stinger over the jig hook and pull the treble hook line until the loop closes. Be careful not to hook yourself with the stinger as you pull the line. Your now ready to fish with your new removable stinger hook!
<----<<<
Came up with this on my own and found it illustrated by Lance V.
http://www.walleyekid.com/stinger_hooks_
Stinger hooks will help you catch more walleye.
Learn to tie your own removable stinger hooks that work great for minnows and plastics. You should be able to tie your own with a good quality hook for less than 20 cents. Use the best quality hooks you can afford since many of your fish will come on the stinger early in the year.
Step-by-Step with Colored Line. Click Photo to See Larger Size Image.
Step 1 - Hooks and Line
Start with about a foot of 10lb or 12lb monofilament line. We prefer a stiffer line to keep the hook properly positioned relative to the bait. Get a good supply of quality #8 round bend treble hooks. It's a lot more productive if you tie 20 or 30 of these at one time.
Step 2 - Attach Hook to Line
Tie the hook to the line with the knot of your preference. We generally use a snell knot but you can also use a palomar knot. Here are some diagrams for each type of knot: Palomar Knot or Snell Knot
Step 3 - Determine Stinger Length
Tie an overhand knot in the line the length you want your stinger hook to be when finished. We tie different lengths from 2-4" depending on the size bait we are using. Experiment to find your preferred stinger hook length. Once you have the overhand knot tied you will cut the line about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch above the knot. This is called a tag end and is used to tighten and remove the stinger hook.
Step 4 - Building the Loop
Put the tag end knot in your left hand. Grab the treble hook with your right hand. Move the treble hook in a clockwise direction until a loop is formed. Critical Step: Bring the hook behind the loop and down so it ends up below the loop. Hold the entire set up in your left hand while you grab a jig with your right hand. This will take a little practice and can be frustrating.
Step 5 - Attach Stinger Hook to Jig
Here is the trick: pull the line behind the loop through the loop by using the hook of your jig. Pull slowly and the line will begin to tighten on the jig hook. You may need to reposition the hook and tag end knot slightly. Hold the tag end of the line so the overhand knot remains outside the loop as it closes. Once the stinger is attached to the jig simply pull the tag end line to open the loop and remove the stinger from the jig!
Step 6 - Getting Bait and Stinger on the Jig
Once you have removed the stinger hook you can put a plastic bait or a minnow on the hook. Simply slip the loop of the stinger over the jig hook and pull the treble hook line until the loop closes. Be careful not to hook yourself with the stinger as you pull the line. Your now ready to fish with your new removable stinger hook!
<----<<<
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One thing I like to do when using live bait is to remove the stinger, put the minnow on, then put the stinger back on OVER top the minnow. It keeps the minnow on the hook longer. Another trick for that is to use a small scrap piece of plastic worm over top the minnow. Takes a little more time to secure the minnow with either method, but typically you'll save time in the end by not losing the minnow as often.
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Yep took me a longtime to learn this....thats the great thing about this site....u just shortened ur learning curve substantially compared to my hard knocks
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Yep that to vmc or gammi.....more important than color
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That too took me a while to learn
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Last three years have not used minnows at all just plastics and have done very well. Don't know what others here have experienced? By the way thanks for all of the replies did not think this thread would create this kind of interest. Come on open water!!!!
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thats similar to how I tie them...pretty quick to tie up a new one if you need to on the goHere is exactly what I do using 15 pound test mono! Simple, and extremely effective.
Came up with this on my own and found it illustrated by Lance V.
http://www.walleyekid.com/stinger_hooks_
Stinger hooks will help you catch more walleye.
Learn to tie your own removable stinger hooks that work great for minnows and plastics. You should be able to tie your own with a good quality hook for less than 20 cents. Use the best quality hooks you can afford since many of your fish will come on the stinger early in the year.
Step-by-Step with Colored Line. Click Photo to See Larger Size Image.
Step 1 - Hooks and Line
Start with about a foot of 10lb or 12lb monofilament line. We prefer a stiffer line to keep the hook properly positioned relative to the bait. Get a good supply of quality #8 round bend treble hooks. It's a lot more productive if you tie 20 or 30 of these at one time.
Step 2 - Attach Hook to Line
Tie the hook to the line with the knot of your preference. We generally use a snell knot but you can also use a palomar knot. Here are some diagrams for each type of knot: Palomar Knot or Snell Knot
Step 3 - Determine Stinger Length
Tie an overhand knot in the line the length you want your stinger hook to be when finished. We tie different lengths from 2-4" depending on the size bait we are using. Experiment to find your preferred stinger hook length. Once you have the overhand knot tied you will cut the line about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch above the knot. This is called a tag end and is used to tighten and remove the stinger hook.
Step 4 - Building the Loop
Put the tag end knot in your left hand. Grab the treble hook with your right hand. Move the treble hook in a clockwise direction until a loop is formed. Critical Step: Bring the hook behind the loop and down so it ends up below the loop. Hold the entire set up in your left hand while you grab a jig with your right hand. This will take a little practice and can be frustrating.
Step 5 - Attach Stinger Hook to Jig
Here is the trick: pull the line behind the loop through the loop by using the hook of your jig. Pull slowly and the line will begin to tighten on the jig hook. You may need to reposition the hook and tag end knot slightly. Hold the tag end of the line so the overhand knot remains outside the loop as it closes. Once the stinger is attached to the jig simply pull the tag end line to open the loop and remove the stinger from the jig!
Step 6 - Getting Bait and Stinger on the Jig
Once you have removed the stinger hook you can put a plastic bait or a minnow on the hook. Simply slip the loop of the stinger over the jig hook and pull the treble hook line until the loop closes. Be careful not to hook yourself with the stinger as you pull the line. Your now ready to fish with your new removable stinger hook!
<----<<<
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I usually don’t use minnows either, but I often have them on board. There are times when they are the ticket, especially early season. Luckily I fish with some guys that insist on using minnows all the time so it becomes pretty evident when I need to start tipping too.
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