I believe on mine the tip of the tail is about midpoint between the hook point and the bottom of the hook bend. Trying to hook the ones that just nip the tail.

You'll get varying opinions. But I doubt you could really tell a difference in catch rate unless you get to an extreme on either side.

 

Any place close to the end of the plastic when attached to the bend of the hook. Let it hang loose. No need to hook into the plastic. Thanks alot. Now I have to tie some myself!!! Won’t be long MS[emoji41]. Shrubby

 

I have found dat 2 1/8inch and 3inch covers de worm and finesse well

 

Jake pretty much nailed it. These are either 2 1/8 or 2 1/4?

 

I tie mine a 2 1/8" I do not like any longer as they induce more snags. This length also works to the split in a Fin-S and the back of a WW.

 

These short ones tied with stiff mono work well for me, especially if the receiver is dipped in tool handle rubber coating. Wyandotte Boat Launch sells these in various lengths; I get their 2” ones.

The stiff mono allows the treble to stand out above and away from the worm, reducing worm hookups and definitely eliminating any contact with bottom snags or zebra mussels. The rubber coating keeps the stinger in one place on the hook, fairly well; if you notice it has moved down, just re-adjust it and you’re back in business.

Good luck

Jay

OBTW, that is my favorite “go to” jig and color combo....thanks Brian Woodard!

 

I try and make mine to reach the fork of a fin-s. Also i dont like hooking mine in the plastic either just let them float with the plastic. Seem to get more bites and hookups that way.

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Any length in the 2.5 inch give or take will work fine. Don’t set that hook into the plastic just like quick said. Reason being that the hook is light and if that fish opens it’s gills to suck in that bait, that light hook will be the easiest thing for the fish to ingest even if it doesn’t commit to the bite. If it’s in your plastic and the fish doesn’t get the plastic in it’s mouth, No fish.

 

Thank you all so much for your replies. Next question red hook or bronze? Really just killing time until ice out! lol. No really just curious thanks.

 

Either. If it comes down to that you’re over thinking!!! Bonk head!!! Lol. Shrubby

 

Personal preference and confidence, that’s what it’s all about. Everyone has an opinion on the subject, but ultimately it’s what you have confidence in. I will tell you a little story though which raised my eyebrows, last fall while perch fishing with 4 guys on the boat, one of my buddies caught as many fish as the other three of us combined. Only difference, he was using red hooks, the rest of us had gold, just saying lol.

 

I don't care for the red hooks. Once they dull I can't touch them up as well as bronze. And red hooks seem more brittle. I've snapped more than a few of them. The bronze ones bend open and I can bend them back with pliers.

 

I do a bunch at 2.5” and a bunch at 3”

I’ve had them go past the bait a hair, and had them not make it to the tail of the bait. Still caught fish on em.


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Best stinger hooks I've used!! Very very sharp and sticky! Also very Strong

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Best stinger hooks I've used!! Very very sharp and sticky! Also very Strong View attachment 298317

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Yep that to vmc or gammi.....more important than color

 

I like those hooks as well in size 8 just dont like the price...I got 100 red hooks from ebay for 4$ hoping to test them out in a couple weeks...bring on the spring!

 

Lighter is definitely better, IMO. For one it isn't a cover up for imperfect boat control. I really believe the better you match the current, the more attractive the presentation.

 

I second the VMC. I tie mine at about 2.25, but I like to hook into the minnow. Tried both ways, and for me its a catch 22. In my experience "a dangling hook gathers more moss".
I don't miss that many, and catch a good percentage on the stinger alone.
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I second the VMC. I tie mine at about 2.25, but I like to hook into the minnow. Tried both ways, and for me its a catch 22. In my experience "a dangling hook gathers more moss".
I don't miss that many, and catch a good percentage on the stinger alone.
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Hey Joe! What size do you use?

 

FWIW, I prefer a stiffer line when tying stingers, like Trilene XT. The last batch I tied I used a softer, limp line and they tangled with the end of the plastic more often.

my 2 cents...

 

I agree with most of the guys here, 2.5" stinger, with size 12 eagle or vmc's, 15 lb floro for line (keeps it away from the jig). Only thing I do different is cyclop beads for attaching the stinger to the sickle, size 5/64ths. It's small enough that it blends into the hook, easy to loosen/reuse. If you do it, keep the open end of the bead to the jig, avoids the fraying. **** that reminds my I need to order more stuff I don't need!

 

I agree with most of the guys here, 2.5" stinger, with size 12 eagle or vmc's, 15 lb floro for line (keeps it away from the jig). Only thing I do different is cyclop beads for attaching the stinger to the sickle, size 5/64ths. It's small enough that it blends into the hook, easy to loosen/reuse. If you do it, keep the open end of the bead to the jig, avoids the fraying. **** that reminds my I need to order more stuff I don't need! [emoji57]

What size crimp sleeves are you using with 15lb? I’ve been using 12lb fluro and mustad trebles. I tried to do 15lb but couldn’t get it to fit through the size 1 crimps. And I have like 500 size 1 crimps so I wasn’t about to not use them lol


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I prefer tying stingers by hand and skip the crimp altogether...never lost a stinger hook this way either...it looks cleaner then the crimp

 

Hmm. I think the crimps make it look pretty clean and straight, no tangle or anything. I tied the hooks to the line by hand last season, but towards the end switched to crimping both ends and haven’t had an issue yet. And I caught a lot on the stinger, more than I thought I would


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I was planning on using crimp sleeves to tie stingers this year for the first time. Not really sure what ones I need as far as diameter , usually use 12 -15 # line. Any suggestions on what to get or where I should get them from?

 

Cabelas keeps AFW sleeves in stock, I think the size you need is #1, but can’t swear to that until I get back out to the shop. If someone else doesn’t confirm PM me and I will get out there tomorrow.

 

I buy my sleeves from Jann’s Netcraft, unless you buy really early, the majority of Tackle shops around SE Michigan sell out of them very fast. I buy 1-200 every November/December timeframe


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We aren't dialing in seating depth for the tightest group. It's not that precise. Just make a jig board with a couple options for Wyandotte worms, fin S, and whatever else you want (suggestion would be a variety of "bulk" for different water conditions). +/- 1/2" of the plastic's tail is easily good enough.

Use whatever hook you like and pick your preference of tied or crimped stinger. Try both to see what you prefer. Size 8-10 treble. Nickel, bronze or red. The more important thing is keeping them sharp, Imo. I personally wouldn't spend a ton on them as you'll lose them anyway. I'm still using the 50 size 10 mustad I bought 3 yrs ago and have no complaints.

I know we all want to have the perfect rig but what it always comes down to here is what you are most comfortable and confident with. I'm sure this thread has helped more than just the OP, being it is the time of year the DR thread wakes up again.

 

Here is exactly what I do using 15 pound test mono! Simple, and extremely effective.

Came up with this on my own and found it illustrated by Lance V.
http://www.walleyekid.com/stinger_hooks_
Stinger hooks will help you catch more walleye.
Learn to tie your own removable stinger hooks that work great for minnows and plastics. You should be able to tie your own with a good quality hook for less than 20 cents. Use the best quality hooks you can afford since many of your fish will come on the stinger early in the year.


Step-by-Step with Colored Line. Click Photo to See Larger Size Image.

Step 1 - Hooks and Line
Start with about a foot of 10lb or 12lb monofilament line. We prefer a stiffer line to keep the hook properly positioned relative to the bait. Get a good supply of quality #8 round bend treble hooks. It's a lot more productive if you tie 20 or 30 of these at one time.


Step 2 - Attach Hook to Line
Tie the hook to the line with the knot of your preference. We generally use a snell knot but you can also use a palomar knot. Here are some diagrams for each type of knot: Palomar Knot or Snell Knot


Step 3 - Determine Stinger Length
Tie an overhand knot in the line the length you want your stinger hook to be when finished. We tie different lengths from 2-4" depending on the size bait we are using. Experiment to find your preferred stinger hook length. Once you have the overhand knot tied you will cut the line about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch above the knot. This is called a tag end and is used to tighten and remove the stinger hook.


Step 4 - Building the Loop
Put the tag end knot in your left hand. Grab the treble hook with your right hand. Move the treble hook in a clockwise direction until a loop is formed. Critical Step: Bring the hook behind the loop and down so it ends up below the loop. Hold the entire set up in your left hand while you grab a jig with your right hand. This will take a little practice and can be frustrating.


Step 5 - Attach Stinger Hook to Jig
Here is the trick: pull the line behind the loop through the loop by using the hook of your jig. Pull slowly and the line will begin to tighten on the jig hook. You may need to reposition the hook and tag end knot slightly. Hold the tag end of the line so the overhand knot remains outside the loop as it closes. Once the stinger is attached to the jig simply pull the tag end line to open the loop and remove the stinger from the jig!


Step 6 - Getting Bait and Stinger on the Jig
Once you have removed the stinger hook you can put a plastic bait or a minnow on the hook. Simply slip the loop of the stinger over the jig hook and pull the treble hook line until the loop closes. Be careful not to hook yourself with the stinger as you pull the line. Your now ready to fish with your new removable stinger hook!
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thats similar to how I tie them...pretty quick to tie up a new one if you need to on the go

 

One thing I like to do when using live bait is to remove the stinger, put the minnow on, then put the stinger back on OVER top the minnow. It keeps the minnow on the hook longer. Another trick for that is to use a small scrap piece of plastic worm over top the minnow. Takes a little more time to secure the minnow with either method, but typically you'll save time in the end by not losing the minnow as often.

 

Last three years have not used minnows at all just plastics and have done very well. Don't know what others here have experienced? By the way thanks for all of the replies did not think this thread would create this kind of interest. Come on open water!!!!

 

FWIW, I prefer a stiffer line when tying stingers, like Trilene XT. The last batch I tied I used a softer, limp line and they tangled with the end of the plastic more often.

my 2 cents...

That too took me a while to learn

 

I usually don’t use minnows either, but I often have them on board. There are times when they are the ticket, especially early season. Luckily I fish with some guys that insist on using minnows all the time so it becomes pretty evident when I need to start tipping too.