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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, i sprayed a 1acre plot back in June, tilled about 2 weeks later in the first week of July. My original approach was going to be fertilize, till again and then plant. After picking up rocks last night i see there is a lot of new weed and grass germination.

So, now im wondering do i just let that stuff get some growth, hit with gly in another 2 weeks then fertilize when i seed and not till again?

Or should i fertilize and till it in now, then hope those new seeds germinate and i can spray before i plant? I am planning on half the plot of brassicas around Aug 11 and then the other half in dbltrees rye, oat pea mix around labor day weekend. I am in Central OH by the way.

I am spreading some amonium sulfate for N...i know urea has to be incorporate to reduce loss, but does AMS need to as well?
 

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That is a situation that plagues me every year. I usually don't disc up the ground until I am going to plant. After running the disc to satisfactory results I put down my fertilizer and disc it in. I change the angle on my disc to less aggressive. I just want to work it in the soil.
The I broadcast my seed. Weed growth usually isn't too bad.
If I were you I would spray now and then disc and plant at your suggested dates.

I could be wrong but I have never heard of AMS being used as a nitrogen source. Urea can be worked into the ground without the worry of nitrogen being released into the air. Try to time it with rain if you can.
Brassicas love nitrogen si don't skimp. My brassicas get 200#/acre of urea and that is 45% nitrogen along with 100#/acre of trip 19.

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I would disc now....and then only broadcast, cultipack, and then spray at seeding time.

This is my field I just planted into...it has beans that germinated a week ago, light weeds, leftover clover, and a lot of exposed soil. It was lightly disced about 5 weeks ago.



I broadcast my brassica mix into the field on Saturday...and sprayed at the same time. The beans are rr ready and what should be left after the spraying are the brassicas and beans. I fertilized at discing...and will fertilize 100#s per acre of 46-0-0 when the brassicas are 4-6" high, with rain.



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I have always disced the ground several times over a couple of week period. Not saying that is the best approach, just an option to consider. If you disc again now, that should kill the new recruits, and in another week or two, go over it another time and you should be more weed free than if you don't . Good luck.
 

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I would spray gly about week before you plant. Then I would spread the fertilizer the day you are planting. That day disc, broadcast the seed, and then cultipack. I never heard of AMS being used as fertilizer, but I use it when spraying gly to ensure it sticks to the weeds which helps kill themoff better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ammonium Sulfate is 21-0-0 where as Urea is 46-0-0 i believe. The only downfall to AMS is that it can slightly acidify your soil but my co-op told me that it wouldnt effect it at the low rate i am applying. He said its only a concern at high rate or multiple applications. All the locals around here dont have urea because its between seasons and they last winter they ordered enough just to get them through the spring hoping the price would be down later this year.
 

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In dry conditions, the less you disc, the better. Also, the sooner you pack the soil after discing, the better. Each time you turn the soil by discing you expose more surface area to the air, increasing moisture loss. Just breaking the "crust" of the soil can cause this, particularly with sandy soils. It's also important to remember that each time you disc, you WILL bring new weed seeds to the surface where they can germinate in your next crop.

Keeping all of that in mind, some folks down south offer alternative methods for seeding food plots in hot, droughty conditions. If possible, spray a week or so before using a no-till drill to plant your plot. If that is not an option, disc 2 weeks before you want to plant. Spray a few hours before you seed. Broadcast larger seed into the still-disced ground then cultipack. If you have smaller seeds, cultipack first, broadcast them on top, then pack again. Packing each field at least twice firms up the soil and creates small ridges that help retain water, when the rains finally DO come.

And they will. Right? :confused:
 

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help retain water, when the rains finally DO come.

And they will. Right? :confused:
HELP is on the way.

We got some good rains today in the Northern Lower, with more for the SLP forecast for tomorrow.:)

NB
 

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Taylor. AMS does not need incorporated to reduce volatility. The sulfur will also benefit our lighter soils. The only disadvantage is the higher use rate compared to urea.

Tim
 
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