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While sighting in guns this year, I came to the sad realization that I'm just getting too old to be running back and forth the see where our shots went. I have a good set of binoculars, but they don't quite do the job.
If I buy a spotting scope, I'd like to get one that i can use at the range with my rifle as well, so I'm looking for something that will let me see out to 250 yds.
Being a good dutchman, I'd like to get something decent without spending more than I have to.
I'd appreciate any advice that you guys can give me.
 

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While sighting in guns this year, I came to the sad realization that I'm just getting too old to be running back and forth the see where our shots went. I have a good set of binoculars, but they don't quite do the job.
If I buy a spotting scope, I'd like to get one that i can use at the range with my rifle as well, so I'm looking for something that will let me see out to 250 yds.
Being a good dutchman, I'd like to get something decent without spending more than I have to.
I'd appreciate any advice that you guys can give me.
Buy the best glass you can possibly afford. Back when I was really into rifle shooting I bought a bargain basement spotting scope from Cabela's for less than $100.00 (Tasco, Bushnell, Cabela's ???). Kind of looked like a telescoping scope you see in pirate movies (except it didn't telescope.) Nailed a target to a phone pole, drew some pencil diameter black circles on it, backed down the sidewalk about 50 - 60 yards - everything looked fuzzy, could just barely make out the target to say nothing of the "bullet" holes. Sent it back and upgraded to one with a spotting scope configuration and a rubberized camo coating. That one also went back. Its price - around $125.00. Luckily I found a Redfield spotting scope at a then local gun shop that was tired of having it sit around. $175.00 - fantastic scope, greatly clarity etc. etc. Save your $$$$ until you can buy something really good.

Hoppe's no.10
 

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Another thing you may consider while you are saving your hard-earned dollars for that GOOD QUALITY spotting scope(good advice by the way)is to use the Birchwood Casey "Sight-n-See" targets. They are the black ones that light up flourescent yellow the POI when the bullet strikes the target. They make looking at the target through binoculars or spotting scope a breeze. In fact at 100 yards I can see the POI with my naked eye. Try them and see for yourself. They really are an awesome target.
 

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Yeah, I am in the same boat as gunman. I really need a good spotting scope as well. I just dont want to break the bank. Probably looking at something less than $200.00. Not sure what decent soptting scope glass even costs??

Jeff
 

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Good spotting scopes cost many hundreds of dollars and they are needed to see tiny caliber holes on match targets at long long ranges. For most sight in work you do not need this. I have a very good Kowa scope with 60mm objective and 25X eyepiece; Buddies of mine have tried some bargain scopes of same size and magnification and cannot see squat with them. I used to have a Bushnell Spacemaster and it was pretty good.

For .30 caliber holes at 100 yards even a good pair of 10X binoculars should work OK, I can usually see my 7mm holes with the 9X riflescope at that range no problem.

I also strongly recommend the 'Sight-n-see' type targets that leave a colored blotch where the bullet hits - they are lifesavers at the range in low light or with tired eyes.

I have another method that works very well - hang the target face down [or use a plain piece of white wrapping paper] and stick a 2" colored label in the middle. You can buy the orange target dots in various sizes from 3/4" to 6" or find your own stickers at office supply stores, etc. It is MUCH easier to find your holes on a plain white background than a colored one; if you use a yellow or chartruese sticker you can easily see the holes in that as well.

I have no problem holding aim on the sticker, just be careful not to cant the rifle as you don't have any reference lines on the plain paper. You can mark a spot at the top center of the paper to use as a reference point; I always use a level when hanging targets so I don't line my crosshairs up canted.
 
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