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I think this is great! how come there's no forum or sub-forum for wood working or carving? or am I not seeing it? I think I'll give this fish decoy a shot also. Thanks for all the great pics! I have some more pics of my duck decoy progress but I didn't want to tread on the fish decoys.
 
Discussion starter · #44 · (Edited)
CaptainNorthwood
From what little knowledge I have of decoys, it's supposed to sink in a forward motion when you let it fall. somewhat of a slight nose down attitude.
Yes your correct. You can't tell in the pictures but the way I sometimes carve the heads I don't always have enough room so I will drill on an angle up into the head and keep drilling out the head until I have a big enough reservoir so the lead can fill up in the head. In the picture it looks like all my weight would be from the gill plate and back but theres actually lead almost all the way to the nose because I drill on an angle up into the head. I spend alot of time fine tuning each decoy so it swims correct. I rarely get it right the first time but PC11 and a drill bit can solve a lot of problems.:lol:

MB,
A subforum would be cool I just don't know if theres enough interest to warrant it. I'd be all for it for sure.

CMPDAD,
I melt all the lead so it pours nicely and distribute evenly into the decoy cavity I cut. Sometimes if it needs just a tiny amount of lead to balance it out correctly I will use little lead bb's I pour that I can drop into holes I drill for balancing. I use Createx airbrush paint cause all my decoys are now painted with an airbursh. After I paint them I put a regular krylon clear coat on them.
 
After you fill the cavity with lead you finish off the cavity with pc11? what is that and where do you get it? I have used body filler in the past and had some cracking issues with it. Do you have any cracking with the pc11.
I would post some pics of my decoys but lack the availbility of a digital camera.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
PB,
PC11 is a 2-part epoxy paste. I have used a few different types for body fillers and I just looked at the actual tube and this tube I've been using is PC7.....I thought it was PC11. I do believe theres a PC11 which is a marine grade filler though. Theres another type of wood filler called Quikwood and its worked good for me as well. Any hardware store should have PC11 or PC7.
 
I've used bondo, I've used each of the regular, The stuff with the fiberglass fibers mixed in (blue stuff) and the premium gold. The problem that im having is after its in the water for a while it will develop cracks around the edge of the cavity. seemed to happen more with the regular bondo more that the other two. The blue stuff with the fiberglass is alot heavier than the other two so some weight is added and it is also a PIA to sand back down. The gold seems to hold up fairly well so far and is easy to work with.

The cracking wont happen when the decoy is in warmer water like when you are doing final fin adjustments at home it just seems to happen after a day of spearing.

Any ideas or is this just normal wear and tear?
 
Yeah I was also woundering about the fins too, I carved one out and im at a standstill now, whats an avarage thickness of sheet metal for fins? Can I use a beer can for fins? I got a lot of those lying around?
 
currently i use a woodburning knife to make the fin inserts. before i had a wood burner, i heated up the end of a hack-saw blade with a torch. once your inserts are set, expoy in the fins and then pour the lead in.

i've used al flashing, copper flashing, brass plate, and tin cans for fins. copper and brass seem to work the best and are not as flimsy as al flashing or tin cans. if i had to choose one, copper would be my first choice.
 
Yeah I was also woundering about the fins too, I carved one out and im at a standstill now, whats an avarage thickness of sheet metal for fins? Can I use a beer can for fins? I got a lot of those lying around?
Beer cans are too flimsy, you'll need something stiffer, besides there worth 10 cents. LOL. Depending on the thickness, a sharp rasor blade can be used to cut the slit for the fins. I use sheet metal from home depot, but I know lots of guys like brass, copper, as mentioned. Cedar is pretty soft, so it doesn't take much to cut through it. A dremel also works good for cutting the slots for fins. Your decoys all look great guys. Keep up the good work. I got a few in the hopper that I need to get the air brush on.
 
Dog food cans work good. They have the lines in them if you want to put some detail on your fins. I've got a big pike decoy that I put spinner blades in. Kind of heavy, but the decoy is 18in long. As for shrinkage with the bondo, are you putting a sealer over the decoy before painting. I've used exterior house paint for primer on some dekes, then painted them, then put a clear coat on top of that.
 
Thought you guys would appreciate this.

Today was my first day spearing (more can be read in another thread called Pike Spearing 101), but yesterday I finished my first decoy. Having troubles uploading photos, usually don't have a problem.

Anyway, slipped the decoy in the water along with a shiner. 10 minutes later had the elusive Northern starring my decoy eye to eye. What a thrill. A bonus was I speard and iced him ;).

Thanks for the help guys!
 
Thought you guys would appreciate this.

Today was my first day spearing (more can be read in another thread called Pike Spearing 101), but yesterday I finished my first decoy. Having troubles uploading photos, usually don't have a problem.

Anyway, slipped the decoy in the water along with a shiner. 10 minutes later had the elusive Northern starring my decoy eye to eye. What a thrill. A bonus was I speard and iced him ;).

Thanks for the help guys!
Congrats.:)

My son helped me put out my permament shanty out on the lake today. So we fished for a few hours after setting up. He got his first ever with a spear after he watched the pike (29") assault my decoy (first fish for that decoy too) And took his first with a tip-up (31").
 
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