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i made my first kill sat, i have a few questions maybe some one can answer for me. my shot placement was great, even surprised me, but my arrow did not pass through. it was a 15 yard shot, no bone was hit, so why didn't it pass through? i use the muzzy bone crusher broad heads, my arrow stuck in his side as he ran off, no blood trail. it was kinda scary trying to find him with nothing to look for. i found him though. my bow is set at 65 pounds with a 80% let off. am i shooting to light? i'd like to have all shots "pass through" can any one help?
 

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Sharp broadheads? Are you using those serrated blades? I believe those to have a tendacy to snag on the hair and greatly reduce the arrow speed. Try switching to a cut on impact broadhead.
 

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Tell us more about the shot, what angle if any, were you in a tree stand on the gorund? Was the deer quarting away or towards you? Where exactly did you hit the deer?

Tell us more about your set up, what kind of bow, what kind and size arrows and broadhead weight.

Also did you test shoot your broadheads? Did you tune your bow? are your broadheads hitting the target straight or do they end up angling in one way or the other?
 

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You beat me to it Hangoo
 

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If it stuck in the side and not the shoulder you probably had erratic arrow flight. That will really put a damper on your penetration. Lots and lots of reasons for you to have poor arrow flight. Branches, weeds in front of the deer, hit your arm,
bad release.
 

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I looked on Muzzy's site and couldn't find anything about Bone Crusher broadheads.
Are you sure they were Muzzy's?
What diameter?

The only bone crusher broadheads I have seen, (I don't think that they're made by muzzy) are flat at the point and real ugly looking. I know one model is serrated too. If so, that is why you didn't get a pass through.

Search here for broadheads and you'll have enough to read for two weeks.

P.S. If you want to skip the long read, get some Steelforce non-serrated and you'll get the pass throughs you want ;)
 

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You know what I think???

There is no better place to discuss hunting then here! All you guy's are so willing to help people out and give good insight to the WHAT'S / WHEN'S / WHERE'S / WHY'S and HOW'S of hunting.

I APPLAUD YOU ALL AND LET'S KEEP HELPING PEOPLE OUT!

GOOD JOB!:D
 

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Draw weight does not directly reflect into how much energy a bow stores and an increased let-off actually can negatively affect how much of this energy is translated into the arrow.

A properly tuned arrow will have better flight characteristics and maintain higher energy down range (even at 15yds), also centering the energy down the spine of the arrow on impact.

A heavier arrow will have poorer trajectory but potentially higher penetration. Changing one variable usually changes them all. (KE = M x V)

Maybe someone has an online resource that gives a better explanation...this one is OK.

energy
 

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Also I forgot to ask, fingers or release?

P.S. I have a Steelforce and Gold Tip combination that is waiting for deer number six this year, hopefully :)

Dawg, in that formula velocity is squared. It all boils down to one thing. You want the heaviest arrow you can get that doesn't slow down your bow. That will give you the greatest kinetic energy possible.
 

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Possibly dull blades? Did the limb/string hit something (branches,clothing etc..)on the release? Definately not a bad shot as you were able to recover the deer. Seen deer hit with arrows that did not pass thru and have caused some SERIOUS damage to the deer insides, so it does have its advantages, keeps the wound channel open and a steady blood trail. Anyhow, congrats on your deer!!!:D >-----< AL
 

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We definitely need more information. Tree stand height would be important too. Also, angle of the deer when you shot and where he was hit. <----<<<
 

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Answer a few questions for us, it may help us pin point a possible problem.

What grain broadhead?

What length arrow and size?

Over draw?

Have you paper tested/tuned your hunting arrow set up?

Have you measured draw weight on a scale?

Vanes or feathers?

Light hunting arrows don't penetrate well. Improperly tuned arrows lose energy fast if there is any sideways movement. 15 yards is close and the fletching may not have had enough time to correct the arrow flight. Lack of stabilization or tuning of your arrow combo is my guess.

But back to the important part, congratulations on your first bow kill.
 

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Without more info I would have to lean towards arrow flight and the position the arrow was in when it made contact with the animal. If your arrows are wobbling/porpoising during flight you will loose a great deal of energy. If your arrow isn't straight when it makes contact the energy that is still in the arrow wouldn't be displaced along the length of the shaft but more across the shaft which wouldn't push the arrow through. JMTC

Dan
 

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I don't mean to ruffle any feathers, but Kinetic Energy= .5*m*v^2

that being said, in a very intelligent conversation with a physics professor, he says there is another energy called pass-through energy. This is closer to momentum which is m*v. That being said i can't remember the formula for that, as it was almost over my head in physics jargon.

Pulling 65 at 15 yards, if you do not hit anything on its way through, if things were set up correctly, with any of the higher quality broadheads you should be lookin at least to a close to full blow-through with today's bows.

I'd have to believe in either dull blades, erratic arrow flight which just kills the stored energy of the arrow, or it hit the opposite shoulder.

Just my .02, god knows i've been wrong in the past :D

steve
 

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I believe at that distance there are only 3 things that could have prevented a pass through.

1. Absolutely TERRIBLE arrow flight caused by poor tuning (would have to be really, really bad at 15 yards) hitting your sleeve, poor release, etc.

2. You hit the opposite shoulder.

3. A poorly tuned bow AND mechanical broadhead. (No I ain't slamming mechanicals but if you're going to use them you better make SURE your bow is tuned well).

Even a dull broadhead and a light arrow out of a well tuned bow would get a pass through on a deer at that range if all you got was ribs.

Also way to many guys don't wear an arm guard when hunting because they never hit their arm while practicing. They fail to remember those hunting clothes sometimes bunch up at just the wrong time and results in far more bad shots than people realize. An arm guard prevents that from happening.
 

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Mutt, as a side note, other than puffy sleeves, shouldn't proper form render an arm guard unnecessary?

As I have been instructed, good position of my hand and wrist (relaxed crook of pointer and thumb on my grip), and a slightly bent elbow, takes my forearm out of the path of the bowstring.

Or is this just an individual style issue, rather than a "proper form" issue?
 

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Yep, proper form will surely keep you from hitting your arm however most hunting shots don't lend themselves to proper form. Also even with a fairly tight fitting sweater sleeves can (and do) bunch up, jacket sleeves are notorious for puffing up when you have to twist, turn or lean for a shot in a hunting situation. That's not the time to have to check to see if your form will keep your string from slapping your sleeve. It only takes a slight slap (often unnoticed) on a puffy sleeve to send an arrow on a whacky flight. An arm guard just helps eliminate the potential for that problem.
 

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I read ya
 

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Just my 2 cents..... Go with Thunderhead broadheads. They tune well, fly well and do the job. Give's you a quick and humane kill.
 
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