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Has anyone used roundup on old hay fields (so old it is baically weeds now) and can answer me this?
If I roundup that field a few times during the growing season, what will I end up with around Aug. 1. ?

Will the ground cover be so delapitated that I would be able to use a small 6 1/2 foot disk behind my 8N and get it pretty clean?

If so would I be able to get a 3" deep base?
I have pretty heavy soil guessing from the tree planting I have done here that I have about 3-4 inches of top soil before getting down to a more clay like sub soil. with plenty of rock, more than I want to pick this year. I am shooting to put winter wheat in this field and it is totally for deer not anything else?
I am trying to get around turning the soil over for the obvious reasons (rock).
Getting back to the original question, what would the field look like after roundup a few times? How fast do old weeds break down, I will brush hog it first since I do not have a mower yet.
Thank you.
 

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You may want to do a September spraying in your weed field before planting. You'll still get more weeds after August 1st. I sprayed some areas 3 times last year to prepare for this year's planting. My final spraying was in mid September. This will kill more weeds and still give you time to plant your wheat.
 

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My brush hog is my favorite implement of distruction.

I'm faced with a real short growthing season because the snow stays till mid April most years in my plots. To jump start your short season try:

Brush hogging the existing hay field right after you lose your snow and before the frost comes out of the ground. Set your blades so they chop everything off just above the frozen ground.

After things start to green up, spray with round up or it's generic equal. Also use sprayable ammonium sulfate with your round up. It's something like 25-0-0 folial fertliizer to get everything growing well to uptake the round up.

You may need to add weight to your disc if your sod is real thick or even plow it under then disc. A 3pt used 1 or 2 bottom plow is pretty cheap. Once you set it up correctly you can really rip up some sod.
 

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IME if you have really thick sod, even with everything dead up top, those light weight discs have a really tough job of ground preparation. Adding weight will help, setting the blades to a steeper angle and using notched blades will help in ripping up sod. The time it takes depends a lot on the vegetation to be tilled under, the type of soils and moisture (after a good rain is better). But it aint gonna be "once over and done". I have a 6 1/2 Ford disc pulled by a 4x4 tractor.

Time is a big factor for most of us , thats why I'm looking for a rototiller come springtime. IME tillers to a better job and in much less time. Maybe you could rent a tiller? Good luck.

Natty B.
 

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One trick for easy tillage is to spray in the fall and the following spring till no deeper than 4 inchs deep. this fall spraying will give the root structure plenty of time to decompose. If you have an old legume field you should spray 2-4-D along with round up if you want a clean field to start fresh.

If you want to plant wheat in the early fall, you can spray a heavy dose of the same formula as mentioned above in this old hay field in mid May then again in mid August. wait two weeks (the first of september) and do your first tillage pass along with broadcasting the wheat and fertilzer work this in with an additional tilllage pass and follow with a cultipacking. Now sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

One more tip you have killed the unwanted weeds and grass with the spraying. The roots are decomposed and you do not need to go over and over again many times with your tillage passes as you would when tilling fresh grass or hay sod. Just till enough to see a fair amount of dirt broadcast the seed and fertilizer, till one more time and cultipack.

If you want to rejuvenate this old hay field without any tillage Spray round up only around mid May. followed immediately with a broadcasting of your selected legume and fertilizer. No guarntee of success with this method , but what do you have to lose? you can always follow up later on with conventional tillage if it didn't work.

Keep the fun in hunting!
 
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