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Rough start.

2263 Views 35 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Edgewalker7
I'm new to fly fishing and having bad time starting out. Ordered a reddington chromer that broke in half on the 3rd cast. Went to Nomad anglers in GR and they sold me an echo 10'10" #8. Now after a month of waiting for shipping, trying to research and buy the right stuff, going to fly shops. I can't cast to save my life. It's like the shooting head is just stuck in the water. It's a 425 grain skagit max. I'm gonna try the 575 skagit max short I ordered on accident for the now broken chromer. Any tips for a total beginner? Or anyone near that show me how to do this? Tried some fly shops but casting classes were cancelled due to covid.
Thanks all the help guys.

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Thanks for the help. I'll do that.

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On your particular setup, i can’t confirm exactly. All rod manufacturers are differen’t but generally speaking, yes, tip weight as well as actual line weight, together, make up your “grain window” weight. I too, would suggest practicing w a normal type spey fly w the hook cut off. Once your casting is dialed in then you start experimenting w dumbell eyed types, if that is your thing. Sign up on the Speypages. It’s free and a wealth of knowledge
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Hey Man,

Proper disclosure - I rep Echo for the upper Midwest. The best head for that SR is the Skagit Scout from Airflo in a 510gr or something similar (OPST, SA etc). You want a SHORT Skagit head. This will help you tremendously in your casting.

As for the tip...you want the length of your tippet/tip to be within 2-3’ of the length of your rod...you are there. The other general “rule” is that you want the total length of your head/tip/leader to be approx 2.5x length of your rod. A 15’ head, plus a 10’ tip, plus a 2-3’ leader would be perfect.

Get a short Skagit system for the SR. For the Chromer, that Skagit Max should work better because it’s a longer rod.

Finally, disregard tip weight. Skagit casting is also known as “water load,” casting...meaning the sink tip anchors the d-loop. The only weight that matters is the head weight because this is the only weight in the air when you’re loading the rod to cast. Another type of casting is Scandinavian style, or “touch and go,” casting. In this type of casting your sink tip or polyleader weight should be included in your overall system weight. But we can save that discussion for a future day.

Good luck in your endeavors...spey and switch style casting are among my passions in this sport.

Cheers.

Phil
Awesome help! Thank you!
Hey Man,

Proper disclosure - I rep Echo for the upper Midwest. The best head for that SR is the Skagit Scout from Airflo in a 510gr or something similar (OPST, SA etc). You want a SHORT Skagit head. This will help you tremendously in your casting.

As for the tip...you want the length of your tippet/tip to be within 2-3’ of the length of your rod...you are there. The other general “rule” is that you want the total length of your head/tip/leader to be approx 2.5x length of your rod. A 15’ head, plus a 10’ tip, plus a 2-3’ leader would be perfect.

Get a short Skagit system for the SR. For the Chromer, that Skagit Max should work better because it’s a longer rod.

Finally, disregard tip weight. Skagit casting is also known as “water load,” casting...meaning the sink tip anchors the d-loop. The only weight that matters is the head weight because this is the only weight in the air when you’re loading the rod to cast. Another type of casting is Scandinavian style, or “touch and go,” casting. In this type of casting your sink tip or polyleader weight should be included in your overall system weight. But we can save that discussion for a future day.

Good luck in your endeavors...spey and switch style casting are among my passions in this sport.

Cheers.

Phil
Thanks for that. I did order a 400 grain commando head yesterday, should be here tuesday. If that doesn't work I'll try the 510 as you recommend. I went out this morning and the head does seem way too long. I can't get the fly a rod length from me like they do in the videos. And when I try to roll cast it goes about to the tip and the fly kinda just bounces up and back down.

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Hey Man,

Proper disclosure - I rep Echo for the upper Midwest. The best head for that SR is the Skagit Scout from Airflo in a 510gr or something similar (OPST, SA etc). You want a SHORT Skagit head. This will help you tremendously in your casting.

As for the tip...you want the length of your tippet/tip to be within 2-3’ of the length of your rod...you are there. The other general “rule” is that you want the total length of your head/tip/leader to be approx 2.5x length of your rod. A 15’ head, plus a 10’ tip, plus a 2-3’ leader would be perfect.

Get a short Skagit system for the SR. For the Chromer, that Skagit Max should work better because it’s a longer rod.

Finally, disregard tip weight. Skagit casting is also known as “water load,” casting...meaning the sink tip anchors the d-loop. The only weight that matters is the head weight because this is the only weight in the air when you’re loading the rod to cast. Another type of casting is Scandinavian style, or “touch and go,” casting. In this type of casting your sink tip or polyleader weight should be included in your overall system weight. But we can save that discussion for a future day.

Good luck in your endeavors...spey and switch style casting are among my passions in this sport.

Cheers.

Phil
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Edgewalker,

I might be able to get free next Sunday afternoon if you have time to get to Newaygo to spend some time casting. I’m not skilled but did get the hang of it after this trip where we dealt with some pretty brutal wind. I’m at the end of the video in the tan jacket and the very average sized sea trout vs. the monsters in the first half.

If the weather is good next weekend, I’m going to try to get to Newaygo.

cheers

Thanks for that. I did order a 400 grain commando head yesterday, should be here tuesday. If that doesn't work I'll try the 510 as you recommend. I went out this morning and the head does seem way too long. I can't get the fly a rod length from me like they do in the videos. And when I try to roll cast it goes about to the tip and the fly kinda just bounces up and back down.

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Sure could. I get weekends off so I'm free then. I got a friend that lives near hardy dam, used to go up there and croton all the time.

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Edgewalker,

I might be able to get free next Sunday afternoon if you have time to get to Newaygo to spend some time casting. I’m not skilled but did get the hang of it after this trip where we dealt with some pretty brutal wind. I’m at the end of the video in the tan jacket and the very average sized sea trout vs. the monsters in the first half.

If the weather is good next weekend, I’m going to try to get to Newaygo.

cheers

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I’ll message you as the week shakes out and we get a sense of the weather. Sub 30 degrees and wind = misery. :-0
Sure could. I get weekends off so I'm free then. I got a friend that lives near hardy dam, used to go up there and croton all the time.

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I really appreciate the help. Thank you.

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I’ll message you as the week shakes out and we get a sense of the weather. Sub 30 degrees and wind = misery. :-0
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Made a little progress. I put the rio Skagit max short 575 back on and wasn't doing very well. I had a big ball of yarn with no hook for a fly so I could see it good. I ended cutting that off and just casted with nothing on the leader. Then I was actually able to cast out. My distance and accuracy was getting a little better but I got cold and ice was plugging the guides so I called it. We're my flies to big to begin with?


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Yes ! Ripping one of those god awful skull helmet dealios out of the water will only compound your problems. Plus, if you are throwing 10’ of t8 you most likely don’t need to get down any more.
Lol [emoji1787] as long as I don't have to buy $30-$60 flies. Seems every time I need something it's that much.


Would these flies work? Or what's good for steelhead?


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Yes ! Ripping one of those god awful skull helmet dealios out of the water will only compound your problems. Plus, if you are throwing 10’ of t8 you most likely don’t need to get down any more.
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I silver car key w a hook attached will catch steelhead. Cigarette butts catch steelhead. My point was, for a new spey caster, don’t put yourself behind the 8 ball immediately, by trying to cast something like that. Proper me ding can get you in the zone w out needing the lead/tungsten
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I had no clue. That's just the 4 flies they picked for me at Great Lakes Fly shop

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I silver car key w a hook attached will catch steelhead. Cigarette butts catch steelhead. My point was, for a new spey caster, don’t put yourself behind the 8 ball immediately, by trying to cast something like that. Proper me ding can get you in the zone w out needing the lead/tungsten
Those are great flies i just wouldn’t attempt that skull helmet type being new to spey.
I had no clue. That's just the 4 flies they picked for me at Great Lakes Fly shop

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Keep practicing. Don’t be like me. I’ve shelved my switch rod. In fact- am willing to sell or trade for a 5-6 weight standard fly rod. It’s a Scott L2H 11’ five weight. Got a 375 commando head too. Just saying. I’d rather dunk spawn and sip coffee on a beach
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I already got about $700 bucks into this. No turning back now.

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Keep practicing. Don’t be like me. I’ve shelved my switch rod. In fact- am willing to sell or trade for a 5-6 weight standard fly rod. It’s a Scott L2H 11’ five weight. Got a 375 commando head too. Just saying. I’d rather dunk spawn and sip coffee on a beach
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