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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had my rod holder screw/knobs come loose from the tapped bases. I did a little research on using thread locker on the stainless screws that thread into the aluminum bases. It doesn’t seem to be recommended. Not even medium strength. I have always checked them for tightness before leaving home and apron arrival at the launch I was missing one or they backed out to the point of being loose! Now this doesn’t happened often but my rod holders are expensive! The last thing I want to find at the launch is I’m missing a holder. Does anybody have a suggestion? someone said silicone might work on the threads. I would appreciate any ideas.
 

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What kind of rod holders are they and how are they attached to the boat? If they vibrate a lot going down the road, the threaded holes in the aluminum may be wallowed out and not engaging the stainless fastener properly anymore.

I have 16 Berts ratcheting rod holders and have not had an issue with the screws loosening up.

I ditched the plastic end caps and machined new ones out of aluminum flat stock. The rod holders have no way of coming off unless a thru bolt shears off first.

Blue Loctite is fine for stainless screws in aluminum. If worried about it, use purple Loctite (222) which was designed for aluminum. The problem with stainless and aluminum is galling and you won't get that as long as you use hand tools and go slow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What kind of rod holders are they and how are they attached to the boat? If they vibrate a lot going down the road, the threaded holes in the aluminum may be wallowed out and not engaging the stainless fastener properly anymore.

I have 16 Berts ratcheting rod holders and have not had an issue with the screws loosening up.

I ditched the plastic end caps and machined new ones out of aluminum flat stock. The rod holders have no way of coming off unless a thru bolt shears off first.

Blue Loctite is fine for stainless screws in aluminum. If worried about it, use purple Loctite (222) which was designed for aluminum. The problem with stainless and aluminum is galling and you won't get that as long as you use hand tools and go slow.
Howdy QA, The holders are Berts, I wish I could use a nut and bolt combo but unfortunately not with this application. I have 2 stantions I use for my rigger board, but when I don’t need riggers the board comes off and I had the tops drilled and tapped for the Berts. So come salmon time the Berts need to be removable. So are you saying the purple would allow for removal and would I need to chase the threads each time? ( once a year)
 

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Howdy QA, The holders are Berts, I wish I could use a nut and bolt combo but unfortunately not with this application. I have 2 stantions I use for my rigger board, but when I don’t need riggers the board comes off and I had the tops drilled and tapped for the Berts. So come salmon time the Berts need to be removable. So are you saying the purple would allow for removal and would I need to chase the threads each time? ( once a year)
Blue and purple Loctite would both allow for easy removal. Purple may be a little more user friendly in aluminum but you will likely have to order it. The Ace in town doesn't stock it. You should not need to chase the threads with a tap after removal but after a couple years the Loctite may build up and need to be chased if you reapply.

Do your rod holders install into a track or are you screwing the bases down onto something else directly without a track? As designed, Berts are meant to install into a track so the fasteners bind up. If you are direct mounting, I think you might want thru-holes in the rod holders so screw threads don't bind up from misalignment.

If track mounted and the threaded holes are wallowed out from vibration, you may need to drill them out to 5/16 and upsize the fasteners.
 

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Heli-coil inserts, these are used instead of tapping Aluminum in industrial standards.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Blue and purple Loctite would both allow for easy removal. Purple may be a little more user friendly in aluminum but you will likely have to order it. The Ace in town doesn't stock it. You should not need to chase the threads with a tap after removal but after a couple years the Loctite may build up and need to be chased if you reapply.

Do your rod holders install into a track or are you screwing the bases down onto something else directly without a track? As designed, Berts are meant to install into a track so the fasteners bind up. If you are direct mounting, I think you might want thru-holes in the rod holders so screw threads don't bind up from misalignment.

If track mounted and the threaded holes are wallowed out from vibration, you may need to drill them out to 5/16 and upsize the fasteners.
Not using the tracks but the surface is approximately 3x6x1/2 inch. I could maybe cut down some track to fit but kinda wanted to keep it simple! Again no room for nut and bolts, I do believe it is a vibration issue
 

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The Heli-coil kits have everything. You drill out the existing tap with the drill they tell you. You tap ( special) the Aluminum, screw in the insert and bust off the bottom tang.

Here is a example, I am sure Autozone would have it.


If vibration is your trouble why not put a spring between the bolt head and plate. You would then tension to the root thread.
 

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Not using the tracks but the surface is approximately 3x6x1/2 inch. I could maybe cut down some track to fit but kinda wanted to keep it simple! Again no room for nut and bolts, I do believe it is a vibration issue
If the holes in the Berts rod holders are threaded and the holes in the 3x6x1/2" piece are also threaded, the threads in both are fighting each other as it is very unlikely both threads are clocked the same. So the bolt is binding up when you assemble the 2 together and the rod holder base isn't netting out against the 3x6 piece. The bolt isn't applying clamp load like it is supposed to. Not sure if a Helicoil will improve that situation or not.

I think a thru-hole in the Berts holders is what you want. Then the rod holders will be pinched between the bolt head and 3x6 piece.
 

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I use blue loc tite on anything attached to my boat, never had an issue. If you need to remove just put a little heat on the bolt head or thread area and they will come rite out. Same for any loc tite.
 

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Used to be a product called vibratite. I used it when i did machine building. Coat screw let it cure, install screw. Its a rubberized coating so it inhibits vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would like to thank all of guys for you input, I will consider each one of them. The support is so awesome on this site. I hope you all have a great summer👍
 

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The Bert’s set screws are not fit for trailering. It took losing a downrigger and swivel base on Rockport Road near Alpena to learn that lesson. Install the track end caps as insurance.

Even with the end caps, don’t trailer with the Bert’s stuff on the gunwale. You’ll lose it on the highway, or when you stop for gas and go in to get coffee.
 
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