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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(posted this earlier this morning, don't know where it's at :confused: )

I would like to build a rod of my own. I have never done this, but my dad said that he has all the material to do it. I would ask him to do it, but would like to do it myself, on my own. I am thinking of a 10' maybe a little longer to 10' 6."

Questions; (This is for a Fly Rod)
1) How do you figure the distance between each guide?
2) How do you find the which side the spine is on?
3) AFter finding the spine, should I mark it somehow?
4) As for the cork handle, and reel seat, how do I go about this?



Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow. Just doing a quick read of the two link's, I see that I have alot to consider before getting to it. Thanks guy's. Ok, one quick question; The rod that I would like to build is going to be either a 7wt, 10' or 10' 6" fly rod. What action would this be considerd?

Thanks again.
 

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I guess that would depend on the Modulus of graphite, the taper of the rod blank and thickness of the rod blank walls.
Giving a two rod blanks have the same taper and wall thickness
The 53 million modulus will be faster than a 35 million modulus
normally

Good Luck
OSD.
 

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that is a rule of thumb, but at the same time, not necessarily correct, as a lot has to do with the resin used in the blank.

dale, if you pm me your number or maybe i'll talk to you online i can help ya out.

steve
 

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well, maybe i'll make a quick post.....

1.distance between each guide..... there is a chart that you can get from st. croix to get you in a ballpark as to what size and where to put your guides. That being said, a static test is best to determine where to put your guides. I would start with the st. croix recommendation (usually pretty good), then start moving them around a bit.... put line though the guides (taped on). Generally you want a nice sweeping look without the line hitting the blank or any sharp angles. Basically what looks good generally is good.

2. Spine.... I always tape the butt of each section just a bit above the bottom. The ends without wraps and finish are relatively weak and this helps me have more faith about not busting it out. Put the butt on a flat object and spin the blank, you will feel a thump thump type idea where the blank does not want to spin. mark the topside of the blank where the biggest thump occurs (where the blank resists spinning the most). This is "opposite" the natural spine and where you want to attach your guides.

3. I always put a couple peices of tape wrapped around the blank and mark the spine with a pen.

4.The rod handle assembly is longer than I want to type.... I can't tell ya all the secrets or i wouldn't have anything to do :D

I'll prolly get to your last question tomorrow.

steve
 

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This thread has really helped me out!

I have a stack of gift certificates that I'm looking to blow on rod building gear. I've spent the last few days checking this stuff out and I plan to have everything I need to get strted by next week.

I'll start off making some spinning rods from cheap blanks and then work my way up to some nicer fly rods.
 

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Quick notes:

2. When spinning the blank put a bend in it.... that is how you feel the thump thump type idea.

what can i say? it was early in the morning when i typed out my last response.

I'll get to your grip and seat ? a bit later.

steve
 

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If you have any question at all, try rodbuilding.org. There is absolutely nothing that the guys there can not answer.

Ypsi, if you are looking for cheap blanks, go to mudhole.com, and click on specials. They have a bunch of rods that are priced at like $5-$10. I have one that I use for pike and bass, and its worth way more than the $5 that I paid for it. They've also got some good deals on cork. Good Luck!
 

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Oh yea, flyrod4steelhead, for the handle:

You will want to select a reel seatthat is beefy enough for what you are fishing for...no slinding hood reelseats for a 7 wt. Struble and REC make some awesome wood seats, but you will surely pay for them. If you want to keep the price down, look for solid aluminum reel seats. A company you will soon become familiar with, Pac Bay, makes some affordable wood reelseats. For the price, AR6 cannot be beat. That should be adaquate for a 7 wt. Look at mudhole for this.

For the grip, it is mainly just personal preferance. Some people like western style grips, and soem liek full wells. A cigar shaped grip is also an option.

Ok, for the instalation:

-Your reelseat should be larger than your blank(check to make sure. Can cause a problem).

-Your handle will be smaller than the blank. This need to be "Reamed" out. You can buy special rod building reamers, or you can just use a round file. On my first rod, I actually used a long serated knife:D. Ream out the cork untill it fits snuggly on the blank. Hint: make sure if you are using a tapered reamer to file out the cork from the bottom so that the tapers match. It you do it from the top of the grip, the bottom will be tight and the top loose.

-Once the handle is sized up, its time to glue them to the blank. Figure out how long your reelseat, and grip will be combined. Mark this out on the blank. With rough sandpaper or a wire brush, rough up the finish where the handle will be. This will make it so that you are gluing your components to the rod blank instead of just the outer layer of finish. Where the reelseat will be, put on masking tape arbors to fill in the extra space.

-Ok, time for the epoxy. Make sure to chose a strong epoxy. No five minute stuff. Mix up a good amount of it with a popsicle stick(or whatever you prefer). You are going to pretty much just going to spread the epoxy all over where the grip will be. Don't put too much because it you ghave a good fit, much of it will just be pushed back and make a mess. Once the epoxy is on the rod, pull the grip down slowly and turn it back and fourth while you do so. Get it to where you need it and clean up the excess epoxy. For the reelseat arbors, put epoxy all the tape; on the sides top in between, etc. You don't want it spinning. Once tis is done, slide the reel seat on while turning it from side to side. Get it butted up against the grip and clean p the excess. Then just glue on the fighting butt or end cap and you are good. It is a good idea to periodicaly spin the rod so that the epoxy does not accumulate in one spont and seap through between the reelseat and grip.

**make sure to have some denatured alchohol to clean up the epoxy. This is invaluable to me.

Hope this helps!
 

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thanks foxy, i was gonna get to it, but dreaded it... LOL.

that should get ya started.... undoubtedly you are gonna have some questions, i can't recommend rodbuilding.org enough, they help me out whenever i have a question, well, other than what blank is used in the HMG85 walleye angler rods, but i don't think anyone knows that to tell me, lol.

steve
 

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This is going to be my winter project as well. I am going to start off with some ice fishing rods and then move to some rods that I can use for trolling off of planer boards.

If you are interested in building your own rod wrapping stand here are some plans.

Rod wrapping stand

And a motorized rod finish stand:

Rod dryer

I followed the directions for the rod wrapping stand and it was simple / fun. I need to get the rod dryer done.
 

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No problem MSU.:)

TBone, that wrapper looks cool. You will find multiple tread tensioners(sp?) very helpful when you get on to butt wraps and complicated trip wraps. Another nice thing are the adjustable supports. Since I am too cheap to buy power wraper and so bad at building stuff, I have to deal with stationary supports. It sucks.
 

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Here's my plan so far, tell me what you guys think:

Since my gift certificates are from Cabela's, I'm looking at their rod wrapper,
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...ntent/Pod/01/10/74/p011074ii01.jpg&hasJS=true

and their drying motor setup,
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...ntent/Pod/00/35/13/p003513ii01.jpg&hasJS=true

I'm also looking at the wrapping kit
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...ntent/Pod/00/36/10/p003610ii02.jpg&hasJS=true

The rest will be spent on tools, thread, cork ring binder....etc. I'm also thinking of buying one of those kits that have the blank and all the components pre-selected for my first rod or two.
 

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Ypsi,
The motor and dryer look perfect. I think you might want to reconsider the wrapping kit though. To me, it just doesn't seem like a great deal. I'd say instead you should get 6 packets of thier epoxy(just to try, then mabe try an other brand), 2oz of U40 Rod Bond, flex coat nylon brushes, flex coat brush cleaner and U40 color lock(stay away from calbelas color preserver. I hear its like rubber cement). Now, the price is lower, and the stuff will be just as good if not better. I didn't include any thread because if you get one of cabelas' kits(which are a good deal), you will get more thread than you would use on 5 rods.
Hope this helps.
 

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Best advice I can give the first time rod maker is to go cheap with the components, since inevitably you will not be 100% satisfied with your rod and want to make another.

A few more things for the first time wrapper, I would not use CP(easier to apply finish). stay away from the Cabela's finish packets(not enough volume to be necessarily full proof, fail to get one extra drop out of the packet and you might be sol) and use only Flex Coat Syringes for measuring finish, regular syringes have silicone in them and will cause your finish not to cure. Make sure to heat the finish up with a blow dryer before you measure it also. Apply fishing with a knitting needle for more control then a brush.
 

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Has anyone had any experience with Rainshadow RX8 blanks? I'm considering building a two piece 9' nine or ten weight for Salmon. Also has anyone ordered from Jann's NetCraft in Ohio? Are they good people to work with?
Tbone:
Thanks for the rod dryer directions. I built a rod wrapping stand from directions on rodbuilding.org (Rick Lewis). I still would like to build a dryer.
Jim
 

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Janns netcraft are great people..... and as for the Rainshadow RX-8 (excel graphite) i have heard nothing but good things, supposed to be faster action than the RX-7s.

steve
 

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I have built about a dozen fly rods and have picked up a few things along the way. Maybe this will help.

The drying motor and the wrapping station look fine but I would opt to purchase the thread, epoxy and other goodies separately. Cabelas has a good selection of thread that you can pick out. As for epoxy, I would go with either Flex Coat Hi Build wrap finish or U-40 LS Supreme. Both are excellent. Measure exactly with syringes when mixing. Thhis is crucial. Also, mix the heck out of it or it may not cure properly. You don't need the thread sealer. It makes the thread not turn out translucent after the epoxy goes on but it does weaken the holding strength some since the epoxy can't soak into the threads. If you get a pre-turned handle, don't use a rattail file like the Cabelas book (I think) tells you to use. Instead take a piece of old rod (I bet you have some laying around) and spiral wrap a 1" wide piece of coarse sand paper around it. Use this to ream the handle. I could go on and on. PM me if you have any questions at all. I'd be happy to help. Rod building is an addictive hobby and this is a great time of year to get into it.
 
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