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First, I'll suggest, go with a track system. Berts and Pursuit both make excellent tracks, availible in any lengths. Looks super clean, and allows your to change your setup at will. Seriously consider this. It pays off in functionality.
1. Drilling without cracking the gel coat.-
You can Tape. I never do, but other swear by it. I drill in reverse first to dimple the glass, then drill my hole. Then counter-sink the hole slightly(with a countersink bit). You should be crack free. I usually put a small film of marine sealant under plates and such before tightening them down to kind of cushion it. No problem in 5 years.
2. Backing material for rod holders and downriggers-
Marine Plywood or Aluminum backing plates are best. Through bolt EVERYTHING. I don't use screws for anything. Use only Stainless Steel. Use locking SS nuts(like Nylok I think).
3. Drilling through the transom to run transducer/speed lines to graph-
The best way to make sure you dont have any problems is to overdrill your holes in the transom by 30-50%. Epoxy those holes back solid. Them drill the appropriote hole in that epoxy and seal your screws as you screw them in. This way, your screw is in solid glass/epoxy, and not touching exposed wood at all.
4. Electric downrigger hook-up. What electrical connectors do you like. I'm thinking a flush mount outlet for each rigger on the inside wall of the boat. It has a fully molded back so I will have to drill access holes to run the wire to the rigger.-
I used the cords and connectors that come with the cannons. I looked all over for quality flush mount connector but couldnt find anything I liked. I ran mine through SS clam vents and tied them to their own breaker/distribution panel mounted on the Starboard gunnel behind a access hatch. Run each electric rigger on its own fused line. Heres a poor picture of my cabling. Not the cleanest ever, but looks alright(IMO) and they are solid, water tight connections.
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Have Fun. Theres nothing like the smell of fresh cut fiberglass on a new boat....
1. Drilling without cracking the gel coat.-
You can Tape. I never do, but other swear by it. I drill in reverse first to dimple the glass, then drill my hole. Then counter-sink the hole slightly(with a countersink bit). You should be crack free. I usually put a small film of marine sealant under plates and such before tightening them down to kind of cushion it. No problem in 5 years.
2. Backing material for rod holders and downriggers-
Marine Plywood or Aluminum backing plates are best. Through bolt EVERYTHING. I don't use screws for anything. Use only Stainless Steel. Use locking SS nuts(like Nylok I think).
3. Drilling through the transom to run transducer/speed lines to graph-
The best way to make sure you dont have any problems is to overdrill your holes in the transom by 30-50%. Epoxy those holes back solid. Them drill the appropriote hole in that epoxy and seal your screws as you screw them in. This way, your screw is in solid glass/epoxy, and not touching exposed wood at all.
4. Electric downrigger hook-up. What electrical connectors do you like. I'm thinking a flush mount outlet for each rigger on the inside wall of the boat. It has a fully molded back so I will have to drill access holes to run the wire to the rigger.-
I used the cords and connectors that come with the cannons. I looked all over for quality flush mount connector but couldnt find anything I liked. I ran mine through SS clam vents and tied them to their own breaker/distribution panel mounted on the Starboard gunnel behind a access hatch. Run each electric rigger on its own fused line. Heres a poor picture of my cabling. Not the cleanest ever, but looks alright(IMO) and they are solid, water tight connections.
Have Fun. Theres nothing like the smell of fresh cut fiberglass on a new boat....
