I think you use untreated anywhere wood touches aluminum, I know treated will severely corrode aluminum. Someone else I'm sure will reply with the correct answer. Good luck.

 

There is a Marine place on Newburgh just before Cherry Hill. Mom and Pop type shop I figure...Bernie's Marine in Westland.

If they can't help - I'm sure they will try and point you in the right direction.

 

Nice boat! This might help
http://www.glanglerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?13274-1987-Starcraft-Islander-transom-rotten

 

my neighbor across the street gor 3/4 at menards

 

Don't use treated, marine grade plywood is made for that purpose. It is NOT the same.

If it was my boat I would use the marine grade and paint it with West Systems epoxy prior to putting it in. You may have to special order the correct thickness, most boat builders use 1 1/8"


http://www.apawood.org/level_b.cfm?content=srv_help_prd_marine

 

Menards in livonia has the 3/4 sheet for 69$ each. Way less than another place! I am getting the west epoxy to coat it in. I am frustrated but not mad because I know when I'm done and its in the water I will have no fear of failure! The $5000 spent on the boat plus the $1000 in material costs to make this boat just about perfect is so worth it to me.

Came with 5 cannon downrigers, hds5 gen2 lowrance, fish hawk cannon ball temp and speed sensor set up, 9.9 nissan electric start with transom mount never installed. Planer board spools with chord. 10 big john rod holders. Outdrive was overhauled last fall.

Minor set back is all!

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Nice boat! This might help
http://www.glanglerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?13274-1987-Starcraft-Islander-transom-rotten

Thank you! I had read that yesterday. Those guys make it out to be so much more work than it is.

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Post photos and details of the repair if you would. Be interesting to follow.
Thanks

 

Post photos and details of the repair if you would. Be interesting to follow.
Thanks

I sure will. This is going to get serious come Monday. I have to finish a jetski I am rebuilding for a guy. Just dropped parts off to me. I am a geeked to get this done. My goal is to have the boat on the water 1 week from today with walleye in the cooler before it gets relocated permanently to the u.p for lake superior duty!

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Alright after a busy holiday weekend I am back on the grind. Sat out for hours today cutting away all of the foam against the old transom. It was just holding water there and not allowing the boat to drain. Cleaned the passages under the stringers and guess what? After I just got done it decided to storm and all the water actually drained right out of the hull!

Going to menards now. Moving the motor in the am and removing the stern drive and transom plate and hopefully pulling old transom tomorrow.

Trying to decide on just fitting one sheet and then Clone cutting other sheet to fit.

Progress is happening.

Whats everyones advise as to what adhesive to use to bond both 3/4 sheets together?

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Sorry phone was fighting me.

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Yes fit one piece, then the second piece to get a perfect fit, take out and bond together. Lots of options on glue from the 3M 5200 to gorilla glue. Depends on if you prefer easy application vs a bit more work with your plans on keeping the 2 or 3 pieces clamped together.
I'll ask a friend at work as he has 6 wooden boats and restores others. It won't be a quick answer, nothing ever is from him :lol:

I found this in my archive links, you might find some info here to help
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...oration-building-and-hull-repair/293613-66-starcraft-sunchief-re-build?t=286412

 

Make sure you realign the sterndrive and engine. Since you have moved both it will take a bit of knowledge, it is not just bolt them back in.

D

 

Whats everyones advise as to what adhesive to use to bond both 3/4 sheets together?

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You mentioned that you were going to use the West System to coat the plywood. Don't stop at coating the wood, after you let the coating dry, apply another coat of WS and screw it together with 1 1/4" SS screws, while its wet. after it dries touch up the screw heads with a little WS and you should be good to go.

BTW use two coats of WS on the flat and three on the edges. Project looks good.

 

The boat you are working on is an awesome fishing machine, nice choice for sure. They are also one of the easier boats to replace transoms on too.
The ply wood many use that which is much cheaper than marine ply, is called "Arruco" (sp) and I found it can be obtained at Lumber Jack in New Baltimore and many other big box stores too. It's much cheaper than marine ply, uses waterproof glue and has no voids, for much less cost.
If your transom comes out in one piece, you will have a nice template to use for the new one. Cardboard works if its too rotted. Pay close attention to the original thickness of your existing transom, and make sure your new one is the same finished thickness. Your out-drive will need this to be the same dimension as the old one. Most guys glue the transom slabs prior to gluing the transom back in, but either way is acceptable. Making sure your new one goes in flush and flat to the transom outer skin is critical. Many guys use home made clamps that ensure this happens. PM me if you have any interest in learning more about that, or any of the other steps doing this job. It really isn't that difficult with alum boats, just remember no pressure treated wood, as stated already.
That boat will be on the big water soon.

 

had mine done on my lund, almost the same boat, they coated the plywood in epoxy , i want to say it cost $1500, but that was near 18 years ago and its holding up fine. sometimes the best tool in your toolbox is your checkbook.

 

Guy at work stated there are 2 types of the 3M 5200, fast cure and semi fast cure. Use gloves and plan on throwing away your bondo spreaders. If it was me, I would drill 3 wooden dowel locations for the 2 pieces of plywood once you have a perfect fit. That way when you spread the 3M stuff you can drop one piece on top of the other and know it's a perfect line up and WILL NOT MOVE when you start to clamp the pieces together. But that's me. I have glued a lot of wood together over the years. We used to use steel pins when gluing 6 and 8 inch thick pieces together. Perfect alignment every time.

 

I appreciate all the input guys! I am hoping to have this thread for others that find themselves in my current predicament. I went to a shop in wyandotte that does transoms yesterday. He told me that they glue the plywood together with resin. So I will follow suit. He also said after glued to do 2 coats on the faces and 3 on edges.
Got a quote for the heck of it and it was like $4,500. At $250 in materials so far. Got everything so far but the gimble bearing and bellow set. Another $120 + a $10 transom gasket.

Due to weather yesterday I didn't make it too far, pulled the drive unit off

Thanks again guys!

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looking great! I admire the ambition. I bet you could do this on the side for $$$ !!

 

I appreciate all the input guys! I am hoping to have this thread for others that find themselves in my current predicament. I went to a shop in wyandotte that does transoms yesterday. He told me that they glue the plywood together with resin. So I will follow suit. He also said after glued to do 2 coats on the faces and 3 on edges.
Got a quote for the heck of it and it was like $4,500. At $250 in materials so far. Got everything so far but the gimble bearing and bellow set. Another $120 + a $10 transom gasket.

Due to weather yesterday I didn't make it too far, pulled the drive unit off

Thanks again guys!

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The resin method on bonding both sheets of transom wood together and then to the transom skin itself is easy. I would do this first, then fit the transom to the back of the boat, then cut the hole for the out-drive.
All those little holes in the aluminum transom skin can be JB welded, patched sanded and never again to leak. It's probably partially why it rotted to begin with. Gluing a plastic mounting plate (for fish finders and what not)to the transom will ensure no more holes ever need to be drilled below the water line again. That boat will last longer than us if you do it right.
Do you have wood motor mounts on that rig? Now is a good time to check/replace if you're tearing into the transom anyways.

 

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Well stuff was flying today. Here's some pics of the progress!



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Well second sheet is fitted and perfect. Tomorrow will be glue day. Guess ill change the fuel filter and thermostat gasket after that is done. Going to clean some minor corrosion and use some aluminium primer and then a little omc out drive paint to over coat it. Then I'm going to clean the drive unit and paint that with factory paint! Sunday will be key hole day and then at a stand still unless my gimble bearing and bellow set arrive tomorrow! Progress is good!

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Your moving right long! Nice
There is a 22ft lund cabin for sale on craig's list. He has a photo showing the transom where it appears he has replaced it, but it looks like only one piece of plywood with a small second piece added at the outdrive to make up the space. If he didn't have it exposed, no one would know.
http://thumb.craigslist.org/boa/4509795138.html