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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased some Offshore OR39 releases at the Fishing show last week. Mark Romanack had some on display, and they looked like a good idea. Basically, there is a spool that you wrap your line around, and the spool can release the line if you trip it. They Re supposed to work well with thin braid. Does anybody have experience with them (good or bad)?
 

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I have used them as a Sam's release they work good if you want the board to release. They take a little getting used to on how to wrap the line and direction. I only use them on salmon boards, because of the extra time it takes to put line in release.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have used them as a Sam's release they work good if you want the board to release. They take a little getting used to on how to wrap the line and direction. I only use them on salmon boards, because of the extra time it takes to put line in release.
Do you put the releasing snap jaws toward the front of the board, or toward the back?

Is there any special trick to wrapping the spool?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
T
I bought 2 at the show and put then on a couple offshore boards. I also ordered two competitor products that come with that style release on them:

http://douevenfishbro.com/planer-boards-releases-terminal/

Looks interesting....had to add them to my arsenal. So I have 2 doueven boards and two off shores with the release.

Marty
The Douevens are half the price of the OR39. It will be interesting to see how they work.
 

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T

The Douevens are half the price of the OR39. It will be interesting to see how they work.
I'll post up the side by side compare when I get out. It's interesting how Douevens rates the size of their boards. I bought a set of Lead Core boards.

This set of port and starboard 8oz boards are specifically designed for 3-8 colors of lead. Also great for 1.5oz-40z inline weights or 150 feet or less of copper/weighted steel. All boards are preset, ready to fish but can be tuned by slightly bending the arm up or down. This will adjust the forward/backward tracking of the board.

Marty
 

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I'll post up the side by side compare when I get out. It's interesting how Douevens rates the size of their boards. I bought a set of Lead Core boards.

This set of port and starboard 8oz boards are specifically designed for 3-8 colors of lead. Also great for 1.5oz-40z inline weights or 150 feet or less of copper/weighted steel. All boards are preset, ready to fish but can be tuned by slightly bending the arm up or down. This will adjust the forward/backward tracking of the board.

Marty
I got a set for salmon to pull 300 copper, haven’t used the yet but a guy I know said they pull great so will see
 

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We use them trolling salmon on the big Offshore SST Pro Mag boards. #1. Braid use. Mono stretches too much to trip the release easily and reliably. #2 there is a screw to adjust the arm release tension. Play with it until you get it adjusted just right so it’s not releasing from the wave chop but will release reliably with a quick snap of the rod. I absolutely love them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Russells has a couple of videos that show how to rig them.

I saw this video too. It is interesting that they attached the release using a split ring, rather than bolting it to the arm. When bolted, you can either mount it with the snap jaws to the front or to the back of the board. I mounted it with the jaws to the front, but I am not certain that this is best.
 

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I saw this video too. It is interesting that they attached the release using a split ring, rather than bolting it to the arm. When bolted, you can either mount it with the snap jaws to the front or to the back of the board. I mounted it with the jaws to the front, but I am not certain that this is best.
I have the Sams Pro Release, and use them on my Salmon boards. I used the split ring.

I had no issues, the split ring allows the release to angle UP towards the rod tip, vs geing stationary and horizontal. One of the changes some do for better tracking is to heat and bend the arm up, so that the line is never in the water. That split ring allows for that to occur, without the heating and bending of the plastic arm

Aside from that, there is no other function that it performs. I did notice some slack, on a wave, once in awhile from the split ring. I will be testing screwed directly to the board on my Walleye boards though.

As mentioned, when mounting to the board, the opening should be towards the front. this allows for a cleaner release, vs having to swivel from the back to the front to get to the angle for clean line release.

They are awesome for braid, once adjusted properly.

OE
 

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In the video posted above, if you look close Russel has the jaws to the rear of board. I have mine mounted solid on the arm with jaws facing rear but don't always get a good release. I believe that the direction that the line is wrapped on the barrel is important, no matter what direction the jaws are.
I am going to try putting on the split ring on 2 from each side and test both ways at the same time. (solid mount ver. split ring mount)
 

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In the video posted above, if you look close Russel has the jaws to the rear of board. I have mine mounted solid on the arm with jaws facing rear but don't always get a good release. I believe that the direction that the line is wrapped on the barrel is important, no matter what direction the jaws are.
I am going to try putting on the split ring on 2 from each side and test both ways at the same time. (solid mount ver. split ring mount)
The swivel from what I understand just allows the angle to the rod tip to be more direct, and keep the line out of the water, while in choppy water. I have not heated and bent any of the arms on my planer boards to test and have no intention. The only "Con" of that swivel is there is a gap and you get some "Herky Jerky" <- for lack of a better term, from the splay/slop in that configuration.

I would try changing them to the front, or so that the opening is towards the front. The barrel has less distance to travel to be directly in line with the rod tip to allow better release of the line around the barrel, as your pulling from the front already. The barrel does not have to go past a 90 degree swivel in order to re;ease when facing forwards.

Line wrap, I have found that on each side of the boat, it is best to have the line that "PULLS" the board from the top, or the front of the barrel depending on the use of swivel or fixed mount.
This allows the rod to absorb some of that slop, however keep the line tight. I also wrap the line over itself on the last wrap to help the line stay secure. Should an erratic wave hit, and cause extra bounce.

Granted this is all from Salmon fishing and using the large SST boards, but most of it applies to my Walleye boards as well. Just smaller size, however I still get the best results duplicating for Walleye on the smaller boards.

OE
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ran mine for first time last Friday with swivels slow speeds p10s and 2oz at times were laying flat in water !! just rigged fixed to try tomorrow !! did mine to open like on offshore video and the TRS salmo
I am impressed that you are still able to get out trolling.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ran them today fixed mounting !!! tracked like they always have with the OR19s ,,,,tripping them took a little more effort than with the key

I have always cleared the inboard lines when I have a hookup. I am trying something new with these releases, so I have some questions:

After you trip the release, do you need to feed out line let the board and fish swing behind the inboard lines?

Do you wait until the released line swings straight behind the boat before you reel in?

I drew it out on paper with lines 80 feet behind the boards, and it looks like about 30 feet of separation between boards will let them swing cleanly behind the boat. Is that about right?

I appreciate any tips that you may have.
 
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