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Yes you need to cut the gunnel back 3 or 4 inches and bend it back to get your hand in there. It’s not noticeable when put back together.
How is a cut across the gunnel not noticeable? It was done on my boat and it IS noticeable.

Part of the reason I wasn't happy with the job done on mine. Cut it, bondo and a sticker over it.
 

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I said cut lengthwise of the gunnel. Sounds like yours was cut width wise. We cut it and bend the piece up did the work and flaten the bend and the trim hide the cuts. Might have had a different setup.
How is a cut across the gunnel not noticeable? It was done on my boat and it IS noticeable.

Part of the reason I wasn't happy with the job done on mine. Cut it, bondo and a sticker over it.
 

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I did mine with sea cast. Time consuming but simple process. I didn’t have to cut any gunnels. I used an auger bit and extension on a 1/2 inch drill sucked it out with a shop vac. Replaced all the bolts and squared everything up. It took two pours. Once to bring it up to the cap height and then went to the brick supply and got a mortar gun. It’s like a refillable caulk gun. Replaced the cap on the transom and squirted the rest full to the top. That is the most solid transom I have ever felt. I’d do it again. I wouldn’t even consider replacing with wood. They people at sea cast called to verify my order and offered any help I needed. Good people to work with.
 

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I did mine with sea cast. Time consuming but simple process. I didn’t have to cut any gunnels. I used an auger bit and extension on a 1/2 inch drill sucked it out with a shop vac. Replaced all the bolts and squared everything up. It took two pours. Once to bring it up to the cap height and then went to the brick supply and got a mortar gun. It’s like a refillable caulk gun. Replaced the cap on the transom and squirted the rest full to the top. That is the most solid transom I have ever felt. I’d do it again. I wouldn’t even consider replacing with wood. They people at sea cast called to verify my order and offered any help I needed. Good people to work with.
Sounds like the absolute best option, especially since you didnt have to cut the gunnel like if you had replaced with wood.
 

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Perhaps reach out to Bill Rose at Rose Marine if not comfortable doing it yourself, just another resource on Lund Boats
 

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Replaced mine 4 yrs ago 2000 pro v. As stated earlier simple process if u can locate a motor hoist. Sea cast is the way to go imo. Rock solid and no more worrying about rot. Good luck with the install. 2 pours for me as well. If u DIY, a tip would be to lubricate bolts with marine grease and frequently turn them as sea cast is curing
 

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Lots of threads with pictures and info on Walleye Central. This is a very common problem for Lunds of that era.
Man.Just had to replace my 1984 transom 2 years ago on a alumacraft.. after my buddy's fancy 60,000$ Lund Tyhee falling apart literally (everything wrong,broke, busted) not sure I'd ever own one !

Good luck. Nice weather to work on it outside if your going to do it yourself
 

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STOP already. My Lund is a 95 and I worry about it at times. Still solid for now...what are you guys doing the is helping these rot out.

My bildge area is dry and I always check it and leave the inspection port open when shes in my gara.. um boathouse.
 

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Now I am worried. Have a 2002 19 foot pro V. How long before 200 hp Yamaha falls off.:( Just watched some youtube videos and saw Lund is making composite transom now. Lots of videos about seacast. Need to find out how to check it. Good thing like skinner2, my boat never docked, always on trailer or hoist.
 
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