Living in an Ag area, I'd say that food plots are only 10%-15% of my concern. Meanwhile I started planting trees and NWSG this year, and will continue with more next year as well.
I dumped some trees in an area with tall CSGs last year. Looking at it this year, it worked pretty well to help keep the visual screen into winter by keeping the grass upright. instead of flattening grasses I still have 4'+ screens at the moment and anticipate it will remain until I start trying to kick up rabbits after the endless deer seasons are over.Has anyone ever hinged trees along some of their switch or grass stands (if anyone has any against a woodline) or even just dumped some large tree tops into it to help with some of the lacking overhead cover?
Ah hah - I was under the impression that they ate them one cold weather hit and they turned mushy. If they only eat them young, no wonder I've never noticed.Yes they do grub my pigweeds pretty good but when they get too tall they stop feeding on them. I guess my pigweed crop is too "robust" for my deer herd to keep them under control...
I've already put in 225 norways and 100 whites. Not sure I'll put more though because I just don't have room.Norway and white spruce will do the trick if you don't want red cedars to contend with...
Echoing Paul, it's very effective. I've had white ash put up 1/2-1 dozen 4'-5' shoots and chest/shoulder high black raspberries and black elderberry. Don't forget about the hinged trees that stay alive as well. Without a doubt the quickest way to have an impact on habitat is with a good chainsaw in late winter/early spring.How effective is edge feathering in its first year?
IMO, it's best to cut as little as possible while still being able to pull the tree over. This retains as much of the living wood connecting the top half of the tree so it can continue growing with as much success as possible. 70%-85% just sounds like way too much. Granted, I often have to cut each tree a few times until I cut enough that I can tip it over (usually using a pole or rope to get leverage on the tree by pulling from higher up). It's better to cut "almost enough" a few times than to cut too much the first time.I cut on an angle and perhaps 60-85% of the way through the tree.
I don't think I worded my post well enough. I was suggesting to keep as much of the tree attached as possible so that it will continue to live as long as possible. IME the chances and duration that a tree will live are proportional to the size of the hinge. The hinge that remains needs to be large enough to supply nutrients to the top half.Disagree, A tree lives by its bark. As long as the bark don't get pinched the tree will heal itself, Want me to post an example tree?
The forum is about sharing ideas and what someone thinks might work or works for them in their particular situation. I wouldn't do it that way either, but it might benefit someone else. I'd ask you how you do it, but there have been more than enough posts about who you believe everyone should pay to find out that answer and it's become a broken record that many are tired of.As far as his techniques for bedding...don't do it that way. You can't uncut a tree.
FWIW, some of your window makers and head-high cuts scare me. Neither myself nor anyone else is running all over your threads every time you post a really high hinge cut. Cutting trees is dangerous work. It is the responsibility of the operator to determine what is safe or not.I have looked at his hinge cutting pictures for quite a while and grimaced but kept quiet. Now he is talking along "how-to" lines and making "how-to" videos and it scares me. Sorry. I think when it comes to the potential death of our members through improper cutting techniques tact is not something I will opt for.
I think that it's really just different strokes for different folks.Sometimes there is a tremendous amount of "hoopla" over the bedding issue, for most of us it's just common sense but some put way to much emphasis on creating a "bed" versus a thick safe sanctuary.
Don't fret the small stuff! Life is complicated enough with out adding dribble about making "beds"...make a mess! Log, or hinge a percentage of your timber every year and maintain funnels between them and keep deer adapted to traveling only to your food sources by not forcing them to look elsewhere! The right food source combination's that will feed them year around will in turn give them no reason to leave.
I fail to understand how it's possibly a factor that it "wasn't wide enough" to deter them from using it.Bio, on average, how wide are your Tornado areas? I found one of my "tornado" areas still used by deer......obviously is was not thick nor wide enough.....
The pictures look good enough to me! Thanks for sharing.My pocket camera isn't the greatest ...
I've seen people say that EAB will move on, but I think it's here to stay. I have a number of trees that aren't dead yet, but in the few year it will take them to die, the younger trees will have thick enough bark that EAB will move to them, so on and so forth.OSXer, What about new ash trees sprouting up on the floor? These out to be good for a while. I don't know if the ashes that were stressed out or dying sent out a lot more seeds, but I'm getting tons of shoots and these will probably give some viable saplings in the next ten years. By then the EAB might have passed through.
Yep, I'm looking into a wood furnace/stove to make use of them.Cut and use for firewood. Sooner rather than later.
I've got a variety of trees resprouting. The deer like the browse and the stem density is nice. However, eventually the bark will be thick enough that EAB will lay eggs in it and the larva will kill the trees. My thought is to keep cutting it back before it gets to this point to keep the EAB from killing them. Hopefully someday there will be an EAB solution. Until then, I'll also keep planting a wide variety of other species too!At the stump many new shoots were growing up at least 6 feet of fresh new growth, this was the first time I have noticed what looked like dead ash sprouting. Gives a little hope.
Won't those trees grow large enough in the next 5-10 years though that the bark will become attractive? In that time there will still be beetles around. Yes, perhaps the "wave of suddenly dying trees" will end, but EAB killing ash will keep occurring until something makes an honest attempt to target and prey on EABs....but the young trees are still not infected.
Those beds are also relatively close to the trunks of the hinged trees.I have seen literally hundreds of deer beds under overhanging trunks of hinged trees.
You are absolutely right about this. A human would not feel very comfortable under a kitchen table, neither would a deer. Why would you ever try to create bedding cover that would make a deer fell like he was under a kitchen table?
... most of the time. Jim did take the time to post some good information on the dynamics of cutting larger trees at one point. This broken record of "you're doing it wrong" in regards to beds, but never offering any value aside from urging people to set a goal of saving $800 to be told, is annoying as hell.I think you are incorrect. Dbltree posts info and Bio points out why it is wrong. However he does not give specifics on the subject because it was learned at the TL compund so his "secrets" can not be told.