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Discussion starter · #42 ·
Cloudy oil/ water in lower unit is a hint. Water is getting in! Be proactive and fix the problem ASAP. Or, ignore it until your lower unit fails. You’ll be stranded and the repair will be 10x the cost.


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Certainly going to attempt to locate and repair before spring walleye run.
 
Cloudy oil/ water in lower unit is a hint. Water is getting in! Be proactive and fix the problem ASAP. Or, ignore it until your lower unit fails. You’ll be stranded and the repair will be 10x the cost.
Sent from my iPhone using Michigan Sportsman
Sometimes you want things to fail, cause if you are too good at fixing them, you will end up with a 30 year old boat/engine.
 
I usually buy Quicksilver parts but looks like I could get Sierra with a click on Amazon. Anybody have an opinion of Sierra replacement parts? Pretty decent quality?
How much are factory seals? Mine were $27.55 for all the lower unit seals directly from Suzuki. I haven't read that the factory seals are better or worse but I will always go factory if the price is comparable and there isn't a factory issue that an aftermarket company has resolved.

I think I've used both companies you mentioned but I can't recall any issues with either. I only remember the bad stuff I buy.
 
There was a time I would buy only Mercury originals. After they bought Force (early 90s) it's most likely that you are getting the same thing, quality wise.
While your at it, I'd also change the impeller.
 
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Discussion starter · #48 ·
How much are factory seals? Mine were $27.55 for all the lower unit seals directly from Suzuki. I haven't read that the factory seals are better or worse but I will always go factory if the price is comparable and there isn't a factory issue that an aftermarket company has resolved.

I think I've used both companies you mentioned but I can't recall any issues with either. I only remember the bad stuff I buy.
Looks like $75 for a gear case seal kit. Includes stuff i shouldn't need unless rebuilding water pump again. I did that in 2019. Probably worth it while the lower is apart anyway.
 
Looks like $75 for a gear case seal kit. Includes stuff i shouldn't need unless rebuilding water pump again. I did that in 2019. Probably worth it while the lower is apart anyway.
Michigan Marine Gear on Stephens by Little Mack will have everything you'll need to get it resealed. I did my 1985 25 hp Merc. Fairly simple maintenance
 
Anybody make one? I see a couple options just surfing the web but was interested in other potential options.

Lower unit looked a lot more tan/brown than I've ever seen in years past...
Sureshot, I had suspicions a while back and became neurotic about if my lower unit had a leak. I bought a brake bleeder with a pressure gauge and attached a lower unit lube pump tube to it so it could connect to the fill port. Pressure it up to 10psi and see if it holds longer than like 20 seconds. Here is the video I found to replicate my setup. Pressure testing an outboard gearbox - Bing video
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Sureshot, I had suspicions a while back and became neurotic about if my lower unit had a leak. I bought a brake bleeder with a pressure gauge and attached a lower unit lube pump tube to it so it could connect to the fill port. Pressure it up to 10psi and see if it holds longer than like 20 seconds. Here is the video I found to replicate my setup. Pressure testing an outboard gearbox - Bing video
Yep I've seen that video. If I don't find a leak right away I am going to buy a brake bleeder and rig it up like that. Seems to be a decent method.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Do it the right way and test it first.

Sierra seal kits and marine parts are fine.
I was thinking of doing it this weekend and having to buy Sierra to get them quicker but looks like I won't be doing the work this weekend anyway. Looks like Sierra is popular though.

Gonna get a lower unit seal kit to have everything on hand.
 
Coming into this late. Water in the oil for sure, from the photos.

I whacked my lower unit on the ramp a few years ago, while pulling the boat out of the water and having forgotten to tilt the motor up. Turned out I cracked it but didn't know/didn't want to know if it was damaged. It was damaged, cracked at the mounting flange to the engine housing. Finished that boating season, and ran it one more season.

It was whining pretty good that last season. I put the boat away for the winter, and in the spring the entire prop + bearing assembly had been squeezed out of the housing from frozen water in the oil reservoir, shearing the cast mounting ears, game over.

I ordered and installed a new lower unit and it has been great since then. The motor is a 1997 Honda BF90, so it will be 24 years old this coming season. If this were mine, I would install a new lower unit. They aren't too expensive in the big picture.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Coming into this late. Water in the oil for sure, from the photos.

I whacked my lower unit on the ramp a few years ago, while pulling the boat out of the water and having forgotten to tilt the motor up. Turned out I cracked it but didn't know/didn't want to know if it was damaged. It was damaged, cracked at the mounting flange to the engine housing. Finished that boating season, and ran it one more season.

It was whining pretty good that last season. I put the boat away for the winter, and in the spring the entire prop + bearing assembly had been squeezed out of the housing from frozen water in the oil reservoir, shearing the cast mounting ears, game over.

I ordered and installed a new lower unit and it has been great since then. The motor is a 1997 Honda BF90, so it will be 24 years old this coming season. If this were mine, I would install a new lower unit. They aren't too expensive in the big picture.
Why new lower unit? If I have to put $2300 into it I'd rather just buy a new (used) boat. Its a good excuse anyway...
 
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