you have to remember - bullet drop is the most predictable aspect of external ballistics. the quest to shoot flatter is somewhat misleading in that respect. at 200 yards, my bullet will drop 4", and that's really regardless of what the wind is doing.
what then becomes important is actually knowing your range. that same bullet that is 4" low at 200 yards, might be 9" low at 225 yards. big, slow projectiles shed velocity quickly, even while retaining more than sufficient killing energy.
jmoser and others have summed it up well - the heavier the projectile for the bore size, the better the ballistic coefficient, and the better it bucks the wind.
the wildcard in the muzzleloading arena is the sabot. its becoming clear that for most guns and most loads - the thinner the sabot wall, the more accurate the round. as you dip into the 180 - 200 grain bullet weight, you're going to get a smaller diameter bullet with thicker sabot walls.
if i were looking for a long range bullet - it would be an aerodynamic bullet (spitzer tip) in the 300 grain range, traveling at moderately high speeds. that is, if you think you can get your 300 grain bullet up to around 1,900-2,000 fps, you'll have a good long range round. then get yourself a rangefinder, and test the rounds at those distances you'd like to shoot. record the drop, and rest assured that your drop will be consistent when you go into the field.
guys have reported excellent accuracy with the barnes original semi-spitzers in a .458" diameter. there's very few spitzer bullets in the .458 size. much better luck finding them in the .452". then i'd order some mmp sabots, either the short black or the hph12, for 452 bullets. the mmp orange for 458 bullets. shockwaves, sst's, and some of parkers bullets would probably be good test as well.