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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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So we bought this house and the previous owner had a generator he hooked in to the barn to feed the house and boiler during outages.

I am looking to get a Predator 8750w generator and setting it up to back feed the house.

Here’s my problem. The wiring for the house was obviously done by the homeowner and probably isn’t legal or to code.

In the barn he has a dryer outlet installed going to a 20amp breaker. There is a 30Amp. Realer in the box that’s not wired or hooked up to anything.

From what I am told the generator should go in to a 30Amp breaker. Is that true?

Also I have not seen a 30Amp breaker like this before or know how to wire it.

I wanted to get a transfer switch and wire it up so I am not having to use a male to make “suicide cord” to make the connection to the existing setup.

Any ideas on how to proceed? Please see the pics. Yellow is 20amp that’s wired to that outlet. Blue is the 30amp
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thought about that. But I don’t believe the barn is to code. There is no meter on the barn. And I believe the barn is tied to the main breaker box in the house.

So ultimately might cost us more to go that route. I’ve no problem back feeding to the house as I know to kill the power from going to the grid. And wouldn’t use a suicide cord or the way it’s wired which is whey I’m asking.

The generator transfer switch I’m looking at is 30Amp but I’m looking to see if the 30amp breaker I have is the proper one. There’s no labeling on it. So I’m assuming it’s a double pole 30A
 

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Thought about that. But I don’t believe the barn is to code. There is no meter on the barn. And I believe the barn is tied to the main breaker box in the house.

So ultimately might cost us more to go that route. I’ve no problem back feeding to the house as I know to kill the power from going to the grid. And wouldn’t use a suicide cord or the way it’s wired which is whey I’m asking.

The generator transfer switch I’m looking at is 30Amp but I’m looking to see if the 30amp breaker I have is the proper one. There’s no labeling on it. So I’m assuming it’s a double pole 30A
You don't need a separate meter on the barn. My pole barn has a 100 amp box that is fed from the house. I wired it like the inspector told me and he approved it. I have 2 hot hot wires and a neutral wire that come from the house and then I have 2 ground rods at the barn. I built my barn about 8 years ago and since then I have heard they require 4 wires from the house with no ground rods. I thought it was odd to have my ground and neutrals separate in the house, but they are tied together in the barn like your pic shows.
 

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I'm commercial/industrial not residential. The barn panel does not need a grounding rod. In the picture there is a green screw (bonding jumper) that ties the neutral and ground together in that panel. That should be against code. The only meter will be at hour service entrance, not at the barn panel.

The unused 30 amp breaker is a 2 pole as you thought. Your generator has multiple outputs including a 2 pole 4 wire 240 volt 30 amp................I just deleted the long answer.(I'm not putting it in writting)

Short answer, hire an electrician.
 

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If you have to ask, hire a pro.
Google "ground and neutral subpanel" to see the errors that Lightfoot mentions and repair it yesterday.
If you use a 8750 watt generator simple math and ohms law will tell you 8750 watts divided by 240 volts equal 36.458333 amps..... a 30 amp breaker not going to handle it nor is the plug in the rated for the higher amps produced by the generator.
 

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I'm commercial/industrial not residential. The barn panel does not need a grounding rod. In the picture there is a green screw (bonding jumper) that ties the neutral and ground together in that panel. That should be against code. The only meter will be at hour service entrance, not at the barn panel.

The unused 30 amp breaker is a 2 pole as you thought. Your generator has multiple outputs including a 2 pole 4 wire 240 volt 30 amp................I just deleted the long answer.(I'm not putting it in writting)

Short answer, hire an electrician.
Like I said, the electrical inspector approved my barn panel with the neutral and ground tied together. Must been code approved 8 years ago and they made me install 2 ground rods at the barn.
 

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Key word may be "barn". Situations with livestock are an entire goofy section of their own. Id kill some time in my code book if the movers ever bring my stuff. Curious minds kinda thing.

Regarding the bonding jumper. That forms a parallel path for your neutral. Your neutral caries amperage. Amperage kills. The grounding rods in mossys case are probably to mitigate that, but I still think his inspector is wrong. An ampmeter would tell the tale.

In theory. 015 amps is all it takes to kill you. Ive dodged a few bullets, the worst was 4.6 amps (I measured it) for roughly 10 seconds before I could fall off the ladder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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If you use a 8750 watt generator simple math and ohms law will tell you 8750 watts divided by 240 volts equal 36.458333 amps..... a 30 amp breaker not going to handle it nor is the plug in the rated for the higher amps produced by the generator.
Everything I mentioned wanting to use, has been used by others. Including an electrician who set it up using a Reliance transfer switch and DP 30Amp breaker.

The only difference between their setup and the one I have now is that the previous owner is using a dryer outlet 14-30 to a 20amp breaker and this required him to use a “suicide cord”. The components I need to swap are the breaker and the plug/switch.

Like I said, the electrical inspector approved my barn panel with the neutral and ground tied together. Must been code approved 8 years ago and they made me install 2 ground rods at the barn.
My property was built in 1995 and while this might have been to code then, it’s. It now for sure. Lot has changed in 20+ years! Lol And upon further investigation, I found more issues with the electrical situation in the house itself. See below

After your electrician gets the panel straightened up for you, do not ever be tempted to run your genny inside that barn - even with a door open etc.
We have a shed for the generator outside.

So, upon further investigation, I traced the power source to the barn. Originally I was thinking they tapped off the meter lines. This isn’t the case. I located the heavy gauge wire going from the barn to the house. It runs to the s enemy into the breaker box. When I opened the breaker box I didn’t see anything larger than a 30Amp breaker. No way the barn was running on a 30Amp.

I took the panel off and upon undoing the last screw the panel literally flew off the box. Turns out there were a couple of breakers under the panel cover.

They didn’t even have the proper cover for the box!

Under the cover were more breakers. Including a 100amp that powers the barn and a bunch of sketchy wiring and a ton of unused breakers just stacked in there for storage.

We will be going breaker by breaker to find out what’s what. Nothing is labeled properly.
 

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It's kinda tough to eliminate the suicide cord hazard without an automatic transfer switch.

Case in point. Get rid of the female dryer receptacle and wire in a 30 amp male cord cap with some soow cord. Power goes out, kill the main, fire up the generator, plug in the cord cap and flip the 2 pole 30.

Day to day with no power issues just leave the soow cord coiled up on a hook with the 2 pole 30 breaker OFF. Turn that breaker on and you have a live male cord cap just waiting. You could wire in a small disconnect or snap switch for redundancy to the breaker.

You anywhere near the eastern u.p.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's kinda tough to eliminate the suicide cord hazard without an automatic transfer switch.

Case in point. Get rid of the female dryer receptacle and wire in a 30 amp male cord cap with some soow cord. Power goes out, kill the main, fire up the generator, plug in the cord cap and flip the 2 pole 30.

Day to day with no power issues just leave the soow cord coiled up on a hook with the 2 pole 30 breaker OFF. Turn that breaker on and you have a live male cord cap just waiting. You could wire in a small disconnect or snap switch for redundancy to the breaker.

You anywhere near the eastern u.p.?
Nope, just north of Grand Rapids.

This is what I was hoping to install instead of the dryer receptacle.

http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ProductDetail.aspx?PB30

Generator cord for the generator we are getting.
https://m.harborfreight.com/25-ft-x...d-62308.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

Here’s the generator btw
https://m.harborfreight.com/8750-ma...pa-iii-with-gfci-outlet-protection-63085.html
 

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I’m another retired electrician who kept up with all the required code update classes. Have a qualified licensed electrician rework what you have. The life you save may be your own.
 

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I’m another retired electrician who kept up with all the required code update classes. Have a qualified licensed electrician rework what you have. The life you save may be your own.
SAME HERE........BP Rises every time I read this forum.
After 36 years and updates happening daily in the industry, I myself read before I add something because when I started, circuit breakers were just becoming the norm.
I still believe in fuses.PERIOD!
 
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