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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Truck is still up For Sale:

Ford '93 F-150 XLT 2WD w/Tow Pkg, Suspension Pkg, Pwr Group, Auto trans, 5.0 with low miles (less than 88k), bed liner, cap, etc. etc.......

Looking for $2000 or best offer........next stop is donating it to charity:(










PM me if you are interested or leave a message here and I'll get back with you soon.

Thanks,

-LB :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Truck is 2WD.
Very clean interior, almost like new inside.
I'll consider all "reasonable" offers.......like I said, next stop goes to chartiy.

Oh yeah, a donation to the site if it sells here :p

Thanks,

-LB :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
E-mail sent.
The truck can be yours this week if you like.
It is sitting my driveway taking up space right now.

-LB :)
 

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how long has the knock being going on?
are you sure it is a low end knock?
Is there any rust on the truck?
what type of bed liner is on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another e-mail sent.
Call me.


-LB :)
 

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My father might be stopping in, he'll call you to find your house. he asked people at work and they said that the knock might be the crank shaft and it would cost more than $630.00 to fix it? I say it would be worth it but my dad has the final say.
 

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A general rule about engine knocks (I didn't notice it in any of the posts other than a reply by the way) is if you let off the accelerator it is bottom end noise. So say you are driving down the street at 45mph and let off the accelerator completely you will hear a knock knock knock, but not as bad while accelerating to 45mph (if that makes sense). That being said minimum $700-$2000 at a shop, depending on where you go or who you know.

The most common knock is a bad lifter. Sound would be prevelent at start-up and stay consistant pretty much while driving. described as a moderate to loud-ting-ting. Very inexpensive as far as repairs go $60-$200.

Have seen some strange knocks on f150's of that era. You can aquire a knock with bad wires of all things. The more cris-crossed the spark plug wires are where they are installed, the more you induce spark into another cyl making the cyl fire out of order.

If you guys need engine work done I know some really reasonable guys down river who closed shop but do work out of their house and work with me in the engine lab at Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The knock is audible during start up and under load, while accelerating for instance but, it pretty much goes away when you let off the gas.

Sure would like to find out what it is especially if a repair could be made for $60 to $200 or so. If I could fix it for that much I'd be asking much more than the $2000 tag right now.

At any rate, the truck has to go. I just don't have the time or room to get it done. I hope it will find another good home soon.

CJ, it was nice meeting your father this evening. Maybe it will work out for you, and me.

-LB :)
 

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new twist, worst case is rod knock. might be a wrist pin.

if you catch it early enough you can change the bearings with undersize bearings (-.001 or -.002) and it will last a long long time. More labor involved in that than anything. but depending on how far you have to go the labor would be... guess $500? and the parts would be $90+$30.

So whoever said $635 was pretty darn close to what I was thinking too. So maybe they meant rod knock rather than crank bearing which would be substantially more money.

Now these prices are for having the work done at an engine shop. Having a local builder do it you can save $ but not have a warranty. But my experience is if somebody knows what they are doing you won't run into problems as even a guy like me can rebuild these.

But I started in 92 so I missed a lot of 5.0L work. I have rebuilt more 4.6L than I can say...
 
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