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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering what some of your opinions are on the length a force fetch table should be.

Also, how elaborate do they need to be? I was thinking of buying an eight foot serving table and drilling spots for poles at each end.

Feel free to share any other advice.


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Depends on how much room you have. I started with a 6' table now I have a 24' table. Mine stands 32" tall(I am 6' )
 

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I will send pics of my table when I get home from work . I am currently force fetching my youngest pup .

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3' to 40'(length) let your imagunation go wild.
personally I like shorter length tables that are scatter about the training yard and they are movable I like being able to train from different locations in the yard.
FF is a process I usually go back to thru-out the dogs teaching and learning career.
It really is what ever works for you!
 

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is the table needed? Vance probably used it with Ty, but what he showed me to do was on the ground. is it just to save trainers back? or more to control the dog?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
is the table needed? Vance probably used it with Ty, but what he showed me to do was on the ground. is it just to save trainers back? or more to control the dog?

That's a good point. Hopefully someone who is smarter than me can answer that. It's my understanding that the table is important to make sure that the trainer retains control of the dog until he is executing well enough to move to the ground.


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Either way I have been taught both ways. I prefer on the ground but I have the table if needed
 

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is the table needed? is it just to save trainers back? or more to control the dog?


Both! And depending on the size of the dog it brings the dog and handler
to more of an eye level. Old saying "Eye level, means buy level" really does apply here.
Also after FF the dog has learn how to learn, using the "Table places" is also where i introduce every new situation possible that can to dog. Intro to birds, into gun, intro to multiple marks, stand alone marking drills, bird in mouth marking drill diversion birds,pile exercises, steady to wing and shot and so on.
Transitions just seem to go smoother and dog makes the adjustments to the new requests for complicated behaviors seamlessly.

This English Cocker show bred pup doing stand alone marks from one her favorite places. Beginning distances I was at 100 yrds mark. You can see
her sharp attention span. This is one of benches she was FF on!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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Both! And depending on the size of the dog it brings the dog and handler
to more of an eye level. Old saying "Eye level, means buy level" really does apply here.
Also after FF the dog has learn how to learn, using the "Table places" is also where i introduce every new situation possible that can to dog. Intro to birds, into gun, intro to multiple marks, stand alone marking drills, bird in mouth marking drill diversion birds,pile exercises, steady to wing and shot and so on.
Transitions just seem to go smoother and dog makes the adjustments to the new requests for complicated behaviors seamlessly.

This English Cocker show bred pup doing stand alone marks from one her favorite places. Beginning distances I was at 100 yrds mark. You can see
her sharp attention span. This is one of benches she was FF on!

Thanks! Very informative.


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You can get by with an 8ft table, but I recommend a 12 to 16 force break table. The biggest mistake guys make force breaking a dog, is taking the dog off the table before the dog consistantly makes retrieves the full length of the table regardless of the table length.
 

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Takes the dog out of its element. 1 4x8 x 1/2 plywood cut length wise. 4 saw horses. 4 hinges. Cut 1 half of 4x8 in half so u have 1--2x8 & 2-- 2×4. Hinge each 2x4 to each end of 2x8. Now u have 1 2x16 that folds to 2x4 for storage. I ran 4 x 3/4 x 8 on 2x8 edges for strength, preventing bowing. Worked very well for various training exercises. My chesie didn't like it, lol.. My brit loved it. Again for me it was effective training tool and took dog out of its element. IMO..
 
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