I replaced the floor in my old Glasstron Speedboat, and it is not that bad, use good wolmanized plywood, stainless screws, and make sure you mark where those go good!!!! Putting a screw in a gas tank or fuel line is not too good... Have a plan, and take your time, and buy some rot-a-way stuff to save any stringers that are rotten, and then buy some fiberglass risen, and coat all the wood with it, front and back, that will make it last a long time, before you have to do it again.
The best way of doing it to the plywood, is to cut and fit the plywood, fiberglass it front and back, mark the screw holes, by measuring where they go, and at the sides if you can, and might want to attach carpeting before you screw the plywood in place, depending on your boat. It's a lot easier this way, and don't forget seat mounts, etc, before attaching the plywood.
Try to save the old pieces of plywood for a pattern, and buy enough materials, I always try to overbuild, like making the plywood 3/4 instead of the orginal 1/2, to make it last a long time.... Hope my hints help, Greg
I did a complete boat rebuild in '98, and replacing the flooring ain't too bad.
The flooring is more than likely pop riveted to the ribs. Make sure you carefully drill these out.
Use the old flooring sections as an exact pattern for your new sections, this way the rivet holes will line up perfectly (hopefully). Drilling new holes into the ribs is not adviseable because it will compromise the overall integrity of your hull.
Use aluminum rivets to refasten, and not screws. #1) screws will eventually work loose, and #2) using ss screws to attach to aluminum ribs means different metals are contacting each other = electrolysis which leads to corrosion which means the screws will eventually weaken & break.
One thing you might wanna do when the flooring is up, is take the opportunity to use spray-in foam between the hull & new floor. Careful, tho, because this stuff really expands. In the end it will increase hull strength, quiet your rig, and make the ride less rough.
greg531.and eastern yooper, thanks for your responses! I ended up buying 5/8"cdx smooth 1 side for starters.I measured just under 6 feet wide,and from transom to door of cuddy is just under 12 feet long. I got 3 sheets of the cdx. Ended up with some aluminum rivets. Not sure if I got the correct size rivetts.May need a bit of advice on that one guys.With 5/8 board doI need just a bit longer than the wood beign used? Plan on getting an assortment of self tapping screws , those I can take out and match up .Just ?`ing the rivetts I got at this point.Tried getting 12-15 yards of marine vinyl at west marine ,that was a bust. As most everywere in T.C they had to order it and would take 3-4 weeks...25 bucks a yard seeded a bit much?Cabelas I read has it for alot better,15 bucks a yard and if I buy a certain ammount theres no shipping.Any help in this project from you is greatly appreciated for sure. The resin that was mentioned is that mixed with the hardener? or brushed on straight? Would anything else work for the waterproofing? Like what I use on deck refurbishing ect. ? Man I hope I dont miss all the early brown fishing.Thanks guys
The longer the rivets, the better. Go at least 1" length, 1 1/8" would be better.
Can't answer the resin question, but if you're putting treated plywood down, it will last 15 years if left exposed. You putting vinyl on top will waterproof the exposed side, so I personally woudn't worry about sealing the wood on the underside.
Less than two weeks to turkey, and a little over a month to the walleye opener. I CAN'T WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!
Unless your boat was built using stainless screws, go with aluminum rivets. Many newer boats use rivets for most of the flooring and stainless screws for the access panels.
His idea on the spray-in foam is also a very good one. Never heard that before but it makes a whole lot of sense. I've seen boats with blocks of styrofoam under the floors before, I'm assuming there's some added safety floation in the foam as well.
I used 5/8" plywood that I treated with fibergass on one side ,and used carpeting glue on the other side .I let the glue dry and that is on the bottom side , fiberglass side up , added floatation ,rivetted it back ,glueed carpeting to the fiberglass plywood floor , and I'm fishin . This was on a 16.5 ft Blue Finn . I also beefed up any area that had a seat .
Thanks all for your tips. I need to take the dog house out and replace the hinges ect, and 2 boxes that my seats sit upon which is were my 2 gas tanks are located.Must remove them too.When I get everything demoed, vinyl tore-up rivets drilled ect. Also were the floor goes under the side panels do I unscrew them and slide them out of the channels along the bottom , to better remove old floor? I`m going to treat the 5/8 tomorrow , and start my project. Appreciate all your input guys...
Side panels: Yes, it would be ideal to remove them alltogether as well; it'll make removing & replacing the floor a hell of alot easier.
These big panels are probably riveted to the side, and the aluminum bracket at the bottom is s-s screwed to the floor. Drill the rivets out holding it to the side of the boat, but keep the entire panel and aluminum floor bracket attached as one.
These side panels add a fair amount of rigidity to your hull. Once you take those off, you'll be surprised how easily the hull "gives".... so its very important to solidly replace them.
If I lived anywhere close to you, I'd come help. I really enjoy refurbishing boats. I've given serious thought to opening up a side business, but whats stopping me is that I know it'd cut into my fishing time.
EY, cutting into our fishing time, I hate when that happens pal! I`ve got a guest house, if you got the time lol...Thanks for the heads up on the panels.Just located some 3/4"long rivets in gaylord @ mid states fastners.Was going to order the marine vinyl and adheisive from cabelas ? Anywere else that doesnt charge 25.00/yard? Cabelas is 16.99/yard and the glue is 16.99/gal? The sides use the 5/8"flanged rivets and the 3/8"flanged on floor from what I can see.Didnt want to start the demo until I get all materials to complete job. PS we`ll feed ya like a king also...
Just an update on my project. 6 hours in and I`ve got everything out, vinyl pulled, and rivets drilled.Tomorrow will try to get the floor up, it had the foam sprayed inside and might be stuck to the underside of the deck...Hope I can loos`n it without it all falling apart.To play it safe thought I would do a good job measuring the excisting floor and make a drawing, if the floor does fall apart on me `i`ll have the size board`s needed to replace...Sure hope it holds together.
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