Yes and was happy with the outcome. Rented a jackhammer with a pipe driving head. Much easier than using a hand fence post driver.

 

You’ll need a generator to run a pump unless you use a pitcher style pump.

 

I drove a point down 20 feet, connected it to a pump from HF and used a 2000W generator to run it. I always had problems with it loosing prime when I was away so I would fill up 3 5 gallon buckets with lids to prime the system. I could irrigate my apple trees, clean up after field dressing a deer and fill my watering holes. Worth the small expense.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-...teel-shallow-well-pump-and-tank-with-pressure-control-switch-950-gph-63407.html

 

I drove a point down, connected it to a pump from HF and used a 2000W generator to run it. I always had problems with it loosing prime when I was away so I would fill up 3 5 gallon buckets with lids to prime the system

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-...teel-shallow-well-pump-and-tank-with-pressure-control-switch-950-gph-63407.html

Check valve should stop having to reprime it. Also to keep pipe n pump from damage if freezing check valve and pump needs to be removed before freeze and a cap on pipe to keep debris from plugging pipe/pump next time of use. Store pump n ckeckvalve in a dry place during off use basement, shed, garage etc., after removing/draining water from it.

 

Red pine plantation 2019

• Wis wood duck
• Aug 9, 2019

Red pine plantation 2019

1 1/2” sand point 15’ to water hooked up to two sprinklers waters plot, apple trees, water hole and screen. Like it was said before we take off check valve, cap the pipe and put generator away early fall.

 

As you drive the pipe you need to keep tightening the pipe with a pipe wrench. Every minute or so you should rotate the pipe with the pipe wrench to keep everything tight.

 

[........
Like it was said before we take off check valve, cap the pipe and put generator away early fall.

If your check valve is down 15', why take it off ?

L & O

 

He did not post check valve is 15' down but 15' to water. In the summer remove cap, install check valve to threaded pipe then use pipe elbow to Union this to pump. Usually after priming good to go throughout summer. Occasionally if in full sun and a month has gone by water in pump may evaporate and a cup of water to prime may or can be needed but not the original amount needed to draw water up sections of pipe to check valve. In fall remove union, unscrew check valve and pipe with other end of union off well head. Screw cap on well head. Is usually what is the procedure. Also with other check valves this can easily be used on other wells with the union, easy on and off. The biggest priming is the initial priming to bring water to check valve.

The reason check valve is removed is to allow water to recede down to point. This keeps water from freezing and bursting, splitting pipe/well.

 

Point about tightening pipe while driving is spot on.
Also foriegn made unions tend to be difficult to tighten to air leak free state.
I have a fitting below my check valve to drain the well line to the point for winter storage. Some check valves are only for vertical or horizontal installation no both interchangably.
Hope this helps.
I believe all wells are required to be registered with the state but could be mistaken for driven points.
Hear Fishie Fishie

 

I am interested in doing the same. What is the cost. I would like one at the back of my property. I don't think I will have to go to far down, maybe 15'.

 

Just put a 23 ft 2 " well by my wife's pool got close to $600 not counting the pump .I wouldn't go less than 2 " though .If you have a very shallow water table you might consider a 6 ' casing well with a 6 foot screen and a semi trash gasoline pump .Lots of water if you can hit gravel .

 

I second the 2” well. You can put a smaller pump on the 2” and upgrade later if needed.

If only I had known...

 

Picked up the 2” supplies
For this weekend and next week if needed .

 

Labor free 20 yr old son .

Does he travel?

 

Menards— well point and 4 lengths of 5’
Pipe plus 1 length of 3’ pipe $ 300.
Broken jack hammer bit $ 20 from a rental Shop . 2 1/2 cap free welding free
Jack hammer and generator rental ???
Not to much - I hope I’m thinking $400 I hope
For everything. Labor free 20 yr old son .

What was the three inch for?

 

I just put one in this year by water jetting it from a 300 gallon tank. 2" pvc drill bit then put the 1.25 inch pvc pipe down after getting to the desired depth. Now that I have the setup built to "drill" I can put in pvc sand points in for about $20. Check out YouTube "drill your own well". Start with part 1. Only will work in sandy soil. Took me about 45 minutes to go down 15' start to finish.

 

jiw275 3’ length of pipe
Not 3” length of pipe
4 five foot length’s of
Pipe = 20 feet
Plus 1 three foot length
Of pipe
And a 4 foot point
Totaling 27 feet of pipe

 

Thnx. Bad reading on my part.

 

Make sure you buy drive couplings and not regular couplings ...they are expensive but can save a lot of grief .

 

Thanks for the heads up
You’ve saved me some BS and aggravation .

 

Point about tightening pipe while driving is spot on.
Also foriegn made unions tend to be difficult to tighten to air leak free state.
I have a fitting below my check valve to drain the well line to the point for winter storage. Some check valves are only for vertical or horizontal installation no both interchangably.
Hope this helps.
I believe all wells are required to be registered with the state but could be mistaken for driven points.
Hear Fishie Fishie

They all can be difficult if not properly cared for. The flared edges should be coated with a Vasaline type pipe sealant (forgot the exact name) during storage and cleaned with steel wool and resealed during assembly. One spec of sand or a nick can compromise the seal. Never had an issue in 25 years doing this with a pump for the lawn sprinklers.

 

The downside of having a shallow well. It is only good for that immediate plot. If you have 20, 40, 80 acres or more many will have multiple plots and not close proximity to utilize that one well head. This may solve that issue at a fraction of the cost.

Do not know if this is feasible but looks like it may have an advantages especially if someone has multiple plots to water. The downside to this is the tank does not have baffles and even 275 gallons is heavy without the sloshing. If you ever transported one with forks on frontend loader to water trees you would understand the situation/concern. I need to get connections but already have 2 tanks, trailer, trash pump so besides labor minimal investment on connections to see if this is feasible. Any one use this method for irrigating now?

Also an advantage the trash pump can fill tanks from pond. The advantages of pond water rather than hard water from wells is significant not only soft water but has nitrogen already in it naturally and will be helpful for plants and soil.