[fishenfreak]

I'm having a big problem with my year old pup. Hes a mix between a field springer and a enlish setter. When i tell him to come he doenst even move a musle unless i have a treat for him. Its especially a pain right now when the weather is cold and i call him and he doesnt. And i tried a couple of things to try to make him come but he just gets and attitude about them. So what im asking is if anybody can give me any ideas that could work on my stubborn pup
thanx Fishenfreak

 

[whitedogone]

Does he know the comand? If he knows it and just doesn't come then it's time for a shock collar. They are a must in my book. Just make sure that you know how to use them properly.

 

[Robert W. McCoy Jr]

I have found this to work well.

I usually take the dogs out in the yard when they are young.

I take a long lead 15 feet or so and I wrap it around there torso and back up to there collar.

I teach them whoo and Here using this trick.

The whoo command is usually useless for me but by teaching them these two commands they soon learn I am in controll.

It's a mind game when you have them wraped up like that and you pull on that lead they don't know what is going on.

I find it really helps them handling wise down the road.

Any type of proper obediance training will totally turn a dog attitude around I have found.

Dog actually love to be trained when they are having fun doing it. Keep it short and fun. But you have to let them know that they have to listen.

Another trick is the down command. I start pushing them down and telling them DOWN very sternly. Then I let them up and play with them. Then I do it again and again.

If they won't come you can usualy down them.

The reason I do the down command sternly is beacuse it is the last straw for me. When I say down they know I mean it.


__________________
Gunrunners Beagles

Have Dogs will travel

 

[fishenfreak]

im going to try one of those tricks to help train my dog. The sooner he gets trained were going to hunting all day every day
thanx for the tips

 

[Vizsla Hunt Dog]

I disagree with the use of the e-collar in this case. If the dog does not know the command in the first place, he will not repsond to the e-collar. The e-collar is for reinforcment of a known command.

I do agree with Robert. However, in my case I use a 30' lead. You can do what I call the body wrap (as Robert described it) or just attach the lead to a prong collar. Seeing that it is cold out, you could probably work on this in the basement or the house. To start off, you can probably use a regular leash and collar for this excercise.

Get the dog to heel beside you as you walk around. Continue in one direction. As you see the dog pull ahead of you or start to stray, immediately turn in the other direction and issue the come command. Try this a couple of times and see what happens. He will start paying attention to your every move and heel a little better. He will also see that if he comes when called, he won't hit the end of the leash.

Next, take up half of the 30' lead and the the dog venture out to the end. Let him play around a bit and then issue the come command (only once). In that instant, if you see that he is not responding, give a quick little tug and go the other way. When he gets back to you, lavish him with praise and cookies. Repeat until you no longer need the tug and then move out to 30'.

A quick little word about commands. You may know this already, but I find that people tend to get pissed off or really upset when their dogs don't repond to a command they think the dog knows. As this happens, the voice becomes loaded and your body posture gets defensive. Dogs can sense this and they will stay away. A command should only be issued once and in a normal tone - unless it is an emergency.

Another trick that I have used when a dog will not come. If the dog is off leash and will not respond, let him be for a minute. When you are ready to issue the command, get down on your knees (at the dogs level) and give the command in your most happy sounding voice. Laugh, giggle, make a fool of yourself. The dog should come running in.

Once the dog will come in all conditions and repsond to the command 100% in all environments, you can start overlaying hand signals or a whistle. For me, I move my right hand towards my belly button. When the dog comes in, he will stand in front. If I want him to heel, I pat my left side with my left hand. If he is to sit in front, I raise my right hand to my sternum. If you ever get a chance, check out some obedience trials at your local AKC show. You will be amazed at the control and different techniques used.

Hopefully what I said makes sense. It is easier to do and harder to explain.

Good luck.

- Jeff

 

[FieldWalker]

None of this works overnight... Avoid all negative reactions as well as negative tones in voice. Also, as VHD said, do this in the house, yard etc... don't start training out in the woods, field, or any other foreign place.

-Scott

 

[omega58]

Everyone has had good advice, just one little trick to add since the dog responds well to treats. When it is outside hold out your hand with a treat and have him come, but don't have him come inside yet. At the time, he may not want to come inside even though you want him to. . .he will associate come with 'no more fun outside'!! When he comes give him the treat and lots of praise and then release, play, whatever command for letting him continue to be outside. After doing this a few times he will associate 'come' with something good. . . . don't give a treat each time, every other or something will work after a few times. A good pet and 'good boys' will work like a treat and he will love it when he can go play again. Then when you want him to 'come' he should get better. . . as others have said use it everywhere.

 

[GSP2]

I agre with O58 and the others. Consistant training, short periods of time and away from distractions. Using the treats, be sure to mix up up a bit, start with the treats and then slowly work away from them. In the end, praise from you will bring the dog in. You should see favorable results in a short period of time.

I also go a step further. I incorporate my release command at the same time. I'll begin this early so the pup learns that "Go on" means he can break from sitting, heeling, staying...it is almost learned by osmosis if used consistantly.