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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a quick question. I normally wouldn't think anything about this but I just made my first string set so I may be looking a little too hard for a problem.

Here's the deal. My bow was tuned very well before changing the string/cables and nothing else was touched, now with the new string set the p.o.i. is about 3-3.5" left of where it was previously.

I wouldn't think a new string set would drastically change the p.o.i. horizontally, but I really don't know. I noticed the d-loop that was on the bow when I bought it was tied opposite of the way I tied it (top knot on left of string, bottom on right), and was thinking this may be the cause of the change.

So here is the question: Would the d-loop knots cause such a difference, should I look for another cause, or is it common for p.o.i. to change side to side that much when changing strings? Thanks for any info.

oh, and btw, on a positive note, after about 100 shots I still have no peep rotation on my string so I'm pretty happy with my first attempt at string making(and honestly pretty surprised:lol:)
 

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I've personally never noticed a difference but that's not to say it can't happen. I personally would check my poundage and see if by chance I affected my spine by going lighter/heavier.
 

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Check all of your specs. ATA, brace height, cam timing etc. It is not uncommon to experience what you are describing. Always document the specs once the bow is tuned so you can quickly find what changed and return to the proper spec. Same string/cable material? I do not think the D-loop is your problem. Remember that these strings and cable need to be shot in 100 arrows minimum before you want to lock down your settings.
 

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Changing your string can certainly change things drastically.

The D Loop knots won't make any difference...it's the new string.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I figured the loop couldn't be the difference, I just thought maybe the orientation of the knots would result in a slightly different release. That may be a little far fetched, but I'm pretty new to doing my own tuning, etc., so I figured I'd ask:D

I set all the specs back to what they were previously, although I stopped with ATA about 1/16th longer, I didn't see that as a problem. Cam timing seems perfect and brace height is about perfect as well. Also, the draw weight is virtually the same as before(I'm working with a scale that only has markings in 2 pound increments, but it read right in-between 72 and 74 lbs. both before and after the string change)

Anyway, I shot a bit more with it this morning and everything seems fine. I'll re-adjust for the new p.o.i. and proceed with paper tuning, etc. I suspect everything is probably fine.
 

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Yeah get a few shots into it and than tune.
Even the best made strings will take a little time to settle in.

Odd that the ATA is out bu the brace is on though:confused:

Those 2 are tied together pretty close, especially anything with the parallel limbs.

What kind of bow is it?
 

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between the new string and cables and the loop your anchor point could be slightly different causing you to slightly torque to get the old anchor point
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah get a few shots into it and than tune.
Even the best made strings will take a little time to settle in.

Odd that the ATA is out bu the brace is on though:confused:

Those 2 are tied together pretty close, especially anything with the parallel limbs.

What kind of bow is it?
I know even the best strings will need to settle in and these are definitely not the best:lol: I will be keeping close tabs on all the specs for a while.

The bow is a Darton Pro3000.

When I said the brace is perfect, that may have been misleading, It is perfect to what it was before, not perfect to spec. I'll try and explain:

ATA is supposed to be 34 1/2" with a 6 1/4" brace. ATA is 34 5/8" right now(was 34 9/16" before). Brace is 6 1/8" right now(same as before). I know the numbers are not dead on, and they weren't before either, but this seems to be where the bow likes it.

I tried to get the numbers perfect with the factory string and my groups suffered, so I went right back to the above settings. I have read(not saying it's right) that 1/8" +/- is acceptable for ATA as well as brace height, so hearing that along with the fact that the bow likes to shoot at those specs. makes me think it's ok......?....?

I don't know, I have taken in so much info. on tuning and string making in the last couple weeks that I know most of it has not been absorbed.:dizzy: I'm just thankful for these forums and you guys who've 'been there, done that', and can help with advice on these issues.
 

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Those specs make sense. Longer AtA will reduce BH. And visa versa. Don't be afraid to experiment once the string is shot in. It's the single best way to learn. Just remember the number of twists you put into what so you can always return it to the beginning.
 
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