[sureshot006]

definitely more area to loose things, and believe me I have. It is the trade off, but I have learned to mitigate risk pretty well over the years. You just have to understand that the hole becomes a force field and anything even kinda able WILL fly directly into it.

Trust me, I know it is annoying, but I just can't do those small holes. Especially walleye fishing.

Its a trade off for sure... most fish you catch on the bay are "stuck" in an 8" hole but often can turn around in a 10". But getting a monster started in a 10 is quite a bit easier.

 

[Stand By]

Anyone try one on a 10" bit?

If I was pissing around on an inland lake I could stomach fishing through 8", but it would bother me. I am so used to fishing the Bay for walleye and perch that I almost hate using even 8" holes, but I will if needed.

For perch I want to see. So that is usually 2 or 3 holes with my jiffy.

I really like the idea though and after seeing my cousins work the other day I was really impressed with how good it cut, no idea on the set up though. Other than the bit is just too small for me.

Other electric augers do not impress me at all. The Ion is terrible. You can't cut two holes at all without the bit slipping into the other hole. I can set my jiffy down anywhere and it cuts exactly where I tell it to.

Just curious. I like this for a lighter set up for walking.

You can always drill out 3 or 4 leaf clovers and knock out the centers. I do that with my 8" when targeting bigger fish. The one time I didn't do it, because I was expecting smaller lakers, I had a huge, beautiful one on. Got him to the hole after a couple runs and trying to get the gaff down to him, I snapped off. He would've been next to the fireplace.

 

[sureshot006]

You can always drill out 3 or 4 leaf clovers and knock out the centers. I do that with my 8" when targeting bigger fish. The one time I didn't do it, because I was expecting smaller lakers, I had a huge, beautiful one on. Got him to the hole after a couple runs and trying to get the gaff down to him, I snapped off. He would've been next to the fireplace.

Used to make long 8" by X ft holes by drilling next to one another in a line then chip out the remainder. Nice long swipe with the gaff.

 

[7mmsendero]

Who all runs one and what was your first impression. I was blown away at how easily it allows u to cut holes. Cheap 7" Eskimo auger. And milwaukee 18v fuel drill cut like a warm knife thru butter but could use an extension for the auger


Sent from my moto e6 using Michigan Sportsman mobile app

I have the same setup, but use different augers. Really nice.

 

[Fishsmith85]

I’ve got the geared clam plate. First time out the gears shattered. Took 6 months to get it replaced by them because they had such a large problem. New one works great though, zero issues and drills 8” holes with ease. I only really use it when the ice is 8+ inches


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sureshot006]

I’ve got the geared clam plate. First time out the gears shattered. Took 6 months to get it replaced by them because they had such a large problem. New one works great though, zero issues and drills 8” holes with ease. I only really use it when the ice is 8+ inches


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did they say what happened? Manufacturing/material problem?

 

[SkiSoloII]

I do not have the geared model. I've had it since early on. I have the direct drive version. I've drilled a lot of holes with a 5" Lazer and a Rigid hammer drill (not set to hammer, of course). I have a 7" on it now, and with the limited number of holes I've drilled with that setup, it is working well.

 

[straightShot]

I have one with an 8" Nils. I really like it. I can keep the auger out away from my body and hold the clam plate easliy with both hands. When done, the drill motor is usually up out of the snow since it's in the plate and rests above the ice. I used to drill without the plate and just hold my drill, but now I feel like I have more control with holding the handles and keeping the auger out away from my body. For me, the investment was well worth it.

Last night, I took it one step further and put one of the improved-style Clam gear boxes on it that I just ordered. It's the first time that I've had a gear box on it, and since I just put it on, I haven't used it on the ice yet.

When I would run the drill without the gearbox attached and hold it out away from me such as when putting my drill motor back on the plate and testing it in the house, the yellow Cold Snap protective blade cover would fly off when I would stop operating the drill. Without the gearbox, it had a noticeable start and stop moment to it. Operating with the gear box attached inline didn't result in a hard stop at all and the cover didn't fly off after multiple attempts. Instead, it seemed much smoother. I'm liking the addition of the gearbox already. I can't wait to drill some holes with this modified setup.

 

[sureshot006]

I have one with an 8" Nils. I really like it. I can keep the auger out away from my body and hold the clam plate easliy with both hands. When done, the drill motor is usually up out of the snow since it's in the plate and rests above the ice. I used to drill without the plate and just hold my drill, but now I feel like I have more control with holding the handles and keeping the auger out away from my body. For me, the investment was well worth it.

Last night, I took it one step further and put one of the improved-style Clam gear boxes on it that I just ordered. It's the first time that I've had a gear box on it, and since I just put it on, I haven't used it on the ice yet.

When I would run the drill without the gearbox attached and hold it out away from me such as when putting my drill motor back on the plate and testing it in the house, the yellow Cold Snap protective blade cover would fly off when I would stop operating the drill. Without the gearbox, it had a noticeable start and stop moment to it. Operating with the gear box attached inline didn't result in a hard stop at all and the cover didn't fly off after multiple attempts. Instead, it seemed much smoother. I'm liking the addition of the gearbox already. I can't wait to drill some holes with this modified setup.

It should be lower RPM. Possibly why it seems less abrupt.

 

[Michael Wagner]

A good little investment is a spring on the trigger arm, helps when you let off the trigger. I spent about $3.00 for the spring and 2 clamps. I put my setup together 3 years ago and love it, Keeps my drill up out of the snow, 6" lazer, Milwaukee Fuel, 5 ah batts I get easily over 50 holes.

 

[sureshot006]

A good little investment is a spring on the trigger arm, helps when you let off the trigger. I spent about $3.00 for the spring and 2 clamps. I put my setup together 3 years ago and love it, Keeps my drill up out of the snow, 6" lazer, Milwaukee Fuel, 5 ah batts I get easily over 50 holes. View attachment 634467

Sweet. I like it

 

[Michael Wagner]

Sweet. I like it

Note the eletrical tape, no matter how much I tightened the little screws the clamps kept slipping.

 

[Dish7]

A good little investment is a spring on the trigger arm, helps when you let off the trigger. I spent about $3.00 for the spring and 2 clamps. I put my setup together 3 years ago and love it, Keeps my drill up out of the snow, 6" lazer, Milwaukee Fuel, 5 ah batts I get easily over 50 holes. View attachment 634467

Just watched a YouTube video on installing that exact spring set up last week. Wasn't you was it?

 

[Michael Wagner]

Just watched a YouTube video on installing that exact spring set up last week. Wasn't you was it?

Nope wasn't me I did this a couple years ago, seen it on an icefishing page. Makes a nice difference, instead of the drill trigger shutting it off the spring does it.

 

[Guy63]

I have one with a ridged drill and love it.

 

[sureshot006]

Note the eletrical tape, no matter how much I tightened the little screws the clamps kept slipping.

I dont remember if the rod is solid or not... what about drilling a small hole or even partial hole where the screw is to help it stay in place? Could even use some loctite (the non-permanent one) to hold it there. I guess my hesitation would be rust or weakening the rod but maybe it wouldn't.

 

[Michael Wagner]

I dont remember if the rod is solid or not... what about drilling a small hole or even partial hole where the screw is to help it stay in place? Could even use some loctite (the non-permanent one) to hold it there. I guess my hesitation would be rust or weakening the rod but maybe it wouldn't.

The rod is solid, I never thought much more about it, I needed a quick fix and a couple wraps of tape has lasted few years.