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Thanks, I ordered that exact same fuse block! Should be here soon.

Forgot to add that I knew the boat would be a tight fit into my garage. When I got home, it had about 1.5" of clearance from the fenders on each side, but the windshield would not clear the door with the tongue all the way down until I let some air out of the tires. I also struggled with simultaneously getting the trailer lined up while pushing it uphill into the garage. I added a Trailer Valet 5X last week and it gives me a little more clearance, and includes a hand crank (with optional adapter for cordless drill) for driving the trailer uphill, and tiller steer handle with an automatic brake. Pretty slick unit that solved a few issues for me. Now I can get in the garage with 1" of clearance at the top.


Crawfish....what size garage door do you have?


You can usually get about 2" more if you disconnect the garage door opener / cord and push the door back/up manually.

Just surprising that a boat is built that is taller than 82" on the windshield. Since garage doors are 7' tall at minimum.....you can usually get the door up 82.5-83.0".
 

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Crawfish....what size garage door do you have?


You can usually get about 2" more if you disconnect the garage door opener / cord and push the door back/up manually.

Just surprising that a boat is built that is taller than 82" on the windshield. Since garage doors are 7' tall at minimum.....you can usually get the door up 82.5-83.0".
It's a 7' door. The door already opens above the height of the framing and trim, which is about 83", but the boat windshield top was right at 84" with the factory jack at the lowest position. But I appreciate the advice!
 

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Rebuild looks great Goergeb, especially that new Merc. Where did you end of buying your hinges and latches from? Some of the prices from marine suppliers is ridiculously overpriced.
 

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A couple of updates:

  • new o-rings and battery pack in the Fish Hawk probe
  • bilge pump works
  • live well aerator works
  • new bilge plug

I think I have decided to buy a new VHF radio. Upon detailed inspection, it looks like one of the mic wires broke at the PCB solder joint. Resoldering the small joint seems like risky business. I haven’t found replacement mics for sale online. Then the question is why am I trying to keep a 25 year old radio alive? Even if the mic isn’t the root cause of my issues, I’m thinking to go for a new radio and new antenna if that turns out to be the case.
Good choice. You can't go wrong with the Standard Horizon model that Amazon has for right around $134 I think. While you're at it get a MMSI number from BoatUS and you can wire that radio into your GPS and you'll have DSC working which is nice if you have people aboard who are not VHF experienced. One button distress call with GPS coordinates broadcast to any other DSC radio in range. But you probably know all that.
 

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Thanks, I ordered that exact same fuse block! Should be here soon.

Forgot to add that I knew the boat would be a tight fit into my garage. When I got home, it had about 1.5" of clearance from the fenders on each side, but the windshield would not clear the door with the tongue all the way down until I let some air out of the tires. I also struggled with simultaneously getting the trailer lined up while pushing it uphill into the garage. I added a Trailer Valet 5X last week and it gives me a little more clearance, and includes a hand crank (with optional adapter for cordless drill) for driving the trailer uphill, and tiller steer handle with an automatic brake. Pretty slick unit that solved a few issues for me. Now I can get in the garage with 1" of clearance at the top.


It is a sweet looking rig. Nice job!
 

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Removed the old transducer brackets, filled the holes, painted over, and installed new transducer with sealant, that should hopefully keep the little water I had out of the hull. Found that the upper wire guide screw was not sealed at all. Also installed a new bilge pump with a float switch. Waiting on a new set of seats and my front finder RAM mount (ordered the wrong one, shoot) then it is on the water.
 

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Seats are installed!!! Picked them up last weekend from Grandpa and my brother. Saved $60 total plus having them order through them basically, got them at cost. Normally retailed for $150-$160.

Was supposed to go bass fishing tommrow but, the truck is still in the shop getting a couple of deer hits taken care of. Hopefully next Easter Sunday will be the first trip



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Thanks, I ordered that exact same fuse block! Should be here soon.

Forgot to add that I knew the boat would be a tight fit into my garage. When I got home, it had about 1.5" of clearance from the fenders on each side, but the windshield would not clear the door with the tongue all the way down until I let some air out of the tires. I also struggled with simultaneously getting the trailer lined up while pushing it uphill into the garage. I added a Trailer Valet 5X last week and it gives me a little more clearance, and includes a hand crank (with optional adapter for cordless drill) for driving the trailer uphill, and tiller steer handle with an automatic brake. Pretty slick unit that solved a few issues for me. Now I can get in the garage with 1" of clearance at the top.


Love the looks of your boat!
 
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Removed the old transducer brackets, filled the holes, painted over, and installed new transducer with sealant, that should hopefully keep the little water I had out of the hull. Found that the upper wire guide screw was not sealed at all. Also installed a new bilge pump with a float switch. Waiting on a new set of seats and my front finder RAM mount (ordered the wrong one, shoot) then it is on the water.
If you don't mind me asking... Which float switch did you use? I just went through this after a lot of research and review reading and ended up getting a new version of what I had which was the Johnson Pump 36303 Ultima Auto Bilge Pump Switch. It fit the original holes and had better reviews than the usual suspects.
 

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I swapped out my whole pump. Just went with a 750gph attwood with a built in switch. The mount on my old pump broke as I took it out to clean it so needed to replace it anyway.

Sounds like you got lucky in that it broke while you were working on it instead of when you really needed it. I probably worry about bilge pumps and switches more than I need to. My boat is either on the trailer or on a lake with me in it 99% of the time. Occasionally I will get an overnight transient slip and this is where the worry creeps in. With an old aluminum riveted boat like this I have some slow leakage. Enough to trigger the switch overnight? Probably not. But maybe. What about rain? I don't cover the boat (yet) so there's that. Things can happen (Through-Hull fitting or hose fails, etc) and just because I'm hooked up to shore power on the transient docks doesn't guarantee that the pump will kick in. This is just one of those areas that I overthink when replacing or testing the components so that I don't lay awake at night when traveling.

Which leads me to the question I posed to you. I purchased some Attwood items over the years and I just didn't care for any of it. OK, the price was right but the quality was consistent with the low price. I just couldn't rely on that brand for something as important as the float switch. That switch is kind of like an E-Brake or a seatbelt. (that's an exaggeration, I know) in that you really don't often need it but when you "really, really" need it you want to rely on it. When I was poring over reviews on switches I came across lots and lots of bummed out people who found their boats swamped because the switch failed to activate the pump. Who know how many of those were botched installations or other problems but it got me thinking. So I made my choice and even that unit has some crappy reviews but all in all it seemed to me to be the best candidate IMO.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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I must be lucky in that I have not had bad experiences with attwood stuff. I had this same style pump on my last boat and that rig was way more subject to leaking, dirty water, etc and the pump always triggered when it needed to. So I felt comfortable going for it again. I am like you in that I rarely let my boat sit in the water unattended for long periods of time. But, my boat is welded too, so that helps ease some of those fears. I rigged my pump to constantly have power to the auto bilge wire, and left the manual wire hooked up on the dash in case the float fails to switch power on.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Been quietly working on the boat still. Kind of kicking myself in the butt, as I only do one project a winter, so that I am ready to go........ Walleye are ready, but here I am, still correcting a minor issue.

The Transducer mounting board, I installed turned out to be to damn short to adjust the transducer. No matter how high I dared mount it, I was running out of backer, and had a rooster tail of epic proportions.

The solution was to remove the current, fill holes, seal, screw in screws, grind off screw heads, and get new board ordered.

Well, new board arrived last night, went over to Ready2Fish's house, got it cut, routed, anf got it home, and then mounted.

You can see in this first photo, I was out of mounting board.
759913


This is once every thing was removed, holes sealed, then screws, and ground flush,
759915


the electrical tape is markers for the transducer's height, so I do not have to start adjusting from scratch, and can hopefully get dialed in quick.


New board is in, should have plenty of room for any items I need to mount in the future. (Maybe a Fish Hawk, while chasing King Salmon?)

The shiny smudges are sealant from mounting the screws.
759916



So hopfully, I can get out SOON!

OE
 

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My conversion from Evinrude to Mercury outboard is progressing slowly. I just finished the new power distribution setup for the starting battery. The starting battery powers the navigation lights, the bilge pump, the instrument lights along with starting the motor. All the other electronics and the trolling motor are run off a separate dual deep cycle battery setup so no alternator noise gets into the electronics especially the stereo system.

Below is the finished distribution setup that has 4AWG marine wire from the battery to the distribution blocks which then runs to the motor, and the dash switch panel. The battery maintainer / charger is connected here also The distribution blocks are rated for 400 Amps and are way overkill, but that is how I roll.

boat wiring 01.jpg


Next up is the dash re-do which involves a saws-all to make the new switch panel fit into the dash and a lot of new wire and soldering. the old key switch, nav lights, bilge pump and trim switches were slightly bigger than the new switch panel, but I can live with the not perfect fit as it is a 1984 boat.

dash hole.jpg
 

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Got boat out of storage and back from marina.Have to wash and wax it.Load all my fishing gear in it and get it down to rack and launch at Bolles by the 15th.With this nice weather coming,cant wait to get it down there.This will be the earliest that Ive gotten it down since Ive owned the boat.Hey Badger,any tips for me on this early fishing?
 

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I’ve had the boat out twice since Friday. Everything thing has been working good. Only issue I have is had to put a new ignition switch in this last December. Which, involved dropping the control box and taking it apart. Seems like it is clunking into gear more than what I remember. I might have to have my grandpas mechanic’s show me how to adjust the transmission wire

She is ready for the bay as soon as I get over this crud. New trolling bag came in today

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I’ve had the boat out twice since Friday. Everything thing has been working good. Only issue I have is had to put a new ignition switch in this last December. Which, involved dropping the control box and taking it apart. Seems like it is clunking into gear more than what I remember. I might have to have my grandpas mechanic’s show me how to adjust the transmission wire

She is ready for the bay as soon as I get over this crud. New trolling bag came in today

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Is it clunking into gear more because the idle is higher than it used to be? Or do you think its the shift linkage? They are pretty easy to adjust. Most I've seen are adjusted where the control cables enter the outboard cowling.
 

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Is it clunking into gear more because the idle is higher than it used to be? Or do you think its the shift linkage? They are pretty easy to adjust. Most I've seen are adjusted where the control cables enter the outboard cowling.
Could be both she does idle high. When I had the control box apart some stuff kinda came loose. I was able to get everything back together like it should and works fine other than seems to be clunking more. So I didn’t know if shifter cable came out of adjustment


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Could be both she does idle high. When I had the control box apart some stuff kinda came loose. I was able to get everything back together like it should and works fine other than seems to be clunking more. So I didn’t know if shifter cable came out of adjustment


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The adjustments just anchor the cable to the sheath as something to push or pull against at a known position. If putting the box back together didn’t get the cable adjusted exactly like it was, adjusting the other end at the motor will do the same thing and is a lot easier than pulling the box back apart. If it idles high, you might want to back off a little on the throttle at the engine unless it needs a high idle to stay running like some older motors.
 
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