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Thanks @ETW . I will pull the cable out and fiddle with it some more. I am not against buying a new antenna.

What goes bad on an antenna? If the cable isn't obviously damaged, what can wrong? Does it chafe inside the fiberglass mast?
 

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A fiberglass antenna like that can fail internally but it's pretty rare. Most likely the cable has a short somewhere along its length. Probably at the radio connector or where the cable enters the antenna. If it were relatively new I'd say just solder a new PL259 connector on and see how it works but you said it was getting flaky for awhile so it's probably time for a new antenna. They really don't make it easy to replace the cable on those fold down antennas or even possible on some of them.
 

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Kroppe,

I went with a removable antenna, they are in 4 & 8 foot.

Shakespeare QC-8 QuickConnect VHF Antenna - 8 foot | Defender Marine

It might be an idea, going forward if the cable to the antenna is bad.

OE
Pardon me for jumping in but I see it requires a special mount (not included) and you have to supply your own cable with a PL259 on each end? Is that right? I'm going to have to replace mine after this season so I'm seeing what others are buying.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #145
It does require a Quick Disconnect mount w/ cable. I was just posting it as a possible idea should he need to repalce.

Here is a partial cut and past from another thread.




I went with an IComm radio, and a Shakespeare quick connect mount and antenna. Since its line of sight, I got the 8 foot antenna. I can remove it and shove it in the rod locker when not in use.


Antenna:
Shakespeare QC-8 QuickConnect VHF Antenna - 8 foot | Defender Marine

Mount:
Shakespeare QCM-S QuickConnect VHF Antenna Mount - Surface Mount | Defender Marine

Radio:
Icom M330 Fixed Mount VHF Radio | Defender Marine

I was in Muskegon, and picking up Sturgeon Bay in Wisconsin.
I attribute that to the 8 foot antenna. Its well worth it.

OE
 

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I just mounted the QC-8 on my boat. The connector comes in the kit with the mount. No time to really try it out yet other than in the driveway but I wanted the flexibility to remove the antennae when not in use or on inland lake with the family. Same deal for me, take it off and shove it in the rod locker.
 

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I just mounted the QC-8 on my boat. The connector comes in the kit with the mount. No time to really try it out yet other than in the driveway but I wanted the flexibility to remove the antennae when not in use or on inland lake with the family. Same deal for me, take it off and shove it in the rod locker.
I see they include the crimp-on style PL259 connector. FYI, in a marine application (or any application IMO) a crimped antenna connection is a slowly degrading to failure condition waiting for the worst time to fail. Or, maybe it kind of works for radio checks and the sort but limits you to transmitting 1/2 the distance that it used to when you need it. If it were me installing it on my boat I would cut it off and throw it away. Solder a real one on and its one less thing that can bite you. Save the crimp on connectors for for your entertainment radios. Shakespeare should be ashamed for including that in a piece of safety equipment.

Its the little things...
 

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Discussion Starter #148
I have not idea what the connector you are talking about, that's way more then I know on the matter, as far as connectors, but if its on any of the three links I posted above, I have had zero issues with those three items.

OE
 

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I have not idea what the connector you are talking about, that's way more then I know on the matter, as far as connectors, but if its on any of the three links I posted above, I have had zero issues with those three items.

OE
Good deal. Its the connector you had to crimp on to the end of the antenna cable as listed in the link you posted. I wouldn't worry about it now. Just remember that if you start having problems with that radio then the first place to look is that connector on the back of the radio for the antenna.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Gotcha,

I have enough slack, I can cut, re crimp if ever needed.

OE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I used a crimp style on my last rig. Served me well so I thought I would give it a go again. Have a handheld for backup in case of a failure, and cell phone. Nothing is foolproof though so if it acts up at all I will give soldering a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
More changes,

Got the brackets for the Lowrance HDI to mount to the front TM, Have that strapped into place.

UPS delivered the brackets for mounting the transducer cable.

Got everything in place, wire ran down the existing coiled cord, then under the front and out the side with the other wires.

I will now have 2D & Down Imaging, is Lowrance HDI transducer, on the front for jigging, and the DI for when I chase and need to hover over Crappie.

Boat was on water for a test earlier in the week.

Motors are good, all new electronics work as expected.

Picked up ALLOT more then I ever had before with the AirMar transducer.

I didn’t think to make Mark’s on my transom board for measuring.

Transducer was way to low, had a tower of water shooting up next the main motor.

Pulled boat out, raised it and now washes out when on plane.

So made marks 1/8 a apart, and can now get them dialed in.

So should be ready to go by the weekend.

OE
 

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WOW... It finally happened

My new Merc. 60 is mounted on my boat and is in my garage. Now I can begin the retrofit of the dash where the Evinrude key switch was and rework all the other old wiring that I want to update. I am buying the same 4 switch module as mbirdsly pictured up thread as that will cover the dash holes and give me better functionality that just toggle switches. I broke my sonar transducer mount removing the old motor so I need to replace that.

I also picked up a Mercury Vesselview Module that I have to install that will transmit the engine data to a tablet so I can keep track of all the engine information in real time especially RPM during the break in runs.

Lots of things to do prior to the first splash, but I want to make sure I get everything right.

View attachment 755828

A 2021 motor on a 1984 hull Never thought I would see this.
You will love Vesselview, it should come standard on every new motor
 

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Very productive weekend. Got the trolling motor wired, 3 bank inboard charging system installed, Lowrance unit wired to the front of the boat and connected to the TM, Garmin 73sv installed on the dash, and all wires tied up and hidden. Have to put the mount up front for the Lowrance unit, get a trolling motor support rod for towing and driving, and put in a new auto bilge then it's onto the water for the spring shakedown
758515
758516
20210321_191902.jpg
 

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Well, a couple months back I purchased a new boat that was sitting at a dealer in WI. Couple weeks ago I went over to pick it up, and I've been getting her set up for fishing. This weekend I went through the engine break in then fished South Haven and managed a couple fish in the cloudy water.

The boat is a Crestliner Commander 1850 with a 115 Merc Pro XS. I added a battery switch but still need to add a small fuse block in one of the stern compartments to eliminate a few inline fused wires that are currently going to the battery switch. That will clean up the connections to the cranking battery and switch.

Boat was prewired for a bow mount trolling motor. I added a Minn Kota 80# 72" 24V Terrova with iPilot on a MKA-32 quick release bracket, batteries, and a ProMariner 20A 3 bank charger. For now it is connected to just the two trolling motor batteries, but the third bank leads will eventually get connected to the cranking or a house battery. Although the charger is fairly "smart", apparently it's not smart enough to charge two batteries if one set of leads is not connected to a battery. So after some initial frustration resorted to taking a closer look at the manual, I realized I needed to connect the third bank to one of the two batteries until I get around to running wires to a third battery. Now it charges fine. Using the main motor for thrust and the Terrova for steering (most of the time set on 3), I trolled 12 hours on one charge and the batteries were still at 75% according to the motor battery monitor, or 50% according to the charger. iPilot is a game changer for sure.

I added a Garmin 93 SV UHD on a RAM swing arm mount, which mounted nicely on the flat top of the console. This mount is extremely robust. I can swing the screen to the corner of the windshield, or above the steering wheel, and I can swivel the head to watch it through the windshield when fishing from the bow. Only complaint is that the water temperature was varying widely (35-50 every couple of seconds), but I realized that I forgot to add the ferrite or iron noise reduction coil (supplied by Garmin) to the transducer cable, so I am hoping that will resolve the temperature reading issue.


For fishing gear, on each side I mounted a 36" Bert's track to a pair of the Crestliner Suremount downrigger brackets that attach to the built in Suremount track. On each track I have a Big Jon downrigger on a Bert's swivel base, a Bert's rod holder for a dipsy rod, then a rod tree from Superior Fishing Products. I looked at a few different rod trees and I was close to purchasing from rodtrees (dot) com when I stumbled across Superior Fishing Products. Right now, they are only selling rod trees but are working on some ratcheting rod holders. I hear they are currently waiting on materials but I would say they are worth the wait. I'm really happy with the trees and highly recommend them.




 

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Crawfish - That is one bad rig! Congrats! I'd love to see some exterior hull shots.

For the fuse panel, I highly recommend the Blue Seas Blade 6 circuit panel with the integrated negative bus. I forget the part number, but if you buy off amazon, make sure you are getting the PN that includes the cover. They sell it without the cover too. (I made this mistake).

I've got the same promariner on my 3 battery bank for my 36v XI5. It worked great for 2 years and then on bank / charge circuit flaked out. I proved it wasn't the battery and Promariner sent me replacement for free.


Nice job!
 

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Well, a couple months back I purchased a new boat that was sitting at a dealer in WI. Couple weeks ago I went over to pick it up, and I've been getting her set up for fishing. This weekend I went through the engine break in then fished South Haven and managed a couple fish in the cloudy water.

The boat is a Crestliner Commander 1850 with a 115 Merc Pro XS. I added a battery switch but still need to add a small fuse block in one of the stern compartments to eliminate a few inline fused wires that are currently going to the battery switch. That will clean up the connections to the cranking battery and switch.

Boat was prewired for a bow mount trolling motor. I added a Minn Kota 80# 72" 24V Terrova with iPilot on a MKA-32 quick release bracket, batteries, and a ProMariner 20A 3 bank charger. For now it is connected to just the two trolling motor batteries, but the third bank leads will eventually get connected to the cranking or a house battery. Although the charger is fairly "smart", apparently it's not smart enough to charge two batteries if one set of leads is not connected to a battery. So after some initial frustration resorted to taking a closer look at the manual, I realized I needed to connect the third bank to one of the two batteries until I get around to running wires to a third battery. Now it charges fine. Using the main motor for thrust and the Terrova for steering (most of the time set on 3), I trolled 12 hours on one charge and the batteries were still at 75% according to the motor battery monitor, or 50% according to the charger. iPilot is a game changer for sure.

I added a Garmin 93 SV UHD on a RAM swing arm mount, which mounted nicely on the flat top of the console. This mount is extremely robust. I can swing the screen to the corner of the windshield, or above the steering wheel, and I can swivel the head to watch it through the windshield when fishing from the bow. Only complaint is that the water temperature was varying widely (35-50 every couple of seconds), but I realized that I forgot to add the ferrite or iron noise reduction coil (supplied by Garmin) to the transducer cable, so I am hoping that will resolve the temperature reading issue.


For fishing gear, on each side I mounted a 36" Bert's track to a pair of the Crestliner Suremount downrigger brackets that attach to the built in Suremount track. On each track I have a Big Jon downrigger on a Bert's swivel base, a Bert's rod holder for a dipsy rod, then a rod tree from Superior Fishing Products. I looked at a few different rod trees and I was close to purchasing from rodtrees (dot) com when I stumbled across Superior Fishing Products. Right now, they are only selling rod trees but are working on some ratcheting rod holders. I hear they are currently waiting on materials but I would say they are worth the wait. I'm really happy with the trees and highly recommend them.




Very nice!!!
 

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Crawfish - That is one bad rig! Congrats! I'd love to see some exterior hull shots.

For the fuse panel, I highly recommend the Blue Seas Blade 6 circuit panel with the integrated negative bus. I forget the part number, but if you buy off amazon, make sure you are getting the PN that includes the cover. They sell it without the cover too. (I made this mistake).

I've got the same promariner on my 3 battery bank for my 36v XI5. It worked great for 2 years and then on bank / charge circuit flaked out. I proved it wasn't the battery and Promariner sent me replacement for free.


Nice job!
Thanks, I ordered that exact same fuse block! Should be here soon.

Forgot to add that I knew the boat would be a tight fit into my garage. When I got home, it had about 1.5" of clearance from the fenders on each side, but the windshield would not clear the door with the tongue all the way down until I let some air out of the tires. I also struggled with simultaneously getting the trailer lined up while pushing it uphill into the garage. I added a Trailer Valet 5X last week and it gives me a little more clearance, and includes a hand crank (with optional adapter for cordless drill) for driving the trailer uphill, and tiller steer handle with an automatic brake. Pretty slick unit that solved a few issues for me. Now I can get in the garage with 1" of clearance at the top.


 

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A couple of updates:

  • new o-rings and battery pack in the Fish Hawk probe
  • bilge pump works
  • live well aerator works
  • new bilge plug

I think I have decided to buy a new VHF radio. Upon detailed inspection, it looks like one of the mic wires broke at the PCB solder joint. Resoldering the small joint seems like risky business. I haven’t found replacement mics for sale online. Then the question is why am I trying to keep a 25 year old radio alive? Even if the mic isn’t the root cause of my issues, I’m thinking to go for a new radio and new antenna if that turns out to be the case.
 
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