Oh man, you're going to love the Zillion. Made in Japan, insanely smooth, and a true free floating spool that's only held in place by the bearings. They're so cheap right now due to the exchange rate. If you were to buy a US version from a shop on this side of the world you'd pay about $350 to $400 depending on where you got it. The Tatula is a nice reel, but it will never be like a Zillion. The Zillion is in an entirely different league. The only thing better is the Steez, which it shares some parts with I might add.
Exchange rate plus reels being made in Japan has me spoiled. Most my recent purchases have Been direct from Japan, not only getting better build quality, but cheaper price compared to the stuff in the US market.
do they make that reel in a flipping switch version? what is the lightest most expensive one out there now?
I use both the Daiwa Coastal sv tw 150 and the Daiwa Fuego CT for float fishing for steelhead. This season it has been 50/50 when using my bait casters or my Daiwa SS tournament 1300 spinning reel. I am able to cast 1/32 oz. jigs using an Addicted Mustad weighted float, a small inline sinker, and 1 or two split shots above my leader using the Daiwa coastal. I use 12 lb. solar green Big Game line, which floats really well. My question is what type of floats do you normally use? and what type of weights do you use, when float fishing? I am relatively new to using a bait caster for float fishing, but I seem to have much better line control, especially on longer drifts. My spinning reel is great for shorter drifts and when I fish smaller feeder creeks. I am just wondering if I am using a float that is too heavy, when using my baitcaster that might spook the steelhead? I have learned so much from this forum. Thank You!
Typically, I use a fixed float in the 8g to 11g size rating on smaller rivers. The Addicted floats are really nice for jigs, since they are weighted themselves, it makes it easy for casting, and pretty simple setup to run. The Jig themselves have weight to them so no split shots needed. Here in Michigan, we are allowed to run spawn bags so that's what we use majority of the time(The addicted guys run worm jigs and beads cause that's what they are limited to, no spawn bags allowed for steel).
Having a fixed float gives you the option to stack your weights in different ways. With a weighted float and a couple small split shots, it's hard to control the depth which your bait is at and is most likely running higher in the water column. This means it's possible you're not getting into the meat of the hole.
I generally run a 16-20lb mainline to a 2ft long leader(8-12lb). all along the main line from the float down to the leader I have split shorts to drag the bait down to the bottom of the hole. I run usually 1 or 2 BB weights on my leader line to my hook (picture below does not show the BB weight on the leader). Thats really only to prevent the bait from lifting up from the current of the water.
View attachment 880142
Thanks for the advice and diagram! I live in Ohio, so I mainly use jigs and spawn sacks and beads. I have been using the Great Lakes Steelhead company, deep series 8mm. beads, which are equal to a 3/0 split shot on my leader which helps get the bait/jig in the strike zone faster. I am going to try your suggestions to see if it will increase my catch rate. Have you ever tried using in-line weights.
Just curious, what brand of floats do you use when using your baitcaster? Thanks for the tips!
Oh man, I gotta stop reading this stuff or I will be buying one of those reels. I have to say I still don't understand the concept of a weighted float.
Typically, I use a fixed float in the 8g to 11g size rating on smaller rivers. The Addicted floats are really nice for jigs, since they are weighted themselves, it makes it easy for casting, and pretty simple setup to run. The Jig themselves have weight to them so no split shots needed. Here in Michigan, we are allowed to run spawn bags so that's what we use majority of the time(The addicted guys run worm jigs and beads cause that's what they are limited to, no spawn bags allowed for steel).
Having a fixed float gives you the option to stack your weights in different ways. With a weighted float and a couple small split shots, it's hard to control the depth which your bait is at and is most likely running higher in the water column. This means it's possible you're not getting into the meat of the hole.
I generally run a 16-20lb mainline to a 2ft long leader(8-12lb). all along the main line from the float down to the leader I have split shorts to drag the bait down to the bottom of the hole. I run usually 1 or 2 BB weights on my leader line to my hook (picture below does not show the BB weight on the leader). Thats really only to prevent the bait from lifting up from the current of the water.
View attachment 880142
I'll use inline weights on bigger river systems when it allows for it. Lot of charters run inline weights. It's a lot simpler to manage. For smaller systems i think the shot patterns are a bit nicer.
Thanks for your help! I"m guessing you use Raven fixed floats the majority of time?I'll use inline weights on bigger river systems when it allows for it. Lot of charters run inline weights. It's a lot simpler to manage. For smaller systems i think the shot patterns are a bit nicer.
Thanks for your help! I"m guessing you use Raven fixed floats the majority of time?
Ravens and blood run. Sometimes bloodrun has a 3 for 1 deal so i stock up then. fixed floats are getting stupid expensive. I usually just buy them in bulk off ebay.
Been thinking about making some for myself.