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I have 2 maple tree's that I planted as just 12 inch babies, and they both will be very nice shade tree's if they ever get big enough. My problem with one of them is:
Stunted growth compared to the twin 25 feet away. One tree has taken off and appears to be growing very well. The other is much smaller, and as summer progresses the leaves are turning dark brown on the edges, and this is more evident on the branch ends and towards the top of the tree. The lush green color of the leave that starts every spring , leaves and the healthy shade of green changes to a dull ugly look of almost yellowing, with the leave veins showing a lighter color than normal Eventually all the leaves will have this symptom by fall. In the spring it looks fine, but it progresses as the summer continues. And this has happened several years in a row now.
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The tree that is doing good is 30 feet tall, the tree that is not, is about 12 feet tall, and both were planted at the same time and were the same size.
Thanks for any help
 

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Was one planted in poorer soil? Sounds like the stunted one is lacking in a few nutrients. Iron might be one of them.

Try healthy dose of fertilizer and water for a couple of years and see what it does.

Doesn't sound like any insects.

PM Treeman, he's an arborist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Was one planted in poorer soil? Sounds like the stunted one is lacking in a few nutrients. Iron might be one of them.

Try healthy dose of fertilizer and water for a couple of years and see what it does.

Doesn't sound like any insects.

PM Treeman, he's an arborist.

Mike both tree's are in the back yard, they are 25 feet apart, and the soil is very hard with clay being the main type. I have broken shovels trying to dig and it can be tough for some types of growing. That said, the sister tree is flourishing. I will use your advice and see if I can get jr. back on track. And I agree I dont see any insect damage, I think it's something else.
Thanks
Dan
 

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I assume both trees were planted the same way (burlap off or on).

I did talk to treeman, said to make sure no roots are wrapping around the sick ones trunk below ground level.. I had 2 maples die (20 years old) because of this.
 

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Nobody has asked if they are the same type of Maple. There are Red Maple, Silver Maple, Sugar Maple. Sugar Maple may not do so well without having some type of shade and/or very good soil. "Reds" seem to be able to thrive about anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nobody has asked if they are the same type of Maple. There are Red Maple, Silver Maple, Sugar Maple. Sugar Maple may not do so well without having some type of shade and/or very good soil. "Reds" seem to be able to thrive about anywhere.
The tree's were 12 inch babies which I just pulled out of the woods 10 years ago and stuck em in the ground here, I will bet they are the same type based on color, spring, summer and fall, as well as pulling them out of the woods at the same location. I think Mike may have had it right, the soil really is crappy, even though I gave both plenty of new top soil around the base when I planted them.
I'll do some shallow digging around the base to see about other roots, but based on location, the one doing well, is much closer to other tree's, this one is kind of by it's self. I will get some tree ferts and give it some love.
I have no idea what kind these are, I know they do not have red leaves during summer. My guess is the most common type here in Mi.
 

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The tree's were 12 inch babies which I just pulled out of the woods 10 years ago and stuck em in the ground here, I will bet they are the same type based on color, spring, summer and fall, as well as pulling them out of the woods at the same location. I think Mike may have had it right, the soil really is crappy, even though I gave both plenty of new top soil around the base when I planted them.
I'll do some shallow digging around the base to see about other roots, but based on location, the one doing well, is much closer to other tree's, this one is kind of by it's self. I will get some tree ferts and give it some love.
I have no idea what kind these are, I know they do not have red leaves during summer. My guess is the most common type here in Mi.
Can you take a pic of each trees leaves?

Bet they are silver maple.

Actually red maples leaves are not red in the summer. Your thinking crimson maples. Also there is a maple called black maple. Nothing to do with the color of leaves.
 

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Greenie,

Try adding about five (5) hands full of Epson Salts to the area along with the other Fertilizer you choose. I think you may have a root cutting off problem like Mike said! He is old and smart so pay attention.

Put a handful of Epson Salts on your Roses every week to ten days or anything else that needs a little boost. To test it, sprinkle a little in your lawn where you will remember and the next time you mow it will be taller and greener that the rest of your lawn. Try it, you will like it!

O'lame Fred
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies guys, I will do as directed. These maples are green leaves in the summer then they turn a light brilliant gold color in the fall. Mind you I'm color blind a bit so maybe those pictures Mike mentioned are in order. Being a sales guy in IT you would think I have good PC skills but I don't!! Let's see if I can load pictures- LOL.

Thanks again guys.
 

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Have you considered having a company come out and inject the fertilizer in the ground? Not only does this method get the fertilizer ringht in the root system but it also opens up the soil to help it breath. If your ground is that hard there this may help you but PRO would know best. I have seen it done and it is pretty interesting.

sorry spell/grammer t police. the hospital keyboard will not let me fix my errors. lol.
 

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About half of the Maple's like plenty of water, silvers grow in swamps with water covering the roots Fall, Winter, Spring.

My buddy has a silver that is breaking off at ground level. Same thing, between two other maples, and suddenly this one is leaning 30* or more.
Must be 10" trunk, just suddenly "seems broken/rotted" at the ground line.
 

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I have a maple that now has brown blotches and edges of the leaves and there is some leaf drop. I'm not sure if it is a red or silver. It has smooth gray bark and it is 10 years old from seed(about 25 ft tall). It was nice and green this spring and as summer progressed, the lower leaves curled up and have dark blotches all over them. What is wrong with it? It is well established.
 

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I have a maple that now has brown blotches and edges of the leaves and there is some leaf drop. I'm not sure if it is a red or silver. It has smooth gray bark and it is 10 years old from seed(about 25 ft tall). It was nice and green this spring and as summer progressed, the lower leaves curled up and have dark blotches all over them. What is wrong with it? It is well established.
Black blotches are a fungus which is quite common. Will not kill the tree.
 

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The Silver in my above post, was repeatedly and continually hit with a weed wacker. Since originally planted, the healing injury got rotton or something.
He learned a lesson, the new tree has landscape bark around it so he wont be "attempting to cut too close to the tree".
Now he is wondering about the other trees in the yard....
 

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I have a maple that now has brown blotches and edges of the leaves and there is some leaf drop. I'm not sure if it is a red or silver. It has smooth gray bark and it is 10 years old from seed(about 25 ft tall). It was nice and green this spring and as summer progressed, the lower leaves curled up and have dark blotches all over them. What is wrong with it? It is well established.

To be sure you're not mistaking two different things: Circular dark or black spots or blotches on the leaf could be a fungus called anthracnose, or tar spot, which as Walleye Mike stated, it will not kill the tree but could cause some stress. What I think you may be seeing is browning along the fringes of the leaves, causing them to curl and drop early. This can be a sign of a few things coming together. The tree could need more water due to hot, windy conditions. The leaves dry out along the edges first, causing the symptoms you are seeing. The other possibility would be a bacterial infection. If you look closely at the fringe of the leaf, you may see brown on the outside edge, then a thin band of yellow between the dead portion and live portion. This could be more serious and actually threaten the tree's well being.
 

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Do you have a septic field? I wonder if the tree that is flourishing is planted closer to your field getting more nutrients and water.
 

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Looks like you have received lots of excellent suggestions already.
The girdling root possibility is the first thing to investigate. There should be a "flare" or quick increase in diameter as the tree trunk meets the soil level. If there is no flare, a flat spot, or even a constriction then there may be a girdling root. Gently remove soil from around the base of the tree until you clearly see the roots begin to radiate out from the trunk.
The species of tree must be identified as some have already suggested. Some species of maple tolerate certain soils, some don't. One thing you might want to do is send in a couple of soil samples to the Michigan State Extension. The soil may be radically different between the two sites. My back yard is predominantly clay backfill from our pond; my front yard is topsoil and loamy sand. The soil test will show if there is a difference. It may also show a possible pH problem as well.

Some red maples become yellow if the soil pH is too high for their liking. It seems to get worse as the trees get larger to the point that the leaf margins get a scorched, dry brown look. If it is a pH problem I would consider starting from scratch with a tree that tolerates that pH. It can be corrected, but becomes more costly and difficult as the tree gets larger.

I would also recommend you install a large diameter mulch ring. The idea is to try to replicate a forest floor environment trees love. The grass free zone reduces competition, attenuates soil temperature and moisture extremes, and easily allows granular fertilizer or possibly elemental sulphur to be broadcast over the root zone.
Good luck!
 
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