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Discussion in 'Tackle Talk' started by Zkovach1175, Dec 26, 2019.
Duo locks snaps. No need for a swivel with crankbaits
Thanks guys for the responses, another question however...
I’ve never ran a barrel swivel on cranks. For what purpose? (Besides weeds sliding down the line) I do feel we will hit some spots where the cranks will be hitting the bottom. I’m guessing they could roll over?
I don’t see a reason to run one unless you are using a different type of line for leader material and you do t want to tie a double uni knot. If you are picking up weeds a small split shot 5’ up the line will stop most of it.
Interested to hear others reasoning
If you only run well tuned cranks, you don’t need a swivel. If you get a badly out of tune crank and you run it oblivious to the issue, your line will be trashed. Plus if you have a swivel, you’ll feel free to play with things like inline spinners or spoons every now and then when the crank bite ain’t happening.
For the snap, chose one without the ends of the wiring terminating in protrusions that will hook weeds. There’s enough hooks on the lures already, so you don’t need to make them worse. You’ll probably be more productive up there contour trolling break lines and weed edges, or over weed beds opposed to the big lake open water program.
I did buy a crank bait tuner for last year but all my crank seemed to run true. I only tested them at the side of the boats. A poster above suggested running it 8-10’ back. Makes sense.
We will also be up there in May so I don’t think the weeds will be up at that point
There are a couple reasons to run a barrel swivel. There are quire a few crankbaits that are speed limited. As soon as you get them over speed, even just doing S turns. The baits will spin out. The smaller reef runners are very sensitive to speed. Some baits have just an eyelet, some a snap ring. Some require a "loop" knot not tightened down. They are not all the same.
Also, if you have a full set of crankbaits out. You really should have another bait option. Like a spoon. Or a harness.
And if you are using jets or weights/bottom bouncers to get some of your baits down. You will want to have a barrel on your main line. Much faster to swap from presentation to presentation.
Do what you like. I fished tourney's for yrs.
For trolling, never found a barrel to be a bad thing. Also if you are fishing with newbs. A bead above the barrel stops folks from cranking the barrel thru your eyelets. And is a good visual indicator of how close the fish is to be netted.
Yeah I guess a swivel could never hurt. I am going with some guys that are more of hunters than fisherman so good call on the bead! I appreciate it.
Not sure if I’m gonna run boards yet but wanna start with cranks off the sides and a bottom bouncer off the back. We are mostly gonna be between 8-15 FOW so was thinking 1.5 OZ on the bottom bouncer. Sound about right?
Tye a barrel 12 to 15 inches above your snap. I used colored beads. Yellow one side, red other side. Much easier to instruct other folks on board of what rods go on what side. Due to set ups.
Well, on bouncer weight. It depends on how far out back you want your baits. Some times you want them far back. Like when running boards.
Sometimes you would run heavier weights. Wanting them almost down straight. Like if your doing alot of S turns. And/or running cranks off the side. Closer to the transom takes most of the possible tangle problems away.
Also when running multiple bouncers off/over the sides. 4,6 or 8oz weights depending on depth. Would be the most forward rods. At the consoles. Then middle rods use 2oz less weight 2,4 oz weights. Then next inline rods use 1 or 1.5 oz weights. Then .5 or 1.5oz weights off the rear if you have enough folks for 8 rods. No tangles.
If that makes sense.
what's the water color of that lake? clear or stained brownish from cedar swamps?..most inland lakes the fish are used to smaller baits than the fish in big waters like erie...every lake is different and will have a "certain" bait that is preferred...that's what you have to figure out...for an example Houghton lake in the lower has a brownish tint to it...fishing in the depths you describe the best bait that worked for me was trolling a #5 or 7 rapala minnow rap...I ran the lures back 25-35 ft with no board just longlineing...with the dark water color the short leads the fish didn't get spooked by the motor noise...best depth was 7 ft...another thing that worked in spring was a 1/8-1/4 oz. black beetle spin...find shallow areas that are 3-7 ft. deep and that in the summer are so thick with weeds you can't get through...in the spring those areas will have a thick dead mat on the bottom before the weeds start to grow...cast the beetle spin down wind and let it hit bottom then hop it back to the boat...on Houghton I caught walleye pike and big crappie in there...best depth was 5 ft.
I have 400 crankbait models that have not worked well; but below are the 40+ that I have caught walleye on and I take them on most trips. I predominately cast or long line troll depths of 6' to 18'. There are lots of other choices for water less than 6' or deeper than 18'; and others will have favorites that aren't listed. I started my collection in the 1960's and it's an addiction.
BAGLEY Rumble B 11, Bang-O-Lure
BERKLEY Flicker Shad, Frenzy Minnow, Flicker Minnow
BPS Lazer Eye Minnow, Wobble Jack
BUCHERTAIL Baby Shallow Raider
CORDELL Shallow Wally Diver, Wally Diver,
Wally Minnow, Deep Red Fin, Deep Minnow
LINDY River Rocker, Shadling, Baitfish, Rally Fish
LUHR JENSEN Shallow Power Minnow, Power Dive Minnow
NORMAN 3JD Minnow
PRADCO Lazy Ike
RAPALA Scatter Minnow, J-13, Shallow Tail Dancer,
Scatter Husky Jerk, Shad Rap, Minnow Rap,
Deep Tail Dancer, Deep Husky Jerk,
REBEL Fastrac, Spoonbill
REEF RUNNER 500 Little Rip Stick, 600 Little Ripper
SALMO Hornet, Whitefish, Minnow
SLAMMER 6” Shallow Minnow
SMITHWICK Deep Rogue
SUICK Baby Cisco Kid 200
YAKIMA Mag Lip 3.5