Salmon/Stealhead Spinning Rods Under $100

Discussion in 'Tackle Talk' started by Michigander84, Aug 31, 2010.

  1. Steelmon

    Steelmon

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    Avoid Gander Mt. Rods. I had a 10 ft IM7 Guide Series and it broke while trying to get a snag out. 1 of 2 other guys I know of had his break too. When I took my rod back the cashier told me not to buy them anymore. Her husband bought 2 and they both broke. She said they have a very high return rate. Some guys said she should have been fired. As a customer, I appreciate the honesty. They use cheap inconsistent graphite. You may grab one that is fine, while the one next to it is bad. I had a 10 ft. Shimano Convergence and it broke on a snag too. On the other hand, I have a 6 ft. Convergence Ultralight that has taken some heavy stress and held right up. The only time you should worry about your rod breaking, as long as it is used within it's rating, is if you bring it back over your head or more than 90 degrees or if you bang it around on stuff.

    IMO you are better off sqeezing out the extra bucks for a rod that will serve you, trouble free, for many years and not ruin a trip. ST. Croix Wild Rivers are less than $150.00, and are tough and sensitive.
     
  2. Carpmaster

    Carpmaster

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    The BEST rod I have found for BOTH salmon and steelhead for EVERY tactic is the 10' Cabelas Fish Eagle II Medium (8-15#) ...
     

  3. Eyefull

    Eyefull

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    Steelmon hit the nail on the head. Most broken rods are a result of what is called high sticking. Rods used within their pound ratings rarely fail under normal fighting scenerios. Lots of rods meet their maker when they are put in a rod holder and the fishermen grabs the line and pulls straight down to attach a lure:yikes:. The blanks are not designed for that type of stress. Same as fighting past 90 degrees overhead or high sticking, (holding the rod in left hand behind your back while netting a fish with right hand achieves this perfectly and sends me lots of broken high end steelhead rods to fix):lol:. Trying to rip a snag from a sunken log with fireline may be a little more strain than the manufacturer intended and often at a seriously wicked angle of pull along with a thumbed spool???:rant:

    The second most common breaks result from damage occured unintentionally. Smack a tree limb with your back cast, then three fish later the blank lets go. Todays high modulus graphite rods are super strong and super sensitive, but whack them on anything and it will break sooner or later as the tiny microfibers have been damaged. Even mid range rods built now are much better performing and resiliant than the higher end rods we fished with even 5 years ago. But having said that, OEM's will sometimes buy up overseas factory seconds blanks to use in their lower end rod series to meet price points, buyer beware. These will often end up in "wholesale" stores or clearanced items in retail stores.

    I would recommend buying a decent mid range rod ($50-70). Stay away from the low end models, don't use them as dock hooks, and you will be fine. Don't worry about having the latest and greatest super high modulus graphite rod, 95% of fishermen can't tell the difference between IM5 and IM8 while fishing. On the other hand, to fit in among the elite stream fishermen, it should say Sage, St. Croix, GLoomis, or Lamiglas if you want to be taken seriously. I can mail you a decal if you need it:lol:. Just kidding around guys, lots of decent rods out there.
     
  4. Robert Holmes

    Robert Holmes

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    Lets see you load the reel with 20 pound test line for salmon fishing, Now you go out to the river and get snagged up now you are reefing on the rod and it breaks. I have seen this happen a thousand times. I have bought expensive rods and cheap rods for salmon and steelhead. I very very seldom break one, and if I do it is usually something that I have done wrong. #1 rule is most rods have a line weight recommendation on it. If the rod says 6 -12 pound test line recommended. Always stay 4 pound test under the recommendation. Do not reef on snags or fish or breaking the rod is your fault. Do not use braided or wire lines with steelhead rods or you are asking for trouble. I used to have a St. Croix 10 foot steelhead rod that I probably caught over 2000 trout and salmon on and it held up through years of fishing.
     
  5. Carpmaster

    Carpmaster

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    I will show you a couple with 30# PP on them.... :)
     
  6. RippinLipp

    RippinLipp

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    I use Ganders Guide series 9" steelhead rods. 1 light that Ive had for close to 8 years thats brought anything to the net. And a medium thats about 4 years old.. Never had a problem with them.. For salmon I load up with 10lb maxium and Steelhead I use 8. I think you can still get the rods for around $50..
     
  7. brookies101

    brookies101

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    They are good rods. I found mine for $30 at the gander here in saginaw. Havent had a single problem with mine. Only gripe i have is how the bottom section of the cork is like 5 inches long, then the reel, then like another foot of cork. I would much rather have that foot of cork at the bottom of the rod, it can get really uncomfortable casting for hours on end with it. But it has done its job none-the-less
     
  8. Michigander84

    Michigander84

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    Good to know. I've good luck with other Gander Mountain products.
     
  9. xwoodyx41

    xwoodyx41

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    Its not the rod ,its how you handle your rod:)
     
  10. Steelmon

    Steelmon

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    Considering that I've been stream fishing for 40 years, I'm going to go with it being the rods. I used to have a Browning Rod that was about $60.00 and it held up for a couple seasons, until it was stolen. I used a Steelhead Rod w/8lb test for 20 lb Florida Redfish. They will burn your drag up, but I had no problems with the rod. I love catching big fish on light tackle and I major in it. This spring I hooked a 20 lb carp on a 6 ft St. Croix rated 4-8 lbs and spooled with 6 lb T-line. It took me 20 mintues to wear him out and at times the rod was bent to the max. but it held up. If I'm doing something wrong, why aren't my St. Croix and other quality rods breaking? BTW, I know other guys that have had their Ganders break too.

    Remember, a Gander Mt. Employee told me not to buy them. Like I said, you might get a good one, while the guy next to you gets a bad one.

    I like Shimano Products. I have several of thier rods and reels. I was suprised when my Convergence broke.

    If you want a rod with a longer front grip and shorter rear grip [Michigan Handle] the 9 Ft. St Croix Wild River Light Action about the only one left. The Shimano Convergence does have a great ergonomic handle too. I will give it that. Most companies are only making the Western [short front grip] handle these days. I don't know why. Noodle Rod users aren't exactly famous for using rod holders. Long rear handles are a pain [IMO].
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  11. diztortion

    diztortion

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    Long handles are a pain. My wrist can handle the stress.. ;)
     
  12. brookies101

    brookies101

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    I still use my GM rod when bouncing or bobber fishing, but when casting cranks or spoons, my 10' convergence just feels better, and you can cast your lures farther. The rod just seems to load up better and whip the lure a good distance. JMO, everybody has their own. Point being, i'm sure some GM equipment ends up being junk, theres a chance your going to pick up a dud no matter which brand you choose. But 4 years of wear and tear and mine is still "doin work". All i'm saying
     
  13. sfw1960

    sfw1960 Staff Member Super Mod Mods

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    That's a helluva rod Carp - even though I am a Shimano/Daiwa kinda bastard....;)
    I have a buddy that uses the EXACT same rod with a Daiwa 27L/C & 20# P Pro , pulls boards , F18's & whatever else he wants.
    FEAR NO FISH.
    :fish2:
    Kings are over rated...
    :lol:
    When I rear back on my favorite Clarus rods - I don't usually think about the lifetime warranty or if the blank will fail , it's if the 20# F/C leader will snap or the hooks are going to straighten or split rings pull out.....

    :evilsmile

    RAS
     
  14. steely74

    steely74

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    If I have not said it enough on this site I love the convergence series.

    I have put my pin on the 10 footer for tighter situations. The long foregrip makes it comfortable. Just be careful if using light leaders on that rod.

    Good rods under 100$

    Shimano convergence (already beat to death)

    shimano clarus

    Shimano scimitar

    Browning six rivers (huge line of rods)

    Daiwa firewolf (got me my biggest king ever!)

    [email protected] Swan noodle if you can find'em

    Ugly stick rods

    even eagle claw makes a good 8'6" rod that is not yellow. granger? may be the name.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2010
  15. Steelmon

    Steelmon

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    Hey, buy what you want and I certainly hope your rod works well for you. Just be informed that a GM IM7 blank is not the same as a quality builders IM7 blank. It's not and industry standard. Better blanks have better feel too. With my hardware rod I can feel every thump of a #3 Mepps. If it's interupted, I know. Missed hits alone are a good reason to shell out some extra bucks, if you can. You really can't know if your feeling everything unless you know you have the best blank and reel seat you can afford, then it's just a matter of trust. No one can really say "I feel everything".

    The reason a Shimano Covergence load and casts better than a Gander Mt. is the action. The GM is a slow action, while the Shimano is a medium fast action, which I really like. Less of the rod bends when loading up and springs back faster. I've got 2 med-fast St. Croix Steelie Rods and they can whip a light bait a long way with little effort.

    Here's a little light reading for information purposes:
    http://flyanglersonline.com/begin/graphite/part2.php
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2010