A wind powered jigging tip-up. Designed and built by ih772 3-3-2012 This is an idea I've had in the back of my mind for a while now, a wind powered jigging tip-up, aka, windlass tip-up. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I started with the old classic crossed arms tip-up, modified it, and turned in into a jigging tip-up. I know there are other designs out there, but I wanted to make one that was my own. This design is primarily for Walleye, Crappie and Perch. Use braided line as backing and wind a few layers of mono on top, being careful not to over fill the reel. The mono will resist freezing should the line get wet. The current design can handle up to a ¼ ounce jig and Walleye minnow. If someone wanted to use heavier tackle and minnow, the weight of the egg sinker counter balance would need to be increased. This is my take on a wind powered jigging tip-up. I'm sure other types of tip-ups could be modified as well. Be sure to read the construction tips before getting started. Have fun and tight lines! Before: After: Materials: 1 Cross arm style tip-up. 1 12 length of 3/8 square dowel. 1 5 x 5 corrugated plastic sheet. 1 eye screw. (Screws into 3/8 square dowel) 1 4-40 machine screw 1 long. 1 3/16 OD nylon spacer 1/2 long. (Make sure 4-40 screw fits inside) 1 ½ oz. Egg sinker. 1 small cable tie. (Must fit inside egg sinker) 1 - #6 sheet metal screw. Construction Tips: Triple check the 'flag release' wire is oriented correctly before bending the new offset. Be sure the wire is inside the plastic tubing before making the first bend. Refer to the pictures. Make sure you have copied the old offset a closely as possible. When finding the reel location, be sure the flag end of the release wire is seated against the plastic sleeve. Leave the cold temperature grease on the release wire and inside the plastic sleeve. Make sure the nylon bushing ends are smooth and so are the surfaces it will rub against. Take your time finding the exact balance point of the jigging arm. You may need to increase or decrease the size of the egg sinker depending on the weight of the tackle and bait that you normally use. Drill the appropriate size pilot holes for all screws, especially the pivot screw. The pivot screw will thread into the tip-up. Use a machine screw for the pivot point, don't use wood or sheet metal screws. When the jigging arm is pointed straight down, make sure the eye screw in the end is below the center of the reel. If not, the fish will feel extra resistance when pulling the line off the reel. The first step is to remove the reel. The next step is to move the flag release wire and re-size it. Cut off the end of the release wire that goes into the reel. Make your cut just above the offset. Remove the release wire from the plastic sleeve. Measure and cut the plastic sleeve to 4 ½ inches. Throw away the remaining piece, it will not be used. Re-insert the release wire into the plastic sleeve. Don't remove the low temperature grease. Now the offset bend needs to be put back into the release wire. Use the offset you cut off earlier as a pattern for the new one. Take your time doing the bends and make any necessary tweaks to get it to match the original one. Make sure you pay attention to the end of the wire that holds the flag and be sure to make your offset bends correctly or else it won't release the flag properly. Its vital to get this right as its one of the most important parts of the project. Lay the old offset on top of the wire and make a mark at the start of the second bend. The start of the second bend is the end closest to plastic tubing. Using needle nose pliers, make the second bend.