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Broad head opinion

Discussion in 'Michigan Whitetail Deer Hunting' started by bmoffit, Oct 11, 2017.

  1. agbuckhunter

    agbuckhunter

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    I started out 28 years ago bowhunting with a 40 lb Darton bow and the arrow was tipped with a Thunderhead 100. Shot those broadheads for 20 years before finally switching over to mechanicals. The Thunderheads were proven very effective over that time period.
     
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  2. wildthing

    wildthing

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    We will definitely look you up if we get there next year John. It is always a great show....and that is a beautiful buck you shot in Illinois. Hope I see one like that next week.
     

  3. Joe Archer

    Joe Archer Staff Member Mods

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    Yep! With low poundage bows there really isn't the need to shoot anything other than fixed blades. As others have stated and proven, a pass through with an expandable blade is very unlikely in your wife's situation. Always aim for the exit and stay between the liver and shoulder, and you will recover your deer in short time ... if you don't see them fall.
    I purposely use heavier aluminum arrows to slow my bow down enough to still be able to use fixed blade Thunderhead 100's. They fly like my field points out to 50 yards, and the combination probably maintains enough KE at that distance to take down an elk. For deer, I would never shoot over 30 yards, and all my kills to date have been 20 or less.
    <----<<<
     
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  4. Slimits

    Slimits

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    Thunderheads and many fixed blades wont fly great at high speeds. Ran into that problem with my bow. Even though it was paper tuned the fixed blades were all over the place
     
  5. wildthing

    wildthing

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    Keep in mind Sliimits, that paper tuning is only a starting point and that broad heads will magnify any imperfections in tuning... Arrow velocity has little, or nothing to do with it - it is bow and arrow tuning that corrects arrow flight.
     
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  6. J Eberhart

    J Eberhart

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    Look forward to seeing you
     
  7. Slimits

    Slimits

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    What else do you recommend?
     
  8. Justin

    Justin

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    Shooting feathers helps a lot.
     
  9. jafurnier

    jafurnier

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    I'd be more concerned about the arrow speed. I'm going to buy a Maverick II shortly...45 lbs. Setup will shoot FASTER than the Hoyt Carbon Element I am giving up at 70 lbs. The Maverick will penetrate just as well. Math says same kinetic energy.
     
  10. Sharkbait11

    Sharkbait11

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    Nothing wrong with mechanicals just dont use them as a crutch because its the only option and maybe cant setup your bow properly (youtube/reading books are great tools ). If your not setup properly and dialed in you shouldn't be using mechanicals to avoid the problem with your bow.

    You loose KE if your arrow isnt shooting straight whether it hits the bullseye with a field point/mechanical. If its not fixed broadhead tuned I would not use it to hunt...just my opinion.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2017
  11. U of M Fan

    U of M Fan

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    I like to modify French tune my bows. Also check your form, any imperfections become more noticeable.
     
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  12. onebad800

    onebad800

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    i agree with the few comments on the added weight to gain more KE, did this myself and to my sons setups and much more accurate and more punch further out. helps for increasing pass thrus as well, but first your bow needs to be dialed in
     
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  13. wildthing

    wildthing

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    Walk-back tuning for sure. Once your bow is set up properly and you have paper tuned it, get your sights set at 20 yards. I then move back and shoot groups at 30, 40 and 50 yards and see if they are grouping the same as your 20 yard groups. If they do you are good to go, but more likely than not they will be grouping to the left or right of your 20 yard groups.

    If this is the case, you will need to move your arrow rest (centershot) in the opposite direction. If your groups are to the left - move the arrow rest to the right and visa versa. A little bit goes a long way so don't get too radical. When your groups from 20-50 yards are all centered you are good to go.

    John Dudley just goes from 3 yards to 50 yards to adjust his centershot but he is a world class archer so it is easy for him. Here is an article he wrote which explains this in more detail:

    maximizing your hunting accuracy - walk back tuning ... - Nock On TV

    You also need to determine if your arrows are the right spine for your bow and draw weight. Should you be shooting a 340 or would a 400 maybe work better for your bow. You can determine this by shooting both arrows and measuring the groups. You can adjust your draw weight up or down a few pounds in either direction to fine-tune your arrows to your bow. You can try a 100 grain broadhead vs maybe a 125 grain, etc.

    Here are a couple more links to some of John Dudley's helpful articles/videos. He is an archery guru and a great coach so I like what he has to say.

    HIL Remastered - Nock On TV

    John Dudley teaches shows the results of picking the right arrow spine ...

    The bottom line is ... don't just settle for what your archery shop set up and paper tuned for you. You need to do some tuning on your own to see what really works best for your bow.

    As an example...I bought a new bow the year before last and thought I would have it set up at the archery shop with the arrow rest, sight, peep, etc, because I was busy doing other things at the time. When I got around to shooting the bow I saw that my QAD Ultrarest was actually mounted as low as it would go and the arrow launcher was actually hitting the shelf on the riser when it fired. When looking at it with an arrow nocked, you could see the berger button hole over the top of the arrow shaft when the bottom of the arrow shaft should actually be near the top of the berger button (rest mounting) hole.

    I tried to raise up the rest but the arrow capture part of the rest was hitting the bottom of the hinge guard and it couldn't be moved up any higher. I checked the package for my new Ultrarest and, sure enough, there was a spacer in the package that when installed allowed the rest to be moved far enough to the left to clear the hinge guard.

    I installed the spacer, moved the rest up, tied in new nocks sets and D-Loop and moved up the peep and I was good-to-go. Had I tried to tune the bow with it set up the way it came back from the pro shop I would have been eternally frustrated.

    Try some of these things and see if you can't get your bow shooting up to its potential.
     
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  14. bmoffit

    bmoffit

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    Thanks for the set up tips.. I'm pretty sure her bow is set up correctly and switching up broad heads will cure the lack of penetration. However it has been a few years since she's had the bow maybe a trip to Browns in Goodrich will benefit
     
  15. Jerre Peak

    Jerre Peak

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    My x-wife and I were big bowhunters and she had great luck for years with a 100 gr Thunderhead broadhead which is a fixed blade head. At one time she had the biggest buck taken in Ala. by a woman with bow and arrow. She shot all the way through him, through both lungs, and the arrow was sticking about 6" in the ground. Her bow weight was 45 lbs. I always shot the 125 gr Thunderhead. I believe in fixed blade heads.
     
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