Bead placement question...

Discussion in 'Center Pin Fishing' started by antlerhunter, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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    I am interested in trying some float fishing for Steelhead , I have searched past threads on this site , watched a lot of you-tube videos on rig set-ups, and all speak of pegging beads 1-1/2" to 3 inches above the hook. Then I read in the October 2017 issue of Woods & Water that pegging a bead on the tag end of a snelled hook is the way another productive way to go, plus the convenience of being able to change your bead without cutting and re-tying. I know , experimenting is the best technique,but would appreciate an explanation/technique of what works best for those that do float fish with beads. I would like to get some leaders tied up in advance. Thanks.
     
  2. jd4223

    jd4223

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    I would think you would lose the bead pegging it on the tag end? I normally peg my bead roughly 1inch above the hook. This pretty much guarantees a hook up when the fish bites. I have even let the bead rest on the top of the hook knot if I run out of pegs.
     

  3. mad9ua

    mad9ua

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    I think I also read the article you are referring to. I believe it was written by the famous spinner fisherman referenced recently in another thread (not sure how much bead fishing he does). I believe the purpose of pegging the bead 2.5 or so inches above the hook is to prevent the fish from taking the bead to deeply on the strike. However, I am not certain on the physics of how this works.

    I agree re-rigging beads can be a pain. Check out the slotted beads from Lazy Larry.
     
  4. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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    That's a good point in losing bead pegged below hook. Just trying to keep it simple starting out. Thanks.
     
  5. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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    I had to look the author up, Jim Bedford,and in the article he stated he is a lure tosser, and bead fishing is relatively new to him. Guess he got it figured out as he is pictured with a nice steelhead. I had to laugh when I read reference to Lazy Larry. Haven't checked those out yet,but I will. In my pursuit of figuring out how & what to use, I'm applying the K.I.S.S. rule,that's why I chuckled when I read Lazy Larry. We're on the same page there. Thanks for your suggestions.
     
  6. Trout King

    Trout King

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    Check out some articles by guys who actually bead fish for bead rigging ideas.

    Or dig up some old posts from here. Beads are all the rage right now.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2018
    AdamBradley likes this.
  7. Fishndude

    Fishndude

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    I can cut my leader, replace a bead, and tie the hook back on in about 90 seconds, and I am getting old. I can retie an entire bottom bouncing rig (3 knots, with a barrel swivel, sliding swivel, leader, hook, and weight in under 4 minutes. Tying knots is a big part of Steelhead fishing. Learning how to choose the right amount of weight for bottom bouncing will help you reduce the need to retie by quite a bit.

    I once tried pre-tying leaders, and it was much more if a PITA than it was worth.
     
  8. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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    Yes sir, I did check out old threads here on MSF, found a lot of good information.I read through the "How to Center Spin Stickey",bummer the pics don't come up,but lot's of information.Thank you for your suggestions.
     
  9. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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    Thanks for your response Fishindude. I have purchased a few , different size floats, will have to learn matching float size to current conditions. I thought pre- tying leaders may be a good idea, I can see your point, only one more knot to tie. Lazy Larry beads look convenient as suggested by mad9ua, but I have already purchased an assortment of P-line beads,so I'll do with what I have.I don't want to dump a boat load of money into this right now. The only major purchase I plan on is of the Penn Clash 2500, I can always use it for Walleye.
     
  10. jd4223

    jd4223

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  11. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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  12. vano397

    vano397

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    Peg up about 2-4". Retying hooks is part of the game. Still one knot just like tying on different color jig...
    The distance is important. Right on the hook, or too close, defeats the purpose and reduces hook percentage.
    The purpose is to not hook them deep, by keeping the hook on the outside, setting toward the inside of the mouth. Like having a hook on the end of a toddlers piece of spaghetti... or mine... this reduces fish mortality and makes releasing much quicker.
    The reason you dont want it close, is that hard beads pop open the jaw of the fish when it gets pulled thru the jaw. If the hook is right near the bead it wont set into anything before the bead opens their mouth. It will obviously be turned just right occasionally, but a few inches up is optimal.
     
  13. antlerhunter

    antlerhunter

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    Yes that sounds logical. I could see bead pegged too close to the hook would interfere with hook up. Thanks for the tip.
     
  14. slightofhand

    slightofhand

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    I pretie everything and exclusively use scented soft beads now for a couple reasons. One is no re tie. Slide bead off and slide bead on over the hook. Second soft beads come with and can be enhanced with scent. Third soft beads don’t get spit out like hard beads do. Steel can’t tell the difference imo between soft bead and real egg but they sure tell the difference on a hard plastic bead. And finally soft beads (some not all) sink at the exact same rate as a natural egg. All
    Hard plastic beads float and suck for that reason. Totally unnatural. Best soft buoyant neutral bead available today is death roe. There are other soft beads that don’t sink or partially sink. Test them in a glass of water. I have and death roe is exactly like a real actual egg
     
  15. wyandot

    wyandot

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    I'm not a big time bead fisherman, but some of the plastic beads I have float and some sink.