5x5 hunting blind: use 2x2 or 2x4 for framing?

built a couple of 6x6 blinds a few years back. after all the work etc I regret not making the 8×8. would have cost slightly more but the extra room would be nice if hunting with others. my neighbor has a large blind overlooking his massive wooded food plot. opening day he stomps in around 1 am, lies down takes a knap, wakes up 600 am and around 720 I usually hear the distinctive roar of his 300 win mag

I used 2x4 ( or whatever they are now shaved down) in the walls and 2×6 floor. save the headache, anything exterior get pressure treated.

 

With that being said pull up backpack, gun or any other gear with a rope.

 

You can and I have done that in the past. I will say it was and is much easier to use the rope for gun or bow. My point was the opening should not hinder the hunter from accessing the stand. If the OP can easily access it with all his hunting clothes not just jeans and a T shirt. Even though during bow season that maybe ones attire but he should plan on firearm muzzleloader and late archery season as well.

 

Never under build, 2X4's

 

Agreed!

 

I work with metal studs daily and they are loud ..
Thank you for giving me the benefit of the doubt...
If a person was to secure a 3-1/5" wide piece of half inch plywood to the side of the metal stud it would be quieter and still lighter.. It will also create more work time for the build .. A 2x4 wood bottom and top plate would make a huge difference in sound transfer and still be able to use vertical metal studs..If a person really wanted to get creative they could use spray on insulation along with the metal studs and really create a pretty nice ,yet light weight build !!

 

My most recent box blind is also a 5x5 with peaked roof & 6 inches of slope. I used 2x3's & 1/4 inch osb for walls. For me it is the perfect size for a one man blind. If I were building for 2 I would go with 5x6 or 6x6. I glued rubber roofing membrane on exterior for waterproofing. This box blind has survived 5 winters so far in the western U.P. and was not too heavy to handle the wall sections. Due to snow load, I went heavy on roof truss's & 1/2 in osb. for roof. Very solid.

 

I built two this summer with 2x3's that are 5 1/2' x 6', outside dimensions. 2x2's always seem to split on me (although the doors are 2x2's). It wasn't hard finding 2x3's straight but you need to use them quickly or they warp. Treated lumber this summer was a bear to find though for sure.

 

I’ve built 4x4 as well as 4x8 blinds & my 5x5 is the perfect size for me/another hunter.

My 5x5 blind has wolmanized 4x4 corner posts, 2x4 stud walls & roof joists.

Wolmanized plywood exterior walls, tarpaper under shingled simple pitched roof.

I used wolmanized 5/4round deck boards for the flooring covered with those commercial rubber backed doorway entry rugs instead of carpet.

No windows as I like as much visibility as possible.

Shooting rails are 8’

Electric heated car blanket for really cold days with power supplied by the single solar panel.

 

Where you buying the HDPE and foam. What size panels and do you have any issues with mice eating that foam. Thanks.

 

Mine weighs a ton! It's 54x54. I used all 2x4's , 1x6 for sheathing and rough sawn cedar for siding capped with a metal roof. The windows are double hung vynil. All on a 5 ft platform made out of 2x6's and deck boards. For one person it's a perfect size and for it's location the height is great. The wind isn't going to blow it over for sure.

 

Where do you buy your plastic sheeting?

 

I built this one using 16’ 4x4 post made each side then stood them up securing it with the floor hoist then built the othe walls after it was erected worked great and is sturdy as heck

 

I get the plastic sheeting from Total Plastic's in Rochester Hills, I buy foam on-line from The Foam Factory.