Basic Under Ice Sets for Muskrats, pics

Discussion in 'Trapping Techniques archive' started by soggybtmboys, Oct 5, 2007.

  1. Ok, I had the day off today and Joe's and BH2's post (along with Dean's) gave me the "idea for the day" ... make up some of each type.

    Went to the lumber yard and bought 12 8' 1x2 furring strips (pretty decent shape for furring strips) and one 8' 1x6. Also 1/4" bolts, wing nuts, and washers.

    Since I drive an Explorer, I am limited on length I can carry. So from each 1x2, I cut one 6' pole to use for Joe's type rig (giving me a total of 12). This left me with a 2' cut off from each piece,for a BH2 rig (enough for 6 rigs). On my rendition of the BH2 rig, I just left each 1x2 at 24". I couldn't quite see the final version (in my mind) of BH2's rig as I read his description. However, by following his very good instructions, they came together nicely.

    Here are a couple pics of each ... hopefully it will help someone else.

    Sorry the pics are a little fuzzy. Thanks for the post guys! Hopefully they are going to come in handy this winter.

    Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
  2. Hey, you're just a regular ol Bob Villa aren't ya.............:lol::evil: or Red Green but I don't see the duct tape..........LMAO

  3. Mr. ED,

    You nailed BH2's idea right on. The only thing I believe both me and John do with our conibears is remove the chains. As a side note 110's will work for John's method, but a single spring 160 will work better in my opinion. You get a lot less fired and empty traps with the larger jaw spread.

    You only missed one thing on my method. The board that your trap sets on in the picture should be long enough so that the spring rest on it as well, or most of it anyhow. Also I prefer to use OSB board for that part. The OSB will swell and some will flake off over time, but regular pine 1x6 has a tendancy to split easily. I use to have a problem with the nails for the trap and bait holder coming out. I solved that by use 8d nails and pounding them all the way through the board from the backside. The one that holds the trap is cut to about 1/2" and the bait holder is left at full length. Doing this the head of the nail will keep the nails from falling out of the OSB over time.

  4. OK, thanks Joe ... I understand now. I actually wondered about that length.

    How about a reg 160 on BH2's rig? I don't have that many, let alone extras to cut springs off. I don't see any more coming my way this year ... bought too many (per the wife) Monties from Jack.:lol:

    As for BH2's version ... I'm trying to figure out my own mod to it already. Ice fishin is my winter passion .... so, I'm still trying to figure out how to put the tip-up flag back on.:D I can see it now, sitting in the portable shanty, in the marsh, nice and toasty ... waiting for a flag.

    I'll try and keep the crotchety ole Red Green fans happpy too ... I'll prolly use a little duct tape.:lol:

    Now that I think of it ... where do you guys put your tag on these rigs? Just on the trap/chain? Or, would this be like an under ice beaver snare and each snare and the main pole need a tag?
  5. I dont have any pics of under-ice rat sets but thought I'd post a couple of my board-set pics...since this thread is discussing construction. I dont see why these couldnt be stuck down through a hole in the ice.

    I prefer to use natural and/or salvaged materials. My setups were made with no money out-of-pocket and have no moving parts (hinge points, bolt-threads, etc) which can get coated with ice.

    My components are simply a stout limb (maple, 2" diameter and 6-feet long), a small length of weathered barn wood, a couple feet of recycled trappers wire (to adjust board hieght up and down the pole) and a couple of rusty finish nails from the beaver-stretching can . ;)

    The pole is jammed into the bottom of the stream/lake, then the board is secured at the proper hieght by twisting the wire tightly around the pole. The trap chain is also secured with the same wire...


    The 'rat gets held down with the wieght of the 1-1/2 LS...


    Not saying my idea is the best but maybe it will provide construction ideas.
  6. Ed,

    No need to cut the springs to remove them. They can be taken on and off with the aid of a bench mounted vice in about 10 seconds. To remove the spring I put spring eye that wraps around the jaws in the vice. Then just bend it towards the outside of the spring. I usually open one eye and free it from the jaw then do the other. Same process but reversed for the install. You don't need much of a gap in the spring eye either. A 1/2" is plenty to remove the spring.


    Your setup is similar to what I started out with. Just watch out for beavers when using live wood or your gear will come up missing. I've had them cut off saplings that were two years old under the ice while trapping rats.

  7. Good point. If I ever use this set in an area with beavers, I'll use my draw knife to shave the bark and cambium off the poles, first. Thanks for the heads up.
  8. I have updated my original posting to show photos of Wes Grant's under ice conibear set.

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