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Wood stove chimney through metal roof.

19K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  -Axiom- 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I will be installing a woodstove chimney in my garage in August and was concerned with one part. When I cut the hole for the chimney and have to overlap the metal over the boot will I have to purchase another piece of metal being that the roof has one piece metal roofing from the bottom of the roof to the peak?

I would like the project to look professional with no signs that a rookie installed it. If I cut the metal roof that is in place know will it be to short to over lap at the chimney?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Is this what you are talking about?
http://www.pipebootexpress.com/

If you haven't purchased your chimney and stove pipe yet check out these guys. They had the best pricing that I could find when I put in an 8" chimney for the wood stove in my pole barn. I will be giving them a call when I reroof my camp. I am waiting for cooler weather to tackle that job. http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com/
 
#3 ·
I'm sure that boot would work fine for a vent pipe but on a chimney I have my doubts. It wont fit between the ribs like shown in the picture so your going to do some extra bending and leave potential for leaks. I decided to go through the wall at camp after looking at some of those boots. I went with metal so I won't ever have to get back up there again. Plus I like a good snow slide....
 
#4 ·
I had a boot made by oatey installed on my new construction metal roof over a year ago...no problems....this is the best way to go. I have the same ridiges on my roof as well.

Dave
 
#5 ·
If you go to a local retailer for wood stoves he should be able to get you a metal based rubber boot that is made for stove pipe that is designed to be molded over each rib. It isn't cheap I don't remember the exact price, but $125.00 is stuck in my head. The one I used at camp was installed after the roof was done like the situation you describe. I used a double backed rubber adhesive membrane between it and the roof then secured it with deck screws every three inches. I then sealed over the edges and the screw heads with that black plastic roof sealant. If I had my druthers I would have preferred to lap it from the top down over the flashing with the metal roofing like you suggested, but the roof was already completed before I installed the stove. It has been nine years now with no leaks (knock on wood). I do take a look at the black plastic roof sealant once a year and re-apply if and where it is necessary.

 
#6 ·
It depends on what type of metal roof you have.

Some boots are surface mounted, you just screw them down tight to the roof.
 
#7 ·
Don't use tar (plastic cement, or black stuff) on your metal roof.
Tar isn't for metal roofs, at all, ever, it will just crack and leak again in a year or 2.

Use a good quality silicone caulk or better yet a urethane caulk.
 
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