"Welding" Soft Plastics

[LittleMac]

On the garage workbench, I set up a "welding" station for soft plastics. It happens to be at a window, both for light and fume dispersal.

I first cut two flaps in the open end of a fair sized tin can and bent both flaps outward. One flap is a little longer than the other to accomodate the handle of a pencil type soldering iron, the other bent down flap holds the barrel or fat part of the iron. I filled the can 2/3 with dry sand to weight the can and also use the sand for the iron when I'm finished for the time being.

I plugged this iron into a plug strip along with a clamp light which is clamped on the board above the work area.

I only use the on/off switch of the strip....this way, when the light is on, it serves as a reminder that the iron is on also.

Having the iron in a stand makes the iron steady and easy to use.

When welding, it's important to heat both surfaces to be welded at the same time. Holding both parts and using the broad surface of the barrel instead of the sides of the narrow tip make most welding operations a breeze.

Beside the welding stand, I put a small piece of plywood for a cutting board and the station is complete.

Using the "welder"...... If you want a shorter tube, for example a
3 1/2 inch, simply cut 1/2 inch from the body and weld the two pieces together. After welding, hold the tube by both ends above the barrel and lightly touching the barrel, move it back and forth and at the same time rotating it to smooth the weld.

Altering Plastic body parts are a snap, and repairing hook damage in soft plastics is also easy. Use the point of the tip, insert it quickly where the hook did the damage and remove it quickly as well....pinch it together and in a few seconds it's fixed.

Something else you may wish to try....adding color to lures...for example, cut off the sides of a chartreuse (for example) grub and weld them on the sides of a white fluke. The welded sides not only add color, but also will taper in the same general manner as the fluke.

If you cut a tube 1/2 inch from where the skirt begins, then insert a plastic worm tail section or a grub tail section throug the back end until it protrudes out a little....then weld it and re-weld the tube, you have a tube with a trailer. While doing this, you may wish to add a small weight and a tube rattle as well before re-assembly.

All sorts of possibilities....Good Fishing, Max10

[LittleMac]

Almost forgot, a half grub body, cut the long way, welded to the belly area of a 4 inch lizard adds color and girth to the side profile of the lure. A chartreuse "ribbed" belly welded to a watermelon lizard adds a nice touch. Just something a little different, sometimes helps a lot. Good fishing, Mac

[Alex]

Good tips, thanks for the advice.

[LittleMac]

Thanks Alex, for you positive feedback.

Something else you may wish to weld, even though it's a little difficult. Try cutting two tubes of differing colors in half the long way and weld them back together after switching sides. For example, you may wish to use a pumpkin tube and a watermelon tube....cut in half and welded pumpkin to watermelon and watermelon to pumpkin. I just read on riversmallies.com that sometimes these "color combination tubes" really trigger the smallies and trigger largemouths as well.

[STEINFISHSKI]

Good stuff Mac. Does it work with power baits and scented grubs too?

[LittleMac]

I think so, but have no viable experience to go on. I've done a lot of welding on various makes and have never had difficulty. Just have to try it and once done, be sure to post your results.
Mac