Broadhead Sharpening

[jme]

How many of you guys sharpen your own broadheads? I regularly read that you can't assume that out-of-the-box broadheads are razor sharp. My fear is that I'd dull the brand new blades if I tried to 'sharpen' it. If I shoot a broadhead I just replace the blades rather than try to sharpen them (Muzzy, 3-blade, 125 gr.) If you sharpen your blades, new or used, what sharpening stones/system do you use. I use a Smith sharpening system for my knives (it's like a Lansky) and I love it. Is there something similar for broadheads?

Thanks,
John E
Ypsi

[Randy Kidd]

I have been shooting Muzzy's for over 15 years..Never had a dull blade yet, never needed to sharpen them, the replacement blads are as hair poppin sharp as the originals. I suppose you could resharpen them if they get dull from storage ect, but they are so easy to replace I don't bother.

[rzdrmh]

muzzys, although very sharp from the package and very effective at traveling through the boiler room, are not intended to be re-sharpened. (as with any other razor blade style head). in fact, i believe that muzzy advises NOT to attempt re-sharpening.

i shoot 2 blade magnus stingers, made from knife grade steel, that are intended to be re-sharpened. i'm kind of a detail guy - don't like shooting a head in the field that hasn't been shot at the range, so all my broadheads get shot and then resharpened. in fact, for the most part, that's all i practice with, unless required to use field tips. keep 6 broadheads around at all times.

when i re-sharpen them, i use a lansky. i sharpen them similar to how i sharpen my kitchen knives - that is - a relief edge followed by a primary edge. in the kitchen, that translates to 15-17 degree relief edge, with a 20 degree primary edge. on a broadhead, i use a 25 degree relief edge, and a 30 degree primary edge. when putting both edges on, you must sharpen until you feel the edge "curl" in the opposite side. once you get that curl, then lightly remove it, and you're all set.

i believe there are 2 thoughts on sharpness - razor sharp (delicate edge, but very sharp) and "rough" sharp (for lack of a better term). the muzzys and other razor blade style edges will shave hair, and to be sure, they are sharp. but they dull easily as well. when i sharpen broadheads, knives, etc. i like to put a rough sharp edge on them. that means i use a coarse and a medium stone, no fine stones. the idea is to create a microscopic row of "teeth", that are all aligned. it won't shave hair, but it will cut through flesh very effectively. (pick up one of my kitchen knives and try to shave hair with it and you'll have no luck, but God forbid you draw that edge against your finger.. ) additionally, it will hold an edge much longer. although i've never done it, i'm confident that i could shoot one of my magnus through a deer, pick up the arrow, and put it back in the quiver without re-sharpening. (assuming you haven't hit heavy bone, rocks, a lot of dirt, etc.)

no slams on muzzys or other "razor" style blades, all in what you prefer, i just like the strength and re-usable nature of a good knife grade steel broadhead.

[john warren]

i use mostly zwikies, 2 blade. i sharpen the on my grandfathers oilstone. been working for me since 1963.

[Ralph Smith]

I always sharpen mine. I use snuffer 125 gr. and took two small files and screwed them side by side on a block of wood. They make sharpeners like this, but it was cheaper to do it myself. Just sharpen all three sides evenly until you get the correct angle (will be different than factory) and doesn't take long to touch them up after that. They work great and have even blown a piece of rib out opposite side of deer once using my dads old 50# bear grizzly recurve. :D

[Ralph Smith]

I forgot to mention if you do this, don't hold broadhead while sharpening, attach it to short (maybe 6") piece of broken off old arrow so you don't have any accidents ;)

[vandermi]

I use the G5. All you need is a flat stone and a minute for each broadhead. They actually sell a stone for them, but I se two different grit stones from a die shop. Just hold them flat on the stone and push.

razor sharp!

[barry county jim]

I have sharpened my 3 blade Muzzys for years. I don't need to sharpen the new blades. I use an angled ceramic stone to touch up the ones that have been shot into targets.

Never had a problem with the blades except for the damage I have done to them, you just have to watch the ferrills. I always spin my arrows when I set them up.


I also use a rubberband to test the broadheads. I have read that a stretched RB is alot like an artery so if you can cut one you can cut the other

[unregistered5a]

I've used Bear Razorheads for years- I use a file to sharpen them. I've had no trouble putting a good edge on them. This year I'm going to shoot a 125gr Magnus 2 blade. I've done some shooting with them and had to sharpen a couple used the same file with the same results.Those Magnus heads are deadly sharp right from the package.

[TnRidge]

I have sharpened my 3 blade Muzzys for years. I don't need to sharpen the new blades. I use an angled ceramic stone to touch up the ones that have been shot into targets.

Never had a problem with the blades except for the damage I have done to them, you just have to watch the ferrills. I always spin my arrows when I set them up.


I also use a rubberband to test the broadheads. I have read that a stretched RB is alot like an artery so if you can cut one you can cut the other

I use a angled ceramic stone too . They work great to touch up blades . I just replace any blades that are really dull or have any chips on the edges .

[rzdrmh]

hate to keep pluggin the magnus, but they have a lifetime guarantee. shoot it into a wall, bend it, break it, or even just dull it, and its a postage stamp to get a new blade.

not bad in today's world.

[Kelly Johnson]

hate to keep pluggin the magnus,

Sharpness doesn't mean squat if they're different weights and the ferrules aren't straight though :bash: 3 packs in a row to find 4 heads that spun true.
Biggest reason I don't shoot them.

That'll maybe take away some of the guilt for ya RZ ;) :p

[Gobblerman]

I use the G5. All you need is a flat stone and a minute for each broadhead. They actually sell a stone for them, but I se two different grit stones from a die shop. Just hold them flat on the stone and push.

razor sharp!


I've heard alot of good things about G5's. I'm going to begin using them this year. I've been using 125 grain Innerloc's over the 5 years and they did a good job. They do put big hole's in the deer.

It's good to hear that I can use my stone and not have to puchase the stone Montec advertises.

[rzdrmh]

Sharpness doesn't mean squat if they're different weights and the ferrules aren't straight though :bash: 3 packs in a row to find 4 heads that spun true.
Biggest reason I don't shoot them.

That'll maybe take away some of the guilt for ya RZ ;) :p

really???

that's surprising to me.. i was shooting the g5outdoor's b-52's and couldn't get them to spin true. so i switched to magnus stingers, and have bought a few 3 packs, all of which spin true. this was after a recommendation from a friend, who uses them and he's not found one that didn't spin true.

weight differences? i've never found that either..

were you shooting the stingers?

i would have contacted magnus with the problem. i've found their customer service to be excellent.

i think you owe it to yourself to give them another try. after all, the superior terminal performance of 2 blade heads is well documented.. :lol:

by the way, have you seen muzzy's new head? forget what its called, but they labeled it as a 4 blade. looks to me like a two blade, cut on contact head with 2 bleeder blades. might be worth a try as well for you muzzy fans..

now, back to sharpening....

[Guybo]

I have several friends who shoot the Zwicky heads and do a good job resharpening them to reuse. I've never tried to sharpen any myself because i have always used Thunderheads and just replace the blades and save the old ones for practice. Mike

[Kelly Johnson]

by the way, have you seen muzzy's new head? forget what its called, but they labeled it as a 4 blade. looks to me like a two blade, cut on contact head with 2 bleeder blades. might be worth a try as well for you muzzy fans..

Phantom maybe? I have....look viscious.

I used the big Snuffers one year and the 2 Blade Screw ins the next.

I know what the issue was really...both of these were built to be a Glue on head adn than they added the "adapter" that was glued in. They weren't glued on quite evenly and varying amounts of glue were used (I think that was the weight difference anyway) I got btw 5 and 7 grain variances from 6 heads (not enough to stress but I am anal about weight tolerances)

I couldn't get 1 of the 6 to spin true no matter how I cut and evened the shaft or spun the insert.

I'm sure the stingers are better. I do like the looks and RELLY like the steel they use. That carbon blend gets wicked sharp...that's the steel I prefer my culinary tools to be made of actually.

i think you owe it to yourself to give them another try. after all, the superior terminal performance of 2 blade heads is well documented

And I'll just let that one sliiiide :lol: ;)

[deputy]

by the way, have you seen muzzy's new head? forget what its called, but they labeled it as a 4 blade. looks to me like a two blade, cut on contact head with 2 bleeder blades. might be worth a try as well for you muzzy fans..

i have been shooting the muzzy phantom it is either 2 or 4 blade i have had great luck with them your choice