Spearing shanty plans revised (more advice needed)

[mallardtone-man]

Ok, I have thought about it, and you are all right, the 10'x7'x5' is too big and heavy. I think I am going to go with a more traditional style. Here are some more rough plans that need critiqueing. One problem that I see right now is the size. Where as I like the dimensions, I do not see how I can do it without buying more wood than I really need. After a trip to home depot today I have tentatively decided on 3/8" 4x8' treated siding for the walls @ 18.00 a sheet and a 7 year weather gaurentee. I will be bracing that with 8ft 2x3" studs @ 1.99 apeice.

As for the floor and roof, I need advice. I will be making the floor elavated 4" by making a frame of 2x4's and then laying the wood on top. I am not sure if I should use osb, plywood, or RTD sheeting, or what thickness is best. I would like to use osb because it is cheap, but am not sure if it will hold up to the weather. The problem with the dimensions is that the ends, the floor and the ceiling cannot be made with one peice of wood, as they are 5' wide. I like 5' as I think 4' is too small.

For the ceiling I may be able to use something smaller, then a layer of insulation, then a sheet metal cap made by my buddies dad. Would that work? Also, what should be used as insulation.

Here are a few simple more diagrams I put together. I still need alot of advice. I am pretty sure I like the style and dimensions, but I need help as to how to distribute building materials and what to use for what. I am trying to build this cheap, but sturdy. Something that will last me a few years or more.

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/539/4507ice_shanty_side.GIF

This is the side

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/539/4507ice_shanty_floor.GIF

Floor

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/539/4507ice_shanty_rough_floor.GIF

Floor before boards are added.

[kbkrause]

Why a 7' wall, I'd make it shorter to save on weight.

[salmonslammer]

Well....here's my .02...Sure there are a couple dozen other view points.


I am guessing that you either wanted a big shanty or you are throwing an 8' spear?? Take it from someone that has been there, you don't want a bigger shanty....I built a 6' x 10', 8' high and the thing was a beast. Heavier than a dead cow and being 8' high was imposible to heat on windy day, (remind you this was 20 years ago, heaters sucked) and the shear weight of the thing caused it to frezze into the ice. We had to cut the floor with a chainsaw to get it out.


I would use 2x2 framing, 2'OC for the studs. Get some 2x4 and rip them. Plenty strong enough. You can use a 5x7 dimension, Good size for spearing.

I would pitch the roof, 7'high over the hole down to 6' on the side you are sitting on (unless your 6'7!!!) Less water standing on the roof the longer it will last. The extra height is good for a shelf and maybe some speed reels under it or a cargo net to throw your kack in.

You can insulate the roof and walls with ISP panels, they are the pink ones. Cut to fit and attach with some adhesive. Run a bead of silicone after the panels are in place and they will stay forever.

I'd use some dryall screws to secure everything...They make it way easier to change something or replace a busted whatever down the road.

Don't use OSB for the floor....The water will eat it up. Exterior grade plywood will work, just put a sealer or good paint on it to keep it from getting waterlogged.

I like to nail a piece of 2x2 to the bottom of the 2x4 joists to act as a breakaway if it frezzes to the ice as well.




Had a couple of other things that I thought of.....But the train of thought derailed at the curve and I can't remember what it was....... Been a long day

Let us know how it turns out!!!

[neil duffey]

man alive, id defanitly get that trophy pike mounted! :p

[chuckinduck]

Yes, I too have had shanties in the past and I wouldn't go that big.....while they are roomie........transportation is a pain in the ****......I constructed a new one this year and we went 7 x 5 x 7 high. A couple words of advice or possibly an alteration...use the smallest studs you can as it will lighten your shanty considerably............and I would prefer to have my hole located in the exact middle of the shanty. My reasoning is.........if you spear with multiple people and you have one person on each side of the hole, it is possible to see into the water underneath your partners feet, due to the angle from which you are looking into the water........often times friends of mine have spotted pike underneath me, which I wasn't able to see yet..............doesn't mean your going to get them to committ to coming into the hole, but at least you can get your spear ready if he's a taker..........just my opinion though....good luck and let us know how it turns out......oh yah..............elevate your door off the ice.........you don't want it flush with ice because slush and snow will ice the door up making it hard to shut completely.......I also like to put 1" shims under each corner of my shanty when I get it situated.........that will prevent it from freezing to the lake......

[Banditto]

Yes use the smallest studs, but I am so freaking surprised nobody says to use cedar studs. They are like 1/4 the weight of pine and just as strong.

We engineer the structure to hold equal weight with 1X3's while using 2X2's for corners and trusses. The sheathing will strengthen the walls.

[Burksee]

Yes use the smallest studs, but I am so freaking surprised nobody says to use cedar studs. They are like 1/4 the weight of pine and just as strong........Wouldnt they be more than twice ($$$) as much though? :eek:

[bullydog324]

.and I would prefer to have my hole located in the exact middle of the shanty. My reasoning is.........if you spear with multiple people and you have one person on each side of the hole, it is possible to see into the water underneath your partners feet, due to the angle from which you are looking into the water........often times friends of mine have spotted pike underneath me, which I wasn't able to see yet..............doesn't mean your going to get them to committ to coming into the hole, but at least you can get your spear ready if he's a taker.
:yeahthat:

[Banditto]

Wouldnt they be more than twice ($$$) as much though?

depends on if you are talking about the cost of replacing them from rotting, then no being the cedar will last 10X longer. And we bought our cedar from Home Depot in 1X4 and ripped them. Added wind bracing for strength and it is extremely light.

[lawnboy]

Take a hard look at metal studs…and shoot I would use that plastic sheathing that they use in bathrooms. A lot less weight, just make sure that you put in wind bracing.

[neil duffey]

what is wind bracing? im going to try and answer my own question here but is it the tie downs u use for portable blinds? like auger a short hole into the ice and anchor the shanty?

[Banditto]

Wind bracing is where you tie in a stud diagonally across a wall. You notch the other studs, glue it, and screw it down. It really adds a lot of strength. Not really done much anymore but a lot historic buildings use it if you get my meaning.

[lawnboy]

No, it’s the diagonal bracing that runs from the top coroner at a 45’ to the bottom plate. Look in an old garage and you’ll see what I’m talking about what you would see is a 1x6 recessed into the 2x4’s. It also keeps the walls from racking. Today they use plywood so it’s no longer needed. Also the bracing that’s sold today is made out of metal and about 2” wide.

[rendotwo]

Check Out The Other Forums On Shantys And You Will Get A Better Understanding. Some Have Some Good Pictures

[Banditto]

Lawnboy, aren't we saying the same thing. Anyway that is what I think I meant.

BTW they still build like that around Rose City.

[lawnboy]

Ya we must have been posting at the same time. Mine was not in response of yours.

[2tundras]

Sounds good. Here are a few pennies

The shacks I've done, or helped do, all seemed adequate with 1x1.5 studs and with 1/4 luan. Just Liquid nails the heck outa everything. 1/2 osb on the floor is fine. Don't piant the floor, if you use it a lot it'll come off quick. Cheap carpet roll ends will quite it down and you won't slip, I've always liked the shacks with a little carpet in em.

Don't paint it black, sucks up too much heat and you'll be floating in a puddle. Utility grey works good, or anything bright. My cousin actually painted his white one time. Brillant.

Silicone all your seams.

Put a limiter strap on your door. I've seen quite a few broken in the wind.

If your gonna run some tip-ups, a couple of small windows with covers are nice. Great for checking to see if that sled coming on ya is the Boys in Green.

Your one long hole is fine, those always sem to have worked out fine, just make sure you mount your decoy reels far enough apart to avoid a tangle.

A parting thought. Pick up four of those "L" brackets and the proper carriage bolts, fender washers, and lock nuts and brace all your corners with those. HUGE difference when you gotta reef it outa the slush.