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SRT
12-22-2004, 12:59 PM
what kind of bike do you need for some of these offroad trails? i was thinking of going sometime. i just ride around the neighborhood. i have what you would classify as a mountain bike i guess but its not some crazy expensive big name bike so i didnt know if i should keep on the cement or not




Janehal
12-23-2004, 09:02 AM
I ride my M.B. to work every day of the year....it is a OLD Ross Mt. St. Helens and really is a great ride....Most M.T.Bikes are made in the same factorys in Tiawan and the main difference in price is the group of components that are fitted to the bike...assuming that you are comparing steel bikes with each other and aluminum bikes with their own.My thoughts are ride what you have and if something breaks then replace it with a grade up. Winter salt will take it's toll on the bike but I guess who cares.....I have a great Trek MT. Bike set up with 85 psi. Slicks that I use on the paved rail trails in the summer....Good luck riding and have a very good holiday season.....go to a Magizine store and see if they have any Biking Mags....their are lots out there.......Hal

SRT
12-23-2004, 09:41 AM
thanks - any recommendations on the mags? dont know what will be way over my head or not

Ron L
12-27-2004, 08:01 AM
There's Bicycling, Mountain Bike Action to name a couple of the more popular magazines.

What kind of bike do you have now? Brand? Components? Number of gears? Sometimes, depending on the bike, you may not need a new one, but a few wise upgrades can make a world of difference.

SRT
12-27-2004, 02:20 PM
What kind of bike do you have now? Brand? Components? Number of gears? Sometimes, depending on the bike, you may not need a new one, but a few wise upgrades can make a world of difference.

I have a Honda racing. I think 12 gears. I originally bought it cause it was cheap and pretty and just wanted a bike. I don't think there's anything like real good on it performance-wise.

Ron L
12-28-2004, 08:48 AM
Well, given that, at the cost of upgrading your current steed, I'd buy a new bike. Stop by a few bike shops and you'll probably be pleasantly surprised at how much better the entry level bikes are today compared to several years ago. Stick with a bigger name brand, Trek, Giant, or Specialized, to name a few, all offer decent component groups. They're at least usable and serviceable. Buy the best frame you can. All else being equal, components eventually get banged around or simply wear out and will be replaced. When you replace components is the perfect time to upgrade. The frame is the part that tends to stick around the longest. For Michigan, a full suspension rig with 6" of travel isn't necessary, and looking at a hardtail is the best way to get the most bang for your buck.

SRT
12-29-2004, 01:49 PM
thanks alot

Chris_Davis
01-03-2005, 02:43 PM
For Michigan, a full suspension rig with 6" trave isn't necessary

No, but 4 and 5 inches can be fun!
http://groups.msn.com/BicyclingForumPicPost/felonysalbum.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1927
http://groups.msn.com/BicyclingForumPicPost/felonysalbum.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1934

If price is a concern you can't beat a hardtail. Minimum cost on an entry level trail bike, IMO, would be $400 ($350 on sale). You could get by with a less expensive bike, but the bikes starting around $400 begin to get more fun (less maintenance, more confidence). At that pricepoint most bikes will be similarly equipped, my suggestion is to shop around for a good bike shop you feel comfortable with. Good advice is almost always better than a good brand name.

Once you get a bike you feel good with, slide over to the MMBA's Trail Guide and check out the local conditions.

http://www.mmba.org/trails.php

1wildchild
01-06-2005, 10:34 AM
Being fitted on your bike is also important. A good bike shop will fit you when you purchase your bike. Look at your stand over height, Is the seat raised to the proper height. Are you comfortable with the reach to your handlebars?

Specialized mades a Hardtail called the hardrock. It is a good entry level bike. They can take a ton of abuse and are relatively inexpensive. If all else fails get out and ride what you have!

pucstopr30
01-12-2005, 02:59 PM
All these posts are right on. Best to go to a local shop and get fitted. Ride a few around and see what feels the best.
Good luck and have fun....

Janehal
01-13-2005, 12:08 PM
glad to see that there is so much interest and help for this post.....what a sport.......once had a pair of IRC Studded tires for by bike for the winter....don't know if they still make them , they really helped when the roads got slick Hal

Centrarchidae
01-19-2005, 08:54 AM
glad to see that there is so much interest and help for this post.....what a sport.......once had a pair of IRC Studded tires for by bike for the winter....don't know if they still make them , they really helped when the roads got slick Hal

Rather than buy studded tires, which are pretty expensive, take an old set of tires and put small wood screws right through the knobs drilling from the inside so they point out. You don't want them to stick out too far thpugh. Then just buy some tire liners like Mr. Tuffy's or Spinskins and you have a complete set of studded tires for under $30. If your still worried about flats, some slime should ease your mind. My brother has ridden a pair of these for three years (10 mile commute and no car). They're not the lightest set-up in the world, but they work and you can recycle some tires than are a little worn out.

Chris_Davis
01-19-2005, 04:48 PM
If you decide to make your own (crazy) choose a quality tire. Cheap tires with loosely wooven casings will not grip the screws well. The screw to use is a #6 Robertson 3/8inch panhead sheet metal screw (the one with the round, not cone shaped head). You don't need a screw in every knob. About the time you get to your 50th screw, check out the new tires from Innova and Kenda. The Innova are really cheap but use steel studs. The Kendas are much cheaper and more readily available than Nokians (the best) and use carbide studs, like Nokians.