Everyone Read...you Will All Be Master Archers After Doing So!!!

[GVDocHoliday]

Follow the diagram to get rough tuned.
(yes I made this diagram using MS Paint)
http://www.hunt101.com/img/114056-big.JPG (http://www.hunt101.com/?p=114056&c=500&z=1)

Now that you are rough tuned it is time to commence...fine/broadhead tuning.

Get six arrows, three for broadheads, three for fieldpoints. Make sure they spin straight as this is critical to broadhead flight. Actually, the most IMPORTANT THING IS PROPER ARROW SPINE. MAKE SURE YOUR ARROWS ARE OF THE PROPER SPINE OR THIS WILL GIVE YOU A HEADACHE!!!

Ok then, the farther you are from the target the better. I suggest 40 yards seeing how 99.9% of all ethical shots on whitetails in Michigan are well under this distance.

Shoot your field points for a group at 40 yards. Now shoot your broadheaded arrows for group using the same aiming point of reference. Now go to the target and analyze the groupings.

Where are broadheads impacting? did they shave fletch off of the fieldpoints? If so you're the man, you are done, go have a beer. If not, still go grab a beer, crack it open, and leave it there for motivation to get this done...because you don't want that beer getting warm now do we.

Most common are usually high or low impacts of the fieldpoints. If they impact high, move the rest down in small increments until same POI...if they are low then move the rest up until same POI.

Left and rights are also this easy. If they are hitting left, move the rest right, if they are hitting right, move the rest left. If you can't seem to get the left and right hitting the same point of impact as your fieldpoints then you have spine issues...could be strong could be weak...if you are having these issues send me a line with your setup and I'll give you my opinion on what you can do to remedy the problem. Sometimes it's just as simple as changing point weight from lighter to heavier or vice versa.

Now that we have the same POI, resight your bow in as the adjustments of the rest will move the point of impact off of the bullseye, which is were we want that POI to be. Now pat yourself on the back and enjoy the frothy lager.

[LReed]

That is one of the simplest and easy to understand set of directions for tuning I've seen. Thanks for putting it together Doc.

[Trushot_Archer]

Easily understood and comes with instructions for positive re-enforcement as well! What could be better?! Very nice Bry.

[deepwoods]

Doc,

I'm curious, if after you do this, you paper tune your bow to check arrow flight or do you just assume that because they are impacting the same spot spot that flight is good? This seems pretty fool proof. It must be if I understand it. :D

[NorthJeff]

Basically if you can get your arrows to do what Doc is saying, than you don't need to paper-tune.

One thing though, if your arrows are not spined properly, you will not be able to experience the results that Doc is illustrating no matter how much you move your rest. In fact, it will be downright frustrating. What Doc is illustrating is more of fine tuning method when everyting else has been set-up properly from the beginning, with at least an educated guess of proper spine assumed.

At the same time, group testing is very noticable at 40 yards.......IF you are good enough to keep a 1-2" group consistantly. Again too, at 20 yards, to really notice a differance you have to be good enough to see the differance of a 1/2" group to a 1" group. For the average guy, a 1" group is pretty darn good.


If you have a relaxed bow-hand release(your not tourquing your bow), and you paper tune at 5-6', you can tell if your arrows are spined properly by how clean of a tear they leave. If they will not leave a clean tear, no matter what you do, or you have to move your rests to extremes either right, left, up, or down, your arrows are not spined properly. By moving further in paper-tuning, such as out to 15' or more, it is possible that a poorly spined arrow could have stabalized itself enough to fool you into thinking your properly set-up, especially if you use large fletchings or feathers. But, at 6' you can't fool the paper unless you take a poorly spined arrow, lower the nocking point so that the arrow is slamming into the rest and bouncing back just in time to give you a "perfect" bullet hole.....but you will notice that.

I always start with my 6' tear, which will tell me how my arrows match my bow, as well as rest position, and then go to group testing at 40+ yards to fine tune. Will usually take less than 20 minutes.

[farmlegend]

Sounds like a great way to go.

Especially for you guys that don't have to drive 30 minutes to find a place where you can shoot a 40-yarder! :lol:

[Oct.1]

O.K. help me under stand something.
Won’t the field tip arrows follow the relationship of the adjustment you just made for the broad head?

[east bay ed]

oct. 1
remeber that your braodheads will exaggerate any movement. so the movement of your field points is much less.

the other thing is if your bow is out of time or you have limb issues this will only drive you to the funny farm figuring it out.

a point on northjeff's comments if you want to check your spine take a lighter and heavier field point and shoot them both. i.e. if you shoot 100gr. try a 125 and a 85 the 125 will soften the spine and the 85 will stiffen the spine. if one of these two shoots better you know you either need to stiffen the arrow or you need to soften the arrow.
there are a couple ways to do this.

BUT as a shop owner i don't see why we need to give all the tuning tricks away that i have either paid to learn or have learned over time from other dealers. come on guys i have to make a living some how.

[FREEPOP]

It should probably be said that if your rest is fixed (can't be moved), like mine is, then you move your nock. This is for the up and down adjustments.

[NorthJeff]

Freepop....get rid of that rest!! :)

What I like to do is tie my nok in, including the loop, and it stays there until either the loop gets frazzled, I sell the bow, or I change the string. Much easier to just move the rest, if it moves.

[Trushot_Archer]

What rest do you have that you can't move Freepop? You go traditional when I wasn't looking?

[FREEPOP]

I use a flipper plunger rest always have and probably always will. I still shoot fingers and wil probably will never change that either. Something about old dog and new tricks ;)

[NorthJeff]

Yep when you use fingers that flipper rest can be a great rest for you....certainly understand. I'm actually trying a drop-away rest this year...not because of an increase in accuracy, tuning, etc., but for the prospect of it being the quietest rest I can buy...we'll see.

There is a good rest for finger shooters out there...I'm sure there are a few, but I believe it was called a "shooting star rest"?, basically a launcher style with a side piece for finger shooters, but it was micro-adjustable.

[GVDocHoliday]

sorry bout that eastbay ed,

I kinda gave a scrambled up method on this a couple of weeks ago and recieved a lot of PM's to clarify it...so I just redid it and posted in the newly formed archery section.

[Oct.1]

Doc, East Bay,
Thanks for the tips.
Its hard finding someone that will do a good tuning job. That’s why I try to do it myself.
When I retire and get in your neck of the woods if you guys are still in the business you will have mine.
Looking to buy property around Lake City now.
Thanks Again

[bucknduck]

Hi Doc,
I'm not sure if something happened to the image you posted or if my computer is just acting up today, but I can no longer see the MS paint image? Is the image still available?
By the way, great information. I'm getting my bow out again today when I get home to finish fine tuning it. I try to shoot at least 2-3 days a week when work and home duties permit. :)

Rich

[east bay ed]

doc,
no big deal. i got to have something to p&m about.

i feel for some of you guys, i've been at tech classes put on by the manufactures with some guys and you just wonder how they get through the day without breaking something.
while we are talking. if you want to be a better shot, shoot at smaller targets. we tune and sight in every bow that leaves my shop. i can not count how many times guys (and gals) say i can't hit a single target pin at 20 yards. then they are amazed when the put three arrows in a 1" or smaller area in or around the target pin. always use the smallest bullseye that you can see and you groups will be much better.

[GVDocHoliday]

Aim small, miss small.

[GVDocHoliday]

This is in reply to Oct. 1...I myself do not have an archery business...it's just my life away from work. It is my dream to someday own a proshop, but until I graduate from GVSU, get a career started, and win a few national shoots to add to my resume other than just a few State Championships, I don't feel I'd be able to last long.

On a nother note, if any of you all have a proshop near GR and are looking for some weekend help starting in September, don't hesitate to ask.

[Oct.1]

Thanks Doc. But I'll still ask ya for help.

[Virgil]

Thanks for posting on this topic. I have been bothered by this situation since I got my new bow a couple years ago. Centered on target at 20 yds but always left futher out. Played with sights and basically just split the difference. It never dawned on me that I should move the rest. I'm on vacation up north next week and will have lots of time to get it right.

Virgil

[GVDocHoliday]

Where's about up north there Virgil?

[Virgil]

Doc,

Up North would be just north of the Manistee River, a mile west of M-66 between Lake City and Kalkaska. :D

Virgil

[Death_From_Above]

I seemed to miss the point when we forgot to drink the rest of the BEERS!!!!!!!!!

[wolfgang510]

Sorry for more questions but I wanted to get a couple things clear.

Lets say you just replaced your string and are ready to tune your bow. What is the first step? Do you line your pin up the way you want, start shooting, and then make adjustments to your rest, or do you start shooting and make adjustments to your pin?

My interpretation is that fine tuning involves the comparison of broadheads to field points and making rest adjustments. After broadheads and field points are hitting the same, then make pin sight adjustments. I guess my confusion is the rougher tuning and the order of steps to follow.

Currently my bow shoots high right with broadheads.

[FREEPOP]

shoot your bow as much as possible after changing the string for a couple weeks to a month. Then worry about fine tuning, becuase string stretch will give you headaches!

[PrtyMolusk]

Howdy-

OK, I give up!

I've called up this post about two dozen times since it appeared, refreshed numerous times, and I still don't see any diagram or sketch !

Please, somebody hep me out!!!!

[GVDocHoliday]

I'm still seeing the picture so I don't know what's wrong with that.

If you're broadheads are hitting high and right of your field points, then move your rest down or your nocking point up, and your rest to the left. Do this in very small increments until the broadheads are hitting with your fieldpoints. Then, resight in your bow. You have to resight because your impact points are changing due to moving the rest.

[STEINFISHSKI]

Thanks for the tips, my points have always shot different than my broadheads. I thought they were supposed to.:dizzy:

Looking forward to doing some shooting / tuning this weekend.

[Ranger Ray]

I don't see the picture either. Good instructions though GVDocHoliday. Thank you!

[PrtyMolusk]

Howdy-

Don't know what happened, but today I can see the illustration! Way cool!

Thanks, GVDH!