What do you guys think about old Fred Bear recurves

[Steve]

I've been checking out old Fred Bear recurves of various models. Would one of these bows be good as an antique and as a good recurve bow? Or do the limbs wear out over time where they would be no good because the bow is so old?

Another question. Most of the recurves on ebay state a draw weight, but most don't state a draw length. How does this work on a recurve? Is it one size fits all? If my draw is 50# on a recurve do I actually have to buy one that is 60# because I wouldn't be pulling it back as far as someone else?

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[bishs]

Draw weights on a recurve are all based on a 28 inch draw. If you want to shoot 50lbs, and your draw length is less than 28 inches, you will have to buy a bow with a draw weight heavier than 50 lbs.

Figure around 3 lbs. of weight per inch of draw. Some bows "stack up" fast after 28 inches.

[Oct.1]

Steve,
I have a Kodiac. Manufacture date is sometime in the 60's. I like it because its short. I do a lot of hunting in the heavy stuff and It carries well. As far as an antique, I have never looked at it that way. It has been dependable, fits me well (of course I'm left handed so have to look at whats available.)You need to fit yourself for comfort just like a conpound. I have never had any problems, check my draw weight a lot and it hasen't changed. I do however let down the string when not shooting. So far I have'nt noticed and cracks in the glass at all and don't hear any when drawing. I won't set it aside even if its considered an antique. I like shooting it and hope someday when I'm not around my kids will too.
Keep at it. Its nice to get rid of all that weight and the bells and whistles. Its just fun to shoot.

Old Bears are still nice. Some folks collect them. Like anything else used, you want to try and get a "satisfaction guarentee"(especially sight unseen) usually this is not a problem, but ask first.
Unless the bow was missused / abused it should still function almost as good as if new. Be carefull of drilled holes, cracks, and limb twist.
Like "bishs" mentioned # of pull is USUALLY at 28", BUT not always. Talk to the seller and get a feel for who your dealing with is a good idea.
Anouther couple of things worth mentioning;
Older bows are slower in cast as a rule, They're not too receptive to Fastflite or many of the newer low stretch string materials and were probably recommended as using B-50 or simular.
They like heavier arrows (depending on Mfg. date - I'd say pre 1980's +/-) Figure 8 gr./ lb. of draw weight wouldbe pushing it. This would rule out Easton's ultralite (and the such) shafting, along with any unweighted carbons.
My personal Bear favorites are the ones with the high wrist risers, they are truely a pleasurable bow (for me) to shoot.
If your not too concerned with the "speed thing", Bears as well as Ben Pearson's are usually a good deal. Wings are good bows also, but most that I've found are more target oriented as opposed to hunting models.
Hope this helps you.

[mauso1]

Steve.. i love my Bear recurves..Still shoot them ....i have taken deer out to 40 yards with a Kodiak magnum, Grizly and Super Mag 48...(very unforgiving)I picked up an new (old) Kodiak last summer from a dealer who usually goes to shows....only $90 for one that had very little wear ...needed a new covering on the shelf.....I shoot cedar arrows fletched with real feathers...And i don't shoot with a site as i learned to shoot instinctivly at 16....wow was that a long time ago....my 1st new Bear was made in 1967....if they have been properly treated they can be handed down generation after generation.....a couple of mine have been....mauso1