Another leaky thread..

[sirslurpee]

I did some searching.. it seems everyone has different methods of repairing leaky aluminum boats. I've got a 14' that leaks slightly around the rivets in the rear. I was considering trying to buck the rivets back tight, but I'm not 100% confident I can do it without messing things up. Also, I don't think I can get to both sides of the rivets that are under the benches, since they are riveted to the hull. I'm considering trying 3M 5200 adhesive. My question is, should I apply it to both sides of the rivets, or just the inside or outside? I've considered using JB weld as well, but I doubt my abilities with that stuff too. What kind of advice/input can you guys give me to help keep me dry?

[waterfoul]

5200 on the inside should seal it up. But, JB Weld on the outside will help too.

[Greenbush future]

First choice is to replace the rivits with new ones, second is the goop method, that should work for a while.

[jakeo]

JB Weld works great. 5th year here and no leaks.

[barryl]

First choice is to replace the rivits with new ones, second is the goop method, that should work for a while.

:yeahthat:

I have the same problem with my boat (the bigger the boat the stickier the problems :( ).

see the details here - http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=301640

It's an excellent forum for repairs, of any kind, it's my 2nd favorite forum

[sirslurpee]

Thanks barry! I hope when you splash the starcraft you find it to be super dry on the inside...

As for me, I dunno if I wanna try to drill the rivets and replace. I've never had any experience with rivets, and I sure as hell don't have the tools to do it.

[barryl]

dah :tdo12:, I just looked at your location. I'm up the road in Genesee. I have the tools for regular pop rivets, the water tight kind, and a pneumatic puller. The rivets I have are longer than needed but they work, well most of them anyways. The bucking dye I'm still looking for, it's for the OEM rivets. I've got lots of tools, the wife and I were Industrial Tinsmiths (retired) and to bad for us, they had been welding everything by the time we were apprentice's. My schedule is a little hectic right now but I can always find some time to help a fellow fisherman. Shoot me a PM if you need them.

[sirslurpee]

Thanks I really appreciate it! I may want to use them, but, you might need to demonstrate it..
I am kinda leaning toward the JB weld/5200 route.. I feel like it will be easier and less likely for me to screw up. Also I've read quite a bit of discussion about re-riveting not helping if the metal is stress-cracked. Although, I could fill the hole with JB and then insert the rivet maybe?

So if I decide to go with the JB/5200 route, what do I need to do to prep it? I was thinking steel brush or wheelbrush and acetone?

[double trouble]

aluma weld or its generics. you only need a torch and the stuff is cheap. harbor freight even has it. just melt it right over the rivets.
only $12.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44810

[sirslurpee]

aluma weld or its generics. you only need a torch and the stuff is cheap. harbor freight even has it. just melt it right over the rivets.
only $12.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44810

man that sounds like an awesome idea.. although i read some posts saying that people trying to weld not knowing what they're doing made the damage worse. i am pretty sure they were talking about high-temp torches.. how can i get a hold of some scrap aluminum to practice on?:D

[double trouble]

nearest scrap yard like spooner metals..they will sell me aluminum for about .60 a pound. or just steal the neighbors mower.:lol:

[sirslurpee]

Come to think of it, I have some aluminum exhaust adapters downstairs.. I just went to the hardware store and got a few brazing rods.. Gonna practice after dinner and if all goes well I will be fixing this boat this weekend :D


Update: I may not be the brightest bulb in the box.. pretty sure the exhaust adapter is stainless. However, I tried to use the brazing rod on an aluminum can a few times, and then i grabbed part of an old computer case, and it wouldn't bond to either. I went out and wirebrushed part of the boat and tried to get it to just bond to the hull.. no go. Conclusion: Bernzomatic aluminum brazing rods suck hard. I think I'm gonna try to get a hold of some durafix.

[ibthetrout]

Durafix sucks too! I had a leaky jon for a while and used truck bed liner made by Dupont (bought at Meijer and like rhino liner) and I sprayed the entire bottom. It sealed the rivets and protected the bottom too. If you were trying to repair a gash or something like that i would tell you to go find someone that welds aluminum. Those aluminum brazing rods, while they work well for the beer can seal-a-hole demonstration, suck for welding thicker aluminum used on boats. For even more info go check out tinboats.net. those guys know all the tricks for dealing with tinboat repair. Good luck!

[Greenbush future]

Pop rivits are not recomended, I drilled and used new old fashioned alum rivits, you must have access to both sides of the rivit to do this. 2 person job, and you will need the steel tools to cover the cap and the other end too. A dab of under water cylicone (sp) on each rivit. This the the "best" fix but ya cant always get to all the rivits to do this.

[sirslurpee]

I'm gonna try the cabelas aluminum boat patch. It's specifically made for patching aluminum so I figure why not?