What am I doing wrong?

[Ice Crusher]

I've got countless hours on the ice this year with very little results. I'm from the Charlotte , Lansing area so I've fished around there, Lake Lansing, Duck Lake, Lake of the woods, Fox knoll lake, Lake alliance, Sleepy Hollow, Total firearms lake, and a few others. I've used tip ups for pike with no luck and have used every tear drop in my box for bluegills. I've been skunked more times than not. I've been at all different times of the day have moved to different spots on the lakes tried different deapths and I'm just not catching many fish. I got 6 nice gills on lake alliance once and have been back twice without any luck. I got a few crappies at sleepy hollow around 8 pm after sitting there since 2pm. I've had more tip-ups out this year with shiners or sucker minnows and have yet to see a flag up. Anybody have any suggestions on where or how to catch fish around here? I'll settle for anything.

[Kelly Johnson]

Electronics?

That helped me a TON.

[Gutz]

Electronics?

That helped me a TON.


:yeahthat:

[shawnfire]

that helped me out a ton also, anyone will be a great choice I have a vex but been looking at m67 or 68. it really does help

[perch pounder]

my best advice would be to take a road trip to white or muskegon lake....you will not get skunked at either of those...:)

[SURF&TURF]

Yeah Electronics!! Thinking about 440 volts to get them walleye out on the bay, Fished Friday & Sunday with out one fish on the ice been tough:dizzy: Passed a white van last Sunday had to have been around 6 miles out of Linwood:yikes: I think he had a generator :lol:

[Ice Crusher]

No I don't have any electronics, but people used to catch a **** load of fish before electronics, so there must be a way. However, I am thinking about making the investment. what is the best stuff out there without spending more than $350 or so? Vexilar?

[basskiller46]

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION







The fish wont find you have to find them. I havent been out much this season
but the times i have without electronics i did just fine. Do some research and keep moving around.

Good Luck

[PINKSTEEL]

I've got countless hours on the ice this year with very little results. I'm from the Charlotte , Lansing area so I've fished around there, Lake Lansing, Duck Lake, Lake of the woods, Fox knoll lake, Lake alliance, Sleepy Hollow, Total firearms lake, and a few others. I've used tip ups for pike with no luck and have used every tear drop in my box for bluegills. I've been skunked more times than not. I've been at all different times of the day have moved to different spots on the lakes tried different deapths and I'm just not catching many fish. I got 6 nice gills on lake alliance once and have been back twice without any luck. I got a few crappies at sleepy hollow around 8 pm after sitting there since 2pm. I've had more tip-ups out this year with shiners or sucker minnows and have yet to see a flag up. Anybody have any suggestions on where or how to catch fish around here? I'll settle for anything.

Sounds to me like your spreading your self way to thin on too many lakes

The lake that you have done the best on needs to be your main focus since you know that there are good size fish and then spend all of your time on that lake and only that lake and fish all over even if other fisherman havent fished there YOU SHOULD STILL TRY DIFFRENT PLACES ON THE LAKE. Also make sure you have a topo map of the lake and maybe even start to make some fishing logs on when and where you catch them.

Sonars help out allot and the Lowrance x67c will cost you less than $300

GOOD LUCK ;)

[Ice Crusher]

Thanks, I have been on too many lakes instead of focussing on one. Lets start with the basics. When fishing a lake for the first time where do I start? Lets say It's a fairly small lake and I have some idea of the depth but thats it. If I drill a few holes and don't catch anything how long should I stay there? When I decide to move how far should I go? How deep should i be fishing relative to the depth of the lake if I'm just trying to catch gills or anything for that matter? I usually go where the other fisherman are or I try to find where the most holes have been drilled. Is that a good policy?

[sea nympho]

Deciding where to start (hard water or soft) is always difficult b/c there are so many factors to consider:dizzy:. When you're on square-one, find something on the contour map that sets it apart from the rest of the lake, like:

humps/sunken islands, reefs
inlets/outlets/narrows
live green weeds!
holes/basins
points/bays
rocks, stumps, gravel,etc
steep breaks
Hard/soft bottom
Then examine the edges of that structure for something that sets IT apart from the rest. This is how I approach & have learned unfamiliar waters, gotta put some time in and always be building off your last times there.. getting skunked is only a failure when one hasn't learned one more thing (not) to do. ;)

You're fishing for pike? I rarely set tip-ups in more than 12fow, w/ 6-10' weedy flats being ideal. Live, green weeds are the one absolute constant for pike fishing (for me) in winter. Inlets/outlets, necked-down areas, anywhere w/ a little current should be a place worth investigating. As winter wanes, like right now, pike will begin moving to spawning habitiats, shallow, sticky bottom, current, WEEDY (think reeds), first-to-thaw areas....great late-ice pike fishing spots.

A graph (x67, etc...) sonar unit could be useful to you year-round,flashers have a great user interface but their usefulness over a graph stops there.

Good luck, hope this helps.

[PINKSTEEL]

Thanks, I have been on too many lakes instead of focussing on one. Lets start with the basics. When fishing a lake for the first time where do I start? Lets say It's a fairly small lake and I have some idea of the depth but thats it. If I drill a few holes and don't catch anything how long should I stay there? When I decide to move how far should I go? How deep should i be fishing relative to the depth of the lake if I'm just trying to catch gills or anything for that matter? I usually go where the other fisherman are or I try to find where the most holes have been drilled. Is that a good policy?

Before I get to your questions I want to stress to you what me and "sea nympho" have said and that is: GET A DEPTH MAP OF THE LAKE FIRST

NO it is not a bad Idea to start where others are it will help you either way wether the place is bad fishing or good fishing first start by finding all these so called HOT SPOTS and mark them on your map and then fish them as much as possible and (if there are allot of hot spots you should try the ones that are most opposite(meaning sharp drop of V.S. shallow drop offs or diffrent structures such as dead heads or sandy bottom, Holes V.S. humps) so that you can find what extremes hold good fish) if you do good fishing make note of the time of day wether it be morning or toward dusk and yes these are not bad places to fish but if you really want to keep catching fish then you need to get away from the pressure of other fisherman and find your own place and you do that by finding that one so called HOT SPOT where allot of people fish and you do pretty good and then THE DEPTH CHART MAP WILL COMIN HANDY so now you just need to look at that spot where you caught a few real nice ones (with all the other fisherman) and find a very similar spot on the lake with no one near it and there you go........BINGO, you will have your own little hot spot to your self. This will help you out if you take the time and fish that one lake for as much as you can and by late ice you should be pulling them in left and right. (just watch out for all the lurkers cause YOUR HOT SPOT MIGHT TURN INTO EVERYONES HOT SPOT :yikes: .

GOOD LUCK

If I drill a few holes and don't catch anything how long should I stay there? When I decide to move how far should I go? How deep should i be fishing relative to the depth of the lake if I'm just trying to catch gills or anything for that matter?

I forgot about these questions :lol:

"RUN AND GUN" works the best for gills so drill about 10 holes in a line from deep to shallow (but not too deep or not to shallow go from no less than 5 fow to no deeper than 20fow) and then fish them each for about 5 to 10 minutes and move on to the next and once you find a depth that is working drill a few more holes about 8ft around the hot depth.

When I decide to move how far should I go?
Don't move very far because you are trying to find out why people are fishing that area (read the top paragraph) wether it is good or not you will only find out with time. BE PATIENT :smile-mad

[Ice Crusher]

Which is better the vexilar or the x67? Do both work year-round?

[DaveW731]

Sea Nympho and Pinksteel hit the most important points, IMO, but there still may be a couple of tactical issues to consider. I don't have electronics either, so I end up doing a lot of experimenting, in order to locate fish and refine tactics. In particular, I look at oxygen/suspending fish, bait size/style and presentation.
Oxygen: Fish may suspend higher than you think. Without electronics, it is easy to fish below the fish. This is especially true as the winter goes on and the oxygen level goes down. The most oxygen is right under the ice and the fish will follow it up, as it depletes further down. This is especially important in early freezes (like this year) and in shallow, muck-bottom lakes, less of an issue in deep, cold gravel/sand lakes. Last time I was out I caught my biggest gills 4 ft down in 15 fow.
Bait size/style: If nothing is biting, smaller is better. For panfish, my standard sizes are #10 or #12 and if nothing is happening, I will switch to a #14. Also, sometimes verticle (teardrop) or horizontal (jig) style will work better. Take both waxies and spikes. For pike, same principle: take along a couple walleye-size minnows and see what happens.
Presentation: Is it possible you are missing subtle bites? Have you tried tightlining with hi-vis line? Another tactic I like is to get the smallest Thill bobbers and suspend a teardrop below them that is just big enough to SLOWLY sink the bobber. As it drifts down, I lift it SLIGHTLY then follow it down on a semi-slack line. If a fish sucks in the bait, the bobber stops falling. If a fish hits it, it drops faster. I use 3/4# line for this approach.
Maybe there is nothing new here, but hope it helps. Good luck!

[muddman55]

any sonar will help. i'm a vex man but buy whatever you can afford. i won't be part of THAT argument. haven't kept any fish from sleepy in several years but always catch tons of 6" and under gills. pm me if you plan to head out that way and I'll try to help you out. Don

[PINKSTEEL]

Which is better the vexilar or the x67? Do both work year-round?

Sorry I don't know much about the vexes exept that they work great in the winter but they can be a pain in the summer. I do know that x67c are made for both the summer and winter so YES the Lowrance is great for the summer. One thing is for sure and that is that any Sonar will help you out a ton.

[swampbuck]

get a map and fish the structure try different baits. You dont need electronics, people have been catching fish for hundreds of years.

[Chad Smith]

Anybody have any suggestions on where or how to catch fish around here? I'll settle for anything.

If you dont have a Sportsmans Connection lake map book, you should get one, they are very helpful in showing structure. I recommend getting the book and focusing on a smaller lake and fishing the drop offs, flats, depressions, saddles any kind of structure. Also notice where the crowd is fishing and try to find that spot on the map, most of the time it will be some sort of structure. Its well worth the $20. I study maps before I even go out, sometimes I scan the map and print out a copy to take with me.

Good luck.

[mso795]

There are good deals on reconditioned Vexilars available. They come with the same 2 year warranty and you can buy 2 more years for $20
http://www.vexilar.com/pages/products/products_outlet.html

[kcarlson]

Light line!
Panfish nothing more than 2# test
Use a small barrel swival up about 18" from your jig / hook
Go to lakes with a reputation for great fishing.
Good flasher/graph sonar.
Spend 100hrs a week on this site:lol:.

[Ice Crusher]

I just bought the Vex fl8 pro series for $300. I looked at the x67c it was $250 but to use for ice fishing you need the icemachine upgrade making total cost around$310 or so. I called lowrance they said the l.e.d. screen is only good to -4 degrees anything colder and it can shatter. I cant wait to try it but I'm a little worried about the ice, it's 60 degrees out. Is it safe? yesterday there was at least 10 inches but today there is a lot of standing water. Not sure how quick it melts or if the ice can still brake even if it's thick in this kind of warmth.

[tommy-n]

good choice on your purchase, if you have any questions there's alot of guys that will help you out.

[PINKSTEEL]

I just bought the Vex fl8 pro series for $300. I looked at the x67c it was $250 but to use for ice fishing you need the icemachine upgrade making total cost around$310 or so. I called lowrance they said the l.e.d. screen is only good to -4 degrees anything colder and it can shatter. I cant wait to try it but I'm a little worried about the ice, it's 60 degrees out. Is it safe? yesterday there was at least 10 inches but today there is a lot of standing water. Not sure how quick it melts or if the ice can still brake even if it's thick in this kind of warmth.

I would have spent the extra $10 on the Lowrance but I have never heard of anything bad about the VEX so I'm sure you will love it and any sonar will help you so with that said, NICE JOB ON GETTING A SONAR :D

But you still NEED to get some LAKE MAPS

HERE ARE A FEW PLACES

This site is a free one:
http://www.fishweb.com/recreation/fishing/lakes/index.html

You can buy these in Walmart:
http://www.sportsmansconnection.com/maps/

I like this one allot because you can look at every spot on the lake and see GPS cordinates:
http://mapcard.com/ (they sell the cards on ebay for way less than the $20 that the site wants you to pay, I got mine for $4)

[Ice Crusher]

Well, what do you know. There actually are fish on that lake. I only caught a few but we were only there for an hour or so. The ice was fine even with the warm temps. I definately marked fish and got plenty of bites in those spots. i can't wait to put some time in with the new toy and get the hang of reading it. Thanks for the advice.

[RDS-1025]

Good job Ice Crusher on the Vex and the fish. You will love the Vex. sea nympho and PINKSTEEL both had great posts for you and I would agree that maps are THE best investment you can make. Lets hope you get some more ice time this year.

[DocHoliday]

I just bought the Vex fl8 pro series for $300. I looked at the x67c it was $250 but to use for ice fishing you need the icemachine upgrade making total cost around$310 or so. I called lowrance they said the l.e.d. screen is only good to -4 degrees anything colder and it can shatter. I cant wait to try it but I'm a little worried about the ice, it's 60 degrees out. Is it safe? yesterday there was at least 10 inches but today there is a lot of standing water. Not sure how quick it melts or if the ice can still brake even if it's thick in this kind of warmth.

You will like your vex. Spend some time and get to know it. I have the fl-8 as well and it is amazing what you can see is going on down there with it. Things like missing bait not on your hook anymore. Tangled lines on the hooks. Is the jigging technique you are using drawing fish closer or are they moving away or just don't want that particular bait. Does the bottom have weeds and soft, or is it hard with rocks. With time and practice you will be able to tell these things and more. ;)

[sea nympho]

Which is better the vexilar or the x67? Do both work year-round?

I just bought the Vex fl8 pro series for $300. I looked at the x67c it was $250 but to use for ice fishing you need the icemachine upgrade making total cost around$310 or so.


First, there are more choices than that. ;)

But congrats on the new purchase! :)I owned a VEXfl8, it worked fine. I sold it to get a E522 that now does everything.

If you plan on using this unit year round, the decision is already made for you...GET A GRAPH. Flashers ARE NOT as useful on soft water. Flahsers have a great interface, like a cb radio...turn it on, adjudst the 'squelch', & you're done...but it's that very nature that limits it's usefullness.

If you want to make one investment that will suit & cover ALL your sonar needs, consider a COMBO SONAR/GPS unit like the Lowrance 522, or the newer HDS, or a HumminBird. I have an Eagle 502, it's like the 522 minus some features (flasher, voltmeter...) I lvoe it, it works great. I got it and a map chart sd card for it...all for well under $500 new.

FREE CONTOUR MAPS HERE:http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-30301_31431_32340---,00.html


No need for the expensive LEI "ice machine upgrade", this is the unit & transducer outta my boat, the rest is from scraps I found laying around. Even has a 'hard case' (5ga bucket! lol!) :

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/nsrf.jpg

[DocHoliday]

First, there are more choices than that. ;)

But congrats on the new purchase! :)I owned a VEXfl8, it worked fine. I sold it to get a E522 that now does everything.

If you plan on using this unit year round, the decision is already made for you...GET A GRAPH. Flashers ARE NOT as useful on soft water. Flahsers have a great interface, like a cb radio...turn it on, adjudst the 'squelch', & you're done...but it's that very nature that limits it's usefullness.

If you want to make one investment that will suit & cover ALL your sonar needs, consider a COMBO SONAR/GPS unit like the Lowrance 522, or the newer HDS, or a HumminBird. I have an Eagle 502, it's like the 522 minus some features (flasher, voltmeter...) I lvoe it, it works great. I got it and a map chart sd card for it...all for well under $500 new.

I've got a newer lowrance lcd sonar/gps that I was using for a while but when the temps get down below 10 degrees the screen blanks out. The owners manual said don't use it when it is real cold or the display may get damaged. Sea Nympho are you haveing that problem with yours? That was the reason I bought my vex. But during the open water season I wouldn't have anything but my lowrance with the lake master chip.

[sea nympho]

I've got a newer lowrance lcd sonar/gps that I was using for a while but when the temps get down below 10 degrees the screen blanks out. The owners manual said don't use it when it is real cold or the display may get damaged. Sea Nympho are you haveing that problem with yours? That was the reason I bought my vex. But during the open water season I wouldn't have anything but my lowrance with the lake master chip.

Mine's a COLOR TFT unit, same as x67, 522, etc... No prob's so far.

MY old z5000-LCD wouldn't blank-out, it'd just slow way down & need full batteries. Try using it w/ the lights ON, it helps generate a little heat.;)

Bet your VEX works better the colder it gets, mine did! :lol:

[METTLEFISH]

You think it is bad now !... wait a year, after the 3 line rule takes place on inland waters this April there will be even less adult fish to be harvested. The fish have no chance with the electronics and micro lines available today. Up until the the late 1940's or so there were more restrictions on pan fish harvest, the season closed form April 1 until July 1. Nowadays I have more fun making my own baits, rods, and such. The adult fish are almost non existant in some / most lakes in the southern Mi. Area, and I have access to waters most dont. I would think that years of selecting larger adults and throwing back smaller adults has led to genetic down sizing.

[MnSportsmanBro]

Give us an update. How have you been doing? Have you tried the Thill bobber approach, or how about spring bobbers? I think my brother told me you can make spring bobbers out of the springs from old ball point pens, but they're pretty cheap at Walmart and Meijer nowadays. My father never liked tipups or bobbers much, but preferred to hold and jig. Told me that the most important thing was "learn to hold your mouth right, kid!" (more than "fish the bottom structure" and "follow the oxygen in the column"). I finally figured out that holding my mouth right meant concentrating my attention on what was going on with the line tension = light mouth action that even a bobber might not detect. But fill us in. Did the electronics help at all? -J

[blutoe]

ice crusher if you are interested pm me ill take ya with or without a depth finder just need to fish shallow i got a good spot ben getten them all winter. the lakes arnt far from you.n doesent matterr what depth finder you use. i have a vex i can show you whats up with it. budy has a lowrance i out fish him alot dosent have any thing to do with depth finder lots of other things to consiter...........john